After an agonizing time trying to get the fine details with an 00 brush I looked over at my wife’s set of fine sharpie markers and thought, “Hmmmm.” I actually thought I stumbled onto something new until I did a forum search and realized I am way behind the times when it comes to using sharpie markers for fine detailing.
Yes sir,just be sure to seal them for filtering and weathering or they could be affected.
With due respect to Tojo’s comment, I don’t like them at all. Even with sealing, which can run them by itself, they can run on the finish. My experience is that Future will run them.
They also are not black, more of a kind of purple.
There are good alternatives.
Good to know. Thanks for the tip.
Sharpie markers and model kits?! YIKES! I’ve seen too many perfectly built kits gone to hell in a handbasket when the builders used sharpie markers. There are paint markers that may be safe though. But regular sharpie markers… don’t use them!
Sharpie makes “oil” based markers that are safe to use with enamels otherwise the regular Sharpie will bleed thru the paint. I bought a couple at Michaels and they are a bit more than the regular ones.
I have heard of Tojo’s method and it may in fact work but IMO, I rather go with the oil based ones.
Lil’ tiny summbitches all done the windscreens with the .005 micron ink pen.
My experience with them is mixed…black tends to turn to purple…I limit them to the smallest of details where dark purple passes for black…
[snStpd]…+1 for the micron pens.
I’ve tried others, only to have them turn blue, purple or greens, over time.
The micron pens are also great for making streaks…just touch a spot and run your finger across it to streak it out. (practice on some scrap first!)
I’ve come across some that are actually fine tipped brushes.
Some stock car and street car builders use sharpies to black the trim on windows. Goes on the inside so paint runs aren’t an issue.
I use sharpie markers to color monofilament thread, for antennas, and rigging for ships and biplanes.
Also, I can get interesting metal-like patinas with them, using them very lightly, similar to dry brushing. On chrome plated parts, ones can apply a thin coating of red, and one of blue, on chrome exhaust stacks to represent oxidation colors. A little daub, then rubbing with q-tips, easy does it.
I’ve only ever use Sharpie markers while modeling for one thing; my CF-18 Hornet gear door edges.
I experimented with a red Sharpie to do the edges of the gear doors and a CF-18 Hornet I built. I built and painted the model in its entirety, including gloss dull coat of the gear doors. I then used a fine tip red Sharpie to do the door edges. After the decals were applied, I sealed them with dull coat and then applied the gear doors and other fiddly bits to finish the model.
I’ve also used my wife’s Folk Art red, water based, craft paint for gear door edges on another Hornet using the same technique as noted above. I prefer the Folk Art paint. It looks better to my eye.
Mike
I was just a locaal hobby store where a guy showed me a liquid Gundam marker that had the same capillary properties as using a brush to do as pinwash. It was pretty slick and of course they were sold out.
Good tip! Have to check that out.
I googled Gundam markers and they look promising.
I like using Sharpie Markers for that nice feeling you get when they’re too close to your nose for an extended period if time…
[:D] “You’re getting sleepy…sleepy…sleepy”
Eric, you made me laugh! Hey, I had a student during my student teaching semester way back in 1998 who was about as sharp as a box of hammers. I was walking around the class one fine morning while the students worked on some assignment. This kid had a Sharpie stuck up to his nose and already had a glazed-over look. I mean, he didn’t need much help to get that way, but with the Sharpie, he was on his way! Thanks brother! [B]
Gary
I remember reading build articles, where they used Gundam markers. This was back in the late 90’s. I never could find any…looking for a substitute is how I stumbled on the Micron pens.