Stephan- I added your planes to the list.
Mike- OK, maybe I am a lil’ chicken! Here’s my idea of rigging:
No wonder the DVIII is my favorite WWI aircraft. [8-]
Frank, why don’t you pick up the Smer 504K and we can build it together (or go insane) [:D]
Roy
What rigging? Ooooops…never mind. I found it. [;)]
Roy and Mike-
LOL- you guys are a hoot! Just looking at that 504K kit gives me the heebie jeebies. Roy, you are a braver soul than I, my friend!
Mike- OK, so the rigging is a tad on the non existent side. [:-^]
Well, looks like I goofed!! Oh well. I think I’ll make it, though. Maybe I’ll do the Albatross now, and wait til October to do the DR I. Frank, just add both to my list, and I’ll do one of them! HA! Sorry, buddy.
Wyoroy–
Thanks! Glad you like the sound!
Also-- I saw over on Hyperscale that Vector out of Moscow is now producing a 1/48 Mercedes DIII/DIIIa resin engine, and boy does it look nice!!
It sure would look nice in my Albatross…
NP buddy, I put them both on for ya.
They can usually be found at Buffy’s Best.com or alternately the Pavlka resin Mercedes (180 -200hp) is very nice. Hi-Tech has just re-released their version of 180hp. Most of the early Albatros D.III type had the 170hp Mercedes. The late models (OAW) types seemd to all have the 180hp Mercedes. You will find unless you want to open up the cowling panels, you won’t see much except the cylinder heads.
The immediate visual difference in the early Mercedes 160 hp D.III / 170 hp D.IIIa and its progeny the 180hp D.IIIaü is the rocker springs exposed above the cylinder jacket heads. On the early D.III and D.IIIa motors the rocker springs are centered on the sides of the rocker box covers. On the D.IIIaü motor the springs are located on the forward leading edge of the same covers. The rest is below the cowling and not readily visible. Several good manufacturers ( specifically ‘Roden’) note the difference and have two distinct castings. The Mercedes 160hp was outclassed by 1917. The Mercedes D.IIIaü 180hp was the standard engine in the Albatros D.III (OAW), V & Va starting in late 1917 through 1918. Many, many Mercedes D. III and IIIa type motors were rebuilt to the D.IIIaü specs at the airparks as the war progressed. That is why some captured examples had motors with the i.d. designation of 160hp D.III cast into their crankcases. This has caused the misconception that the standard 160hp and 170 hp were used in 1918 at a time when the original motors had become obsolete.
Just cruising through the previous pages I picked up on darson’s interest in the Eduard Weekend kit #8426 Nieuport 16. I happen to know of some plugger that did a review on the kit. Some people seem to like it. I hope it helps. Model On!
http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=2590
This build will deal with the Planet Models kit. As it is mostly resin these parts will be referred to as RP. Additional resin parts are referred to as PX. Though the instructions clearly label them as photoetch the PX items are in fact resin. Originally the parts marked PX were supposed to be white metal.
This details the assembly of the 260hp Mercedes D.IVa inline six motor. On the basic motor ( RP 34 ) water jackets covering the cylinders should be painted a “blued gun metal” color. The crank housing would be a bare aluminum color. Note the rectangular plate on the back of the motor is supposed fit over the etch rectangle on the face of the fuselage former (RP 22.) NOTE!!! This is the key that helps you set the engine at the correct attitude. It will be canted to the pilot’s right. Don’t be alarmed. It was like that on the original airframes, I kid you not. The overhead cam & rockers on the cylinder tops will be steel and aluminum tinged with a black wash or painted black. The air induction pipes ( RP 32 & 27 ) appear to be copper based items. The twin magnetos and tower assembly will need to be scratchbuilt and will be aluminum with a black wash and fitted behind the rear cylinder. Later you will find that the engine cowlings don’t really permit a view to the crankcase. Use fine wire to add small sections to each side of the cylinders and paint to represent spark plug wires.
Hey, I know that guy!!! [swg]
Stephen,
THanks for the tip. I just received “Albatros D.III(OEF)” by P.M. Grosz. Its a great source of information on those planes. Thanks again !! Now its time to digg through it [:)]
Greg
Hey GZT–
Looks like you and I are building the same kit/plane.
Are you building straight OOB? Going to detail it up?
Hi Drummy !
I got an Eduard kit of D.III - and I plan to convert it to OEF version 253. This one used Austro Daimpler engines - 225 HP. I just got a book on OEF Albatros - plans for 1/72 and 1/48 scale. I know that I have plenty of reading before I will start building this bird [:)] and I will be more than happy if I can share it with you - if you are interested in OEF version, if not I will share my findings anyway [:)]
At this moment I am not sure what aftermarket parts I can get - its Eduard kit anyway - so some PE parts are included, masks etc.
Greg
Eduard has whole large aftermarket fret of PE for the Albtros D.III (****#48217) set.
Yeah- my kit came without any PE parts-- all plastic.
I’d love to hear more about your a/c. I know that I’m doing one of the early versions of the DIII, though. I think that I’m going to build Richtofen’s D.III and Fokker D.I.
I AM going to get that Eduard PE set for it, though, as soon as the cash comes rolling in.
I’ve got to calm the model accessories buying a little bit…whew. Sometimes one just gets carried away…
Check this out–stunning work.
Thanks for that link! Awesome aircraft, and the woodgrain looks sooooo realistic!
Lucky you…I cant even see the bar, it?s so F***ing far away....but we are ale going to (hopefully) learn from this exirence so Ill try my best:D:D
Greetings MrDrummy:
As ruddratt has discovered I have kit reviews on my website BUT The older out of production kits are usually no longer offered as downloads. While they are all still available on CD’s My stuff is aimed at helping the average modeler who has little or no knowledge about WWI aviation.
That said Here is a list of what I did to “improve” the basic Eduard Albatros kit #8017.
1. a Copper State Models resin pilot,
2. an extra radiator facade and
3. some instrument switches from Eduard’s aftermarket set,
4. a couple of cut and shaped brass rods plumbing to the radiator,
5. some motor wiring,
6. scratchbuilt fuel cell (Upper half only),
7. monofilament rigging,
8. the four control horns for the elevator
9. landing gear legs and axle parts are cut and shaped brass rod.
10. Grandt line hex head nuts for the strut tie - in’s on the top wing,
11. Cabane struts are cut and shaped brass rod, 4 pieces per side,
12. photoetch Spandau machine gun jackets, end caps, gun sights and etc.
THE MOST IMPORTANT MODIFICATIONS TO THIS KIT ARE,
". . .Step 3.) Remove the forward plastic locator pin in the lower wings (B2&3) and have a brass pin/ rod inserted into predrilled holes through both sides of the fuselage with corresponding holes in the lower wings. Leave the rear plastic pins intact. This provides a rigid structure to hang the wings from.
While in the area there is a vertically scribed line between the forward engine compartment vent and the rear edge of the cowling ring. It needs to be filled and sanded smooth. Lay common masking tape over the details you want to save and then sand and fill with gap filling “Super Glue” cynoacrylate. . ."
Trapping the axle bar ends in the lower end of the landing gear per the original. Wrap upholstery thread around the langing gear legs above the axle. See photo images or your references.
I have a list I can recommend.
Hey Stephen–
Well, after reading your list, it does look like I’ve got a few things to get before I get going on this aircraft! I think that a lot of the things will be taken care of when I get the Eduard photoetch set, such as the guns, the radiator, and instrument switches. I’ve got the monofilament already in the drawer.
Here are a couple of questions:
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Can you actually see the wiring once the engine is mounted?
-
I’m guessing that the brass rod through the wings and fuselage are for added strength. This seems like a pretty easy task. What guage of brass rod would you recommend?
I don’t want to get for free what you sell on CD, but at the point the model money is drying up!!