I agree with Don. A Velocity or even a Patriot should have absolutely no problems pre-shading panel lines and as Don said the replacement parts are inexpensive.
Granted the H&S 0.15mm needle is a slightly delicate, I managed to bend mine putting it into the brush from the rear (stupid move), but the matching nozzle has been fitted, used, cleaned & refitted umpteen times without any issues. The 0.2mm set has never presented any problems.
My point is that he has somehow managed to damage 4 tips on his Iwata Revolution, and is now considering buying a $200+ H&S Infinity, with the attendant increase in parts replacement cost.
New nozzle for (prices do not include S&H):
- H&S Infinity $16.51 - $17.90 (depending on size)
- Iwata Revolution $11.40
- Badger 105 Patriot $4.27
- Badger Renegade Velocity $7.50
New needle (prices do not include S&H):
- H&S Infinity $11.09-$11.38 (depending on size)
- Iwata Revolution $8.07 - $8.55 (depending on size)
- Badger 105 Patriot $4.99
- Badger Renegade Velocity $11.00
Granted, the price difference in the parts isn’t a whole lot, but the Patriot is almost 1/3 the cost of the Infinity, while the Velocity is less than 1/2. Given the prices that Badger sells for in the UK, H&S makes a bit more sense (Velocity £153.24 vs. H&S Infinity £147.99, source www.everythingairbrush.com). The inverse is true in North America. It’s interesting that H&S is about the same price in both countries, while the Badgers are hugely more expensive than the currency exchange accounts for! And we don’t get stuffed with a 17.5% VAT!
As I have said before, it’s his money to spend, not mine. I’m positive that the H&S Infinity is a great airbrush, but it’s out of my price range. If I wanted to do hairlines, I’d buy the Renegade Velocity.
As Mike said the other day when I quoted a Patriot versus a Velocity, you can’t reasonably make an apples to apples comparison between a Revolution and an Evolution ( or an Infinity) . Being once again subjective, I never felt such thrill as when I first opened an Evolution case, even with a Sotar or a Micron. This said, it did not change my abilities (or unabilities) to spray paint, but I think I found “my” airbrush (considering Infinity would be an … evolution of Evolution).
This is exactly why I tell people not to take apart their airbrush after every use because the potential for damage exists as you have seen. I don’t think the Iwata tips and needles are that soft that they are being damaged, I think you are just not being delicate enough with it when you assemble it. Put your aircap and tip in the gun lightly tighten the head, loosen the needle chuck and slowly push the needle forward until it stops. Then hold slight pressure on the back of the needle with your finger while you tighten the needle chuck with the other hand. You should not be experiencing what you are as far as damage goes. [;)]
A10wrthg, do you know that your Iwata Revolution airbrush comes with a 5-years warranty? Did you send the airbrush with the broken nozzle back to Iwata-Medea for under warranty repair? More importantly, find out why the nozzle broke. I don’t know how you tap the needle. But it is a real puzzle that you can break the steel nozzle by tapping the needle. [*-)] Let us know what Iwata says about your problem.
The Revolution is Iwata’s bottom line airbrush, but it is not cheaply made. It still get a steel alloy nozzle with a micro tip, screw-on design:
Each nozzle is precisely made on the industry’s most sophisticated machinery. They are hand tested to assure accurate control and fine atomization of the spray, and they are self-sealing, which eliminates the need for messy sealers. Unlike conventional brass nozzles, steel alloys are more durable and resist damage from harsh chemicals.
High-Performance Assembly
It is highly unusual that you can break the nozzle without breaking the small wrench that comes with it.
You may see other make of nozzle that looks much thicker at the rim of the nozzle tip. They are not necessary more robust if they are made of brass or similar materials.
Acually the HS nozzle is larger in general size
http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/1noforincogr.html
http://www.ratomodeling.com/reviews/furioew770/Furio25_007.jpg
I dont completely take it apart i only take out the needle and occasionaly the air cap.
Weird how the email notice I got of this post is readable, while the forum version is messed up!
Don’t mistake physical size for strength, they don’t always go hand in hand.
As I’ve said many times, you want to spend $200+ on an airbrush, knock yourself out. I just don’t think you’ll get the bang you are looking for. I hope, and I really mean this, that you are happy with your purchase, and I look forward to hearing your review, once you get it.
A10wrthg, you are not making any sense to me anymore.
Don’t know which airbrush is this that you linked. But it is not an Iwata Revolution HP-CR, which does not have the MAC (Micro Air Control) valve. The review author calls it a Sagyma model SW770. It is similar to a PowerCat 203 airbrush that I have down to the last details. It is a made in China knock-off of the Iwata HP-C Plus. As the reviewer, Rato Marczak, said, it is capable of pretty fine details and usually costs less than $50 shipped in the US. Anyone interested can see it at the link of Rato Marczak Modeling site from Brazil.
Do you have this knock-off airbrush or an Iwata Revolution HP-CR? Either way, I don’t believe that you can break the nozzle by tapping on the needle.
I tend to agree about the comments on breaking the nozzle in the Iwata HP-CR. I’ve owned one for 6 years now and have dismantled it many, many times without breaking the nozzle so far. Actually, It still works as fine as the day I bought it, but I have to admit that “tapping” the needle home is not something I have found necessary on mine, gentle pressure on the needle end with my thumb while finger-tightening the knurled needle chuck nut is all that’s really needed. Something is amiss for sure.
Cheers,
Snowy.
i know it is not the revolution but the nozzle is almost the exact same size. I dont tap very hard.
But why are you even tapping? It doesn’t take much force to split the tip, no matter how large it looks in the pictures. Finger pressure, and not much of that, is all it takes.
Do you use an Iwata HP-CR or an Iwata clone as shown in the picture?
No, the nozzle are not the same size. The Iwata HP-CR has a 0.5 mm nozzle and the C-Plus clone a 0.2 mm nozzle. That makes Iwata HP-CR nozzle 6 times bigger in its opening area.
Yes, they both use the same micro-tip design shape, as are most high end Badger and Iwata air brushes. This shape is widely copied by the knock-off airbrush makers, but that does not make the nozzle the same size.
The knock-off manufacturers actually copy the fine nozzle shape and dimension quick well in many cases. But I suspect that they use softer metal to make the nozzle easy to make. While those “soft metal” nozzle can work quite well when new, they would be more prone to damage. Is this the case for you?
After all, why do you have to tap the needle anyway? It is the most curious part of your post.
i use the Iwata not the knock off. yes, but the shape it almost the same on;y the opening is different and i lightly tap not even using as much pressure as i click the mouse with.
Did you send it back for repair? It should have a 5 years warranty from Iwata.
You’re probably getting tired of this discussion, but I thought of a possible reason for your tip damage. If the needle bearing or seal is too tight, it’s difficult to tell when the needle contacts the end of the tip, and it’s easy to push too hard. I’ve experienced this when I changed the needle bearing in my Anthem. Do you feel a lot of drag pushing the needle through the seal? If you do, I believe this is adjustable on the Iwata, and you could loosen it a bit. You should feel a little drag, but not a whole bunch. Just a thought.
Don
Well i have decided to get the Evolution instead which has a slightly larger needle and it is a bit cheaper plus ive heard a few good things about it. how do you guys think it is?
Compared to what? I have not heard what others you were considering or why?
You might want to take a look at this over on ARC, about the same questions.
http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=204478