individual link track problem

my problem is these thinks scare me.how do you do them?do i paint each track then scrape the paint and glue them together?how do you make them stay in place while the glue dries ?ive got several tanks i’d like to build but these tracks freak me out.any help would be great!

Start by cleaning them ALL up, and getting them in a pile or box. Get a metal ruler to keep the links straight and assemble the bottom run with CA (super glue). Using slow glue (tube) assemble the links that wrap around the sprocket in a straight line and let them dry for 3 minutes, then, while the run is still soft, wrap around the sprocket, do the same for the rear idler (if used). If the tracks are saggy or loose (tiger I) use the drive spricket technique.

Paint each run, top, sprocket, idler, and bottom runs away from the completed model; then attach to each other on the model using CA glue.

Hope this helps!

something that I do in addition to montanacowboys advice is try to spread a bunch of the links out facing the same way as you are assembling them with the guide horn facing up. Then with pointed tweezers (preferably) dab some glue on the previous attach point then grab the next link by the guide horn and place. I have found this to at least allow for an organized progression. My fingers are more in the way than not…

I use a similar method as Montanacowboy. Clean up the track links and prepare them for assembly. Depending on the model you can sometimes dry fit the running gear. A good example of this is with a Tamiya 1/35 Tiger. You can dry fit all the road wheels, idler and sprockets then shape your tracks around them. Then disassemble, paint, weather and reassemble. On other armor your going to have to paint the tracks on the tank since there is no possible way to remove them. for separate painting.

I like to use Testors tube glue rather than CA’s. I find its strong when it sets, it has a slow setup time and holds very well as your trying to shape your tracks. Its important to work at a good pace, the idea is to glue up one set of tracks, fit them to your running gear, shape any sag you want in your tracks, doing all this why the tracks are glued up yet still plyable enough that you can shape them. You have a little time to work with but the glue is going to setup so you do have to keep a decent pace before they become too stiff. Naturally you’ll have to glue the connecting ends together. I try to make this connection at the bottom. If you do a clean job you can’t tell anyways but thats just how I like to do it.

Some tracks are more delicate than others so it might be a better ideal to deal with them in sections like Montanacowboy does. Otherwise your tracks might fall apart while your trying to shape them around the running gear simply because there isn’t enough surface holding the tracks together. I haven’t run into this yet but I bet it could happen.

It works great if you have a tank that you can dry fit the running gear then disassemble things for paint. You can paint, weather, drybrush then final assemble everything together with ease. Individual links sometimes put people off because they take a little more work but I think they are great. The final look is very convincing.

tdpatt50

Italeri makes a great 1:35 Tiger I which I built up using all but the individual link tracks, I sent off to Tamiya for their one-piece tracks to their Tiger l which are are a great fit and go on much easier. A technique I read about years ago, in the '80s was to simulate tread sag by placing piano wire studs in the hull of the tank on top of the treads that run at the top of the wheels. After a heavy dose of mud, the short piano wire pieces will be hidden. To place the piano wire, drill a hole the diameter of the piano wire which should be a minimal diameter equal to that of mechanical pencil lead. I used the track sections form the Italeri kit to place around the tank for spare tracks as placed on the actual vehicle.

Are DML the tank kits you bought ? I gave up on them but not the 1:35 soldier sets which come right in with the latest from Tamiya re-issued soldiers. Maybe Italeri is trying to compete with DML !

Before showing a sag in any tracks make sure you do your Internet research on the tank you are modeling as some of the German tanks had little sag in the tracks.

You might be interested in viewing my posting in this section of the Forum ( re-posted by MortarMagnet) on weathering and some detailing techniques for mostly armor but applies to any model.

Regards,

johncpo

Hey guys

I’m new to armor, I have only three complete but I bought the Dragon TigerI with the individual links< is this what you are discussing? If so I was warned before I start that the two bags must be kept seperated from each other. One is for the left and one is for the right. Like I said I’m still green at armor. I just thought I would bring this up.

Zip

Yep, and it gets easier as you go.

I’ve had success with MC’s method. I usually don’t build vehicles that have sag, so for me it can be a lot easier. What kit is it that you are building?