hi, I was wondering if i can replace the .35mm needle and tip in my hp cs airbrush and put in a .5mm nozzle and needle, the same one in iwata’s revolution airbrush. i want a bigger tip for general airbrushing and priming and it would be nice to not have to buy another airbrush.
Nathan
Yes. My HP-CS is packing one right now. Works great, and honestly I use it more than I do the .35mm (though I do pull that out for the detail work!)
Sweet! thanks doogs, so i take it i have to have both the .5mm needle and tip combination, not just the .5 tip?
Nathan
Yep, you have to have both. I mean, I guess you could use the .5 nozzle with the .35 needle, but it’d probably be a pretty wacky spray pattern.
Doog I don’t mean to call your response into question but are you sure about this? I have both the Revolution CR and the HP-CS and the needle in the CS is a smaller diameter than the CR. This means the needle bearing won’t allow the CR needle to go through.
Nathan- According to my instruction book for the HP-CS, you will need these three parts:
1 602 1 .5mm nozzle cap
1 604 1 .5mm nozzle
1 617 1 .5mm needle
Chuck
thanks chuck, i think i’v lost my instruction book already, maybe i should call iwata just to be sure before i spend the money.
Nathan
Nathan,
Here’s a scan of my Iwata manual from my HP-CS. Chuck’s right, you need part numbers 2, 4, and 17 on the diagram here.
Just scanned it in. Lucky for you I was rearranging my stash and all my old instruction manuals/decals…
Hope this helps.
Yes - my bad, the CS can use the .5mm gear out of the Eclipse BCS, as per all the parts listed below.
Thanks everyone for the quick responses! I got the parts ordered.
Nathan
I got all three parts for the 0.5 mm for less than $18 at Hobby Lobby. Where did you order yours?
I don’t feel that it is that much different from the 0.35 nozzle. It is still a very gentle airbrush that requires you to thin the paint adequately and spray in misty, multiple layers. I ended up not changing to 0.5 mm much.
Kustom coast airbrush- $22.50. they had the parts in stock. Thanks for the tip keilau, i’d thought id try it cause i have some bigger models coming up to paint and wanna see if it covers quicker, and i don’t feel like using rattle cans. How does your .35mm nozzle do on flat coats? Mine seems to clog up with acrylic flats real easy even with retarder.
Nathan
I use the Iwata CS with the 0.35 nozzle for most jobs and like the airbrush a lot. It is a very easy to use airbrush for a not very skillful modeler like me. I have to thin the acrylic a lot, usually 2 to 1 thinner to paint, and airbrush in misty, multiple layer coats to minimize tip dry. I stick with popular brand model acrylic and don’t use additional retarder. But I like the result from the CS much better than other “quick draw” type airbrush.
I work on 1:16 scale R/C armor occasionally and found the CS too gentle for larger areas. I got a Patriot 105 Fine with a 0.5 mm nozzle. It is much more forgiving in paint thinning and can dump paint for large area much faster. So I tried the CS by ordering the 0.5 mm nozzle parts. Well, it did not work out quite as I expected. The 0.5 mm CS works a lot more like the 0.35 mm CS than the Patriot.
Upon further examination, I found the 0.5 mm CS needle has a much longer taper (smaller linear flow angle) than the Patriot fine needle and, thus, the difference.
Thanks for the info, Keilau. Its good to learn about the differences in airbrushes, as i’m pretty new to them still. I’ll have to see how the new nozzle works in the cs, Maybe i might have to invest in a different airbrush in the future.
Nathan
Maybe it’s just the airbrushes I’ve been using, but I see a pretty significant difference between the .35 and .5. At full bore (which I never use for actually spraying anything), I’d guess the .5 can burn through its cup about 1.5x as fast, maybe a bit more.
I’ve also found it sprays better when you’re going for uniform coverage - clear coats, yellow wings and the like.