Installing Dragon tank tracks need advise (NOT the snap type)

All,

I’m building a Dragon 1:35 tank that is still using the regular glue on tracks.
The manual suggest me to build the lower hull, then the wheels, then the tracks, and finally put together to top and lower hull.

If I want to do this way; assemble the tracks last, do you guys think I will have a problem here ?
Thanks in advance.

Ben

which kit are you building Ben ? it all depends on the lower hull i usually measure out the long “runs” such as the top and bottom lay out a legnth of tape and use a straight edge such as a ruler to keep everything straight line up the legnth then glue the links and use it as link and legnth tracks or if you have a sewing fabric tape measure you can make the entire run then wrap it around the wheels with the tape still attached until the glue dries i used that technique on my DML ZSU 23-M Shilka

SO good luck on the tracks

PS sometimes it is a lot easier to paint the roadwheels and outer edges of the track BEFORE gluing them together to the roadwheels

In a general sense, you shouldn’t have any problems. Assemble and paint the lower hull and road wheels. Then assemble the tracks. Assemble them in short runs, then test fit them to make sure you’ve built enough of them. I tape them in place and leave them on the running gear overnight, just to let the glue set. Next, take them off and paint them. After that, put them on permanently. Some guys paint the tracks on the vehicle, but I’m nowhere near good enough with a brush to do that without making a mess. You can leave the upper hull off if it gives you more room to handle the tracks, but it would be a good idea to test fit the hull to make sure you’re not going to have gaps to fill over the painted hull parts.

HTH.

Lots of folks approach these in many different ways.

Personally I assemble small lengths at a time allow them to dry for 1/2 hour or so ,start at one end of the tank, usually the sprocket drive wheel , work your way to the other end of the LOWER track , and then go over the idler wheel ,working your way to the other end ,apply your sag where needed.
Key here on my technique is to leave the track in at least 2 pieces (upper and lower )sometimes 3 depending on tank (tigers, panthers) and paint them , glue the whole thing later after paint and weather into one .
If this whole mess makes sense to you , I am not sure it makes sense to me at this point .

I paint mine( assuming WWII german) base of gunmetal ,weather with dirt color pigment , and Drybrush with sliver or aluminum , then run a pencil over the high points to give a rubbed metal color .

Some guys have very interesting ways of approaching these , I have seen some that do tracks and wheels assembled glued in one piece , and painted seperate from the tank , then glued to the lower hull after paint .

The tank I’m building is the Dragon T-34/76, sorry I did not mention it from the start which is very interesting.

From I get from you guys, not only every modeller has a different technique, but different tank got different treatment in assembling the tracks.

I’m still undecided, kinna still try to see from different angles, but thanks guys, this really gives me more ideas to think about how Am I going to do this.

Ben

Here is the way I do it.

http://matt24.fotopic.net/c778272.html

I usually do the tracks last unless there it a clearance problem with the fenders. Sometimes I have to feed the tracks in from the front over the sprocket. Check your fender clearance ahead of time and it should go ok. Good luck.

Matt,
That is pretty slick !

Although my T-34 does not have a lot of clearance like yours, but I think it is still do able.
Thanks,

Ben

One thing I have found really helpful for any kind of track is to avoid gluing the drive sprockets and idlers wheels until after I have put the tracks on permanently. Trying to fit tracks over sprockets that don’t move can be a real pain.

recently I built my first tank model in about 35 years. It’s a Dragon Abrams M1A1 HA. The link and length tracks were about to drive me to drink. I finally bought a set of AFV Club aftermarket tracks–they went together easily, look great, and saved what’s left of my sanity (not much). I think whenever I can that’s what I’ll do in the future. I keep reading how easy link and length tracks are to assemble, but that must be for people with steadier hands, more skill or better Karma. I’d cheerfully pay an extra $10 for the kit if it just came with the type of tracks I ended up buying. I agree that the rubber band type and the flexible vinyl type rarely look really good. Just my 2 cents worth.

Excellent advice. I’ve learned the hardway on this pointer.