Finally wrapped up this puppy. This was the re-boxed (Pro Modeler) Dragon 1:48 kit. This was NOT a shake-n-bake project. It required actual modeling skill (so I ordered some skill from Squadron!), patience, and lots of dry-fitting, filling, smoothing. And a little planning. But at the end, it did produce a rather nice representation. I chose to apply a rather heavily weathered/chipped Eastern Front scheme.
do you take credit card? i’ll have 1 skill to go. That looks fantastic, that kit sits on the shelf at the hobby store i work at, and has done so for quite some time, good to see someone has had the guts to make it, Great job, thanks for sharing.
Alan
First, the “big” parts have no locator pins, so be mindful of your alignment while your glue sets. Second, I recommend assembling the canopy (3 pieces) as a unit before painting and installation. Third, the gondola assembly is a real peach, beware. Mask its windows first, THEN glue it in place. Fourth, the gear assemblies interfere slightly with the rear wheel opening (there’s a small bulkhead), you’ll need to notch them slightly to clear the gear assemblies. Fifth, the wings-to-fuselage are a tad wobbly and ambiguous, take care that the proper dihedral is maintained while the glue sets. Other items: If you want a secure attachment for the bombs, I recommend glueing plastic “tabs” between the bombs and the racks. The yellow decals are translucent (look at the “C” on mine), get aftermarket ones. On the wings, you have to attach the wingtips. This is perhaps the worst fitting part(s). Extra attention will be required here for a smooth, seamless fit (I did not do so well with mine, keep it under your hat!). Nacelles-to-wings will require some extra attention for a snug fit. The dive brakes have decals to continue the cross insignia from the wing. Forget the decals and just paint the insignias on the brakes, they’ll look nicer. The engraved lines on the fuselage halves don’t always line up with each half, or they’re crooked (look at the photo of the underside). Remember, this kit was made in China, so an hour later, you’ll want to build it again
I’ve built that kit a few times, and it’s one of my faves. The trick to the wingtips is to glue the tip halves to the wing halves, not themselves. Sand down their thickness before joining the wing halves.
If you choose to build another, check out the Eduard detail set. It’s one of their best (IMHO), and it really adds a lot (gunsights, ammo, seat supports, etc.)
Evenin’ All.
That is an awesome job, ModelNerd. I’m working on my fourth -88 and I agree with the points you’ve made. How did you do your wheels? You have them looking the way I’d like to get mine to look, but, it seems I’m still missing something.
Once again, extremely nice job!!
Hmmm. That actually would have made more sense, as I think about it. Would have been a bit easier to hide the seam. Oh well, lucky for me few people actually look UNDER a model parked on a shelf!
Build another? Build another?? You really DO wanna see me go to the funny farm, doncha?! [:D]
Thanx for the comments. The wheels were of course first glued together, then sanded smooth, all seams made invisible. Then they got an airbrush coat of Floquil Railroad Colors "Grimy Black (#F110013), this color is more of a dark gray. The hubs were then hand painted flat black. Silver “paint chips” were then added to the hubs. Then the real fun begins. Take your Dremel tool, clamp it in your bench vise. Stick a round toothpick into the wheel hub center, then stick the whole assembly in your Dremel chuck. Turn it on as slow as it will go (mine has a variable rheostat pot), load up your airbrush with some sand color or light dirt color, and squirt it onto the spinning wheel. So if your wheel is like the clock on your wall, and rotating clockwise, you’re standing at the 9 O’ Clock position, and you’re spraying at 12 O’Clock, at the top of your wheel. Build up the passes until you achieve the desired degree of dirt. Voila, she eez FAB-U-LOUS!