Krylon Gloss Coat Mini-Review

One of my favorite things about modeling forums is learning all the useful tips and tricks associated with using everyday household items that are not traditionally thought of as modeling supplies. Sometimes following these tips can be disastrous, or disappointing at best; however, sometimes you hit gold. That is just what I thought had happened when I discovered Future floor polish, but recently I’ve been disappointed. I’m not going to go into the usual “did the formula change affect it’s properties” debate. Instead, I’m going to give you a mini-review of a product I decided to try just for giggles that I am now head-over-heels in love with.

This would be Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss Acrylic Coating (1303).

On a recent Michael’s trip with my better half I couldn’t really find anything to use my 40% coupon on. I obviously couldn’t let it go to waste, so I grabbed a can of this stuff. For around $4 it wouldn’t kill me to try it. I must say that I didn’t hold much hope because, having followed forum advice, I had used some Krylon primer and found myself disappointed. The primer is actually a good product and works well; however, even with thin coats applied sparingly the finish ends up grainy. This really isn’t always a problem because ideally you would want to do some light sanding following primer anyway. When I used it on a 1/48 Spitfire things went fine since I could sand it down adequately. However, doing so on a Panzer IV isn’t as easy given all the nooks and crannies, and even after several overcoats of hobby paint the finish was just rough.

I wasn’t going to just spray this stuff untested onto a good model and hope for the best. Fortunately, my garage is full of kits that just went wrong somehow or another, so I grabbed one for some testing. I sprayed three light coats over a 1/48 Hasegawa P-40. I allowed an hour or so of drying time between each coat. A day or so later I remembered this experiment and went to the garage to see if the stuff was going to prove to be too thick or not. I was amazed to find just how glass-like the finish was, but was even more amazed that the panel lines and rivets were not filled in near enough for me to tell any difference. This is vitally important when you’re planning washes, so I was thrilled. I decided to move to some further testing.

My problem with Future has been a whitish hazing or fogging of my finish when exposed to both Walmart brand white spirit and Turpenoid. I’ve eliminated all other variables by trying different paints etc. and continue to have the problem even with Future having weeks to dry. To test the Krylon I heavily brushed white spirit on the top of one wing and Turpenoid on top of the other wing (both of which had been painted with Tamyia acrylics). I then used a paper towel and wiped away the liquids from one half of the wing surfaces just as you would when doing filters etc. I left the inner portions of the wings with very unrealistically liberal amounts of each liquid pooled on them and promptly left the house for several hours of holiday shopping. When I returned home there was no ill effects to the paint or the gloss coat. At this point I know the stuff is safe for use with my preferred thinners for weathering. What about decals?

The last round of “testing” I did was to apply some spare decals with my solutions of choice: Micro Set and Sol. Again, no I’ll effect with leaving the stuff pooled on the surface. I didn’t even have the sometimes alarming, but totally fixable hazing caused by these liquids. The decals sat down and sucked into surface details just as you would expect them to do.

In conclusion I would just like to say that my whole intent is to share with fellow modelers a product they may be interested in trying to help them reach the goals they set for themselves. I am not at all suggesting that using whatever product you may be accustomed to is wrong or ineffective. Some of you may very well be like me and live in an area where there aren’t any decent brick and mortar hobby shops to buy model dedicated items. It’s nice to know you can walk in a Walmart on any corner and buy something like this you can use if you don’t want to have to trek to your LHS or make an online purchase. I thank all of those who take the time to read this, and I surely hope it helps you in the future. My future is pretty Futureless.

Some demo shots:

I’ve used their matte and satin for years. Works best when warmed up. Great review, Thanks.

I have also used the Krylon acrylic gloss coat and semi matt (I won’t use anything but Testors dullcoat for a dull finish). One thing I have learned with the Krylon acrylics is that you must indeed shake the can for at LEAST the recommended time. I figured, hey, there is no pigment in here, why do I have to shake it for very long. But I found I would get tiny bubbles and a slightly frosty appearance if I did not shake for at least 60 seconds!

guys, can you give me an idea of any odor that the Krylon clears give off?

I am in a position here whereby I can actually NOT have any “paint smell” from chemicals in the house

great mini-article Jimmy, you explain almost everything a person needs to know in order to decide whether to use the Krylon or not

as far as the smell goes,it can have some fragrance, Future has one and is okay,but, it can’t be “industrial” as in DullCote or Model Master Enamel paints, etc

I am in the midst of two searches,a clear that is real paint, but safe for indoor use, like Alclad Aqua, and a primer that is Acrylic, but, still sticks well to plastic

I am just about to try to use an Acrylic clear as my primer, if I can find one that adheres well enough to bare plastic

Thanks Jimmy, for the great review.

Thanks, Don for the advisory on the shaking time. All extremely useful.

Rex, the smell isn’t all that bad. Honestly, I didn’t think to really take note of the fumes since I sprayed in my open garage with a mask on (I was spraying regular Krylon paint as well). This gloss coat is acrylic so my assumption is that there shouldn’t be much toxic stuff in there, but I could be wrong. I’ll go test some in a bit and make a point to smell it.

lol, thanks Jimmy

I am laughing because I just got an “audible image”

“no, I am NOT huffing,I am just smelling the fumes for Tarn’s fiancee’s health”

what a hobby, eh?

Yup…I am keenly aware of your situation with the little lady, so I am going to “huff” it when I get home for your. I just don’t know how helpful it will be. I don’t know how good a judge of what is acceptable for you two I can be. My wife just recently convinced me to use a respirator when painting. Lol. In young(ish) and stupid…I just don’t give much thought to health concerns with modeling products. Except when I sucked a mouthful of Tenex through my touch-n-flow. But let’s not discuss that!!

Rofl… Tenax Poisioning - Is that why your handle is Proffessor death? [+o(]

I find Future a little pungent, but use a mask if spraying. I’ve also just bought some Extra-Acrylics Satin Varnish from Hannants at Telford IPMS Nats, but haven’t used it yet.

With regards to Primers, Vallejo colo(u)red Polyurethane (Acrylic) primer is good for just before topcoat priming, but doesn’t take hard sanding/kit-bashing too well. Their Olive Drab primer I just use as a topcoat for us armor(!)

Other primers are available, of course.

One guy I know uses Tamiya black acrylic cut with cellulose/lacquer & this dries very quickly & is tough as boots, but stinks, I’ve seen this demo’d at the hobby club, but haven’t tried this myself (yet)

I use Halfords’ (UK motor-factors) rattle-can Grey or White Acrylic primer, very tough, takes a lot of abuse & sanding, & sticks like the proverbial.

It’s about the only thing I have found that will actually stick to the horrible crud that FM uses instead of plastic, but it does have that cellulose/lacquer stink.

I spray this outside… & I live alone! [:O]

Rex, I’m afraid I can’t in good conscience recommend this stuff for you if you need to spray it inside. The stuff does have a definite smell while spraying. A lot of particles hit the air around the spray environment that would be toxic to breath. Now it isn’t like enamel where the object you’ve painted reeks for a good while. If you spray a model outside it should be ok to bring into the house after a couple of minutes. However, the label does warn if solvents, toxic fumes and possible health risks. Hope this is in some way helpful.

thanks Jimmy

it is very helpful, I can run outside and try the stuff, then bring the model in to finish drying in the clear plastic box

the deal right now is that even if I take a model out to use enamel or lacquer coats,I can’t ever open it indoors to check it for “finished fuming” status

with this stuff, I might have a chance

so, I will give it a try

thanks for your efforts,and Happy Thanksgiving

Rex and Anne

Great review! I have a can I use to coat sketches on canvas, but I never thought about using it for modeling. One question, can I use this specifically for a primer coat? I wonder how well it sticks to the subsequent paint layers as I’ve had issue with paint peeling when I don’t use a good coat of primer.

Thanks!

Rex, I hope you and Anne had a lovely holiday. I’ve been super busy, so I’ve just been ducking in here and there. I do believe you will be ok spraying outside and moving inside to dry; especially if you deal it in a box or Rubbermaid or something. It doesn’t seem to gas off like enamel. I’m not really that acquainted with enamels though. I used the little square Testors stuff as a kid but when I started building “for real” and airbrushing I just began with acrylics. So, I’m not all that up to speed on their properties and characteristics, but I just don’t believe this stuff is as toxic. If you’ve got a Micahels or Hobby Lobby around you can get a can for 40 (or sometimes 50 at Michael’s) percent off. So it’s not a real big loss trying it even if you end up not being able to use.

Hogan, I’ve heard of people using clear coats as a primer but I’ve not tried it. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, but I think the Matte would probably be a better idea.

One thing I’d like to add since I’ve used this stuff is that even after drying for a number of days this stuff is pretty sticky to the touch. It will grab lint or plastic “sand” left on the bench. Also, I don’t really like the way an oil wash behaves on the surface. It really doesn’t move around as well as it does on other gloss coats. I don’t know why this is the case, but I generally do washes after a clear flat anyway. I don’t find it that hard to get a pin wash to run in panel lines, and I don’t really like sludge washes, so no worries for my usage.

Also, as a side effect of the stickiness (I’m assuming) pastels are not as easily removable. I began using some ground up black pastel to highlight panel lines. I dabbed the pastel on with a brush along lines and then used a wide brush to rake along the direction of windflow. I noticed the powder wasn’t spreading as good as usual. I was getting good streaks and staining, but the very visable (and artificial looking) lines were still present. I took a damp towel and tried the same method, and while I was able to get an acceptable result, I came to the realization that any powder put on the surface with any real force is going to leave some powder that won’t be removable. This actually could be a plus if you are very caferfull and deliberate, but you can’t slop the stuff on with the impression it will wash off; all of it won’t. Again, I can easily do my pastels on a flat coat, I just had a rare 30 minute sit at the bench over this weekend from Hades and wanted to do something quick. After doing the upper surfaces of the wings I flat coated and will do the rest that way.

Black Friday saw me getting a 3 gallon compressor from Home Depot on the cheap, so sometime after Thursday I plan to test decanting and airbrushing this stuff per request at another site. I’ll be updating my results for anyone interested.

congrats on the new paint blower,if you need any info on how to make your own “Lowe’s parts” regulator and moisture trap,I will upload a pic of the one I made at Lowe’s

I use a Campbell-Hausfeld (sp) from Lowe’s to squish the air and paint mixture all over my house, shoes and flannel shirts, also

glad you got a little modeling time in, here and there,I didn’t, just a little bit of computer reading time,but, the days will be almost uninterrupted now until Christmas,so, I might get some testing time in again

I hope so, my plan is to try and be ready for Jan 2nd, to run with this new acrylic deal and get back to the build rate I had in the old days

the little lady (ex-staff sergeant Anne) said to specifically thank you for the holiday wishes, to reciprocate them to you and your’s,and to thank you for your discussions of paints and coverings, you and about five others are literally saving my hobby as a model builder with your posts, emails, pm’s, etc

if you ever need an Acrylic color match, just ask me, I will show you what I came up with in my search for the new colors,over 200 matches,I can lay them next to ILLIAD chip sheets, FS 595A 1969, etc,but, I only did the USN/USMC colors, any USAF colors would only be by coincidence

since “red-brown” costs the same as “red-brown”,there is no need for you to get a “wrong bottle”,someone already did that,believe me, lol

Rex, many thanks to Anne for the warm wishes and the same to you guys too. I’m excited about the upcoming weekend. The wife and kids are going out of town Thursday with the grandparents until next Tuesday. Don’t get me wrong, I am going to miss the heck out of them, but I’m going to be living at the bench. I’ve got my kitty (F-14) begging me for attention.

RE: the compressor…I popped the regulator/moisture trap from my dead compressor to the new one. I was hoping a 3 gallon tank wouldn’t need to refill too often because I was worried about how dang loud the thing is. I dunno…I guess it isn’t too bad. I sprayed the whole A-10 and it took about 60lbs of the 100 tank limit. I think I’m going to have to set something up in the garage because the kitchen counter may not be realistic for me to brush at certain time. It gets darn hot in there in the Houston summers though.

You know, one thing I think you could help me with is building up a paint inventory for some upcoming Navy builds. I’ve been really drawn to F-14s, 4s, A-4s etc. I am obviously going to pick up the Academy F-4, and likely the Kinetic/Italeri Prowler too.

A list of the necessary FS numbers for the low and hi-vis schemes would be awesome. If you could give me those and, of course, recommend which acrylic offerings out there are the best match I’d be forever grateful. I sometimes get overwhelmed trying to determine what paints I need for exterior colors because of my sheer ignorance. I don’t know if I ever pointed it out in some of the other places we’ve engaged in the color debate, but I actually do want to have as close to the correct main body colors and do stress when trying to find them. I don’t know, mind you, that Gull Grey by Vallejo is more accurate that the offering by Model Master…just that I need Gull Grey lol. I was scouring the internet for weeks trying to determine what colors I needed for my A-10. It’s when detail painting certain areas that “close enough” is my mantra.

cool, Jimmy

that era is the main focus of my collection,so, in my travels I have “best”, “almost good if on sale” ,and “who the He@#$# typed THIS paint into their matching website?”, lol

give me a couple of days, and I will type up the FS # and 2 Acrylic options for each color for about 1970 fleet units in Light Gull Gray over White, with all the trim colors

every paint color is matched to 1969 FS 595A, the standard in place during the Vietnam era

Jimmy, I am actually in the process of adding “CAG’s Navair Colors” to my list of websites, my plan is to photograph each paint color chip that I like (or don’t like) next to the matching 595A chip, so that a modeler can actually see how close the match is, instead of just reading the results of my opinions

up until now, everyone is either using scans from FS and then telling us what matches, or just giving lists of matches, some sites just give the data given by the paint companies,great for planned matches, not so great for actual matches

my plan is to let each viewer decide if I matched close enough,and it gives each modeler a way to get a “usable chip” for each color,he sees the paint match, likes it, then buys that bottle of paint,he can make his chip from the bottle for his reference,and then go ahead and use the bottle for a model, basically it is the same as getting free FS chips, one paint at a time

I have the Navair Colors closer to being ready than the Navair Notes,so, I think I will start there

Good review! Thanks for sharing it!

Yea thanks Prof, appreciate the time you put into it, and it will be well worth an experiment.