okay, so what do you guys use to get the final clear coat really flat. i’m painting my ac with Tamiya acrylics interspersed with various coats of future for sealing, weathering etc, the finishing wih Model Masters Lacquer Overcoat Lusterless (Flat)…but the finish doesnt really seem flat. It’s more satin. There’s definitely a light sheen. What would you recommend for a truly flat finish?
I like Floquil’s Railroad colors clear flat.
i used Future w/ Tamiya’s flat base to flat coat my Stuka.
i went 10:3 (future to flat base).
there is still a hint of sheen, so i guess you could bump it up.
if you have time and inclination, try it out on a mule or some styrene first.
(always a good idea anyway)
ed.
I have gotten dead-flat finishes with Testor’s dullcoat. I found out that a reaction occurs when I applied it directly over Gunze acrylics. I have had no problems getting a flat finish w/ dullcoat over Future. Its the only system I use.
are testors and model masters not the same? i think all this time i’ve been thinking they were but it sounds like they arent.
Mer - The product to which I referred is Testor’s Dullcoat Lacquer. (product # 1160). It comes in a 1 3/4 oz. bottle. I thin this with lacquer thinner, and apply it in the same manner as Future ( misting coats, followed by heavier). BE CAREFUL, though, when using this. If you apply too heavy a coat, it can “Frost” on you, making the finish resemble winter-white camouflage. 
Hope this helps !
thanks for the help! one last question, will using the lacquer/thinner combo melt my acrylic paint job?
I always apply it over Future. Do light, dusting coats. Even if it doesn’t appear to be turning flat, wait before applying more. The slow buildup prevents to much accumulation at one time. Don’t spray it till it looks wet. If you have something with which you can test it, do so. You don’t want to get to the last stage of the model, only to “botch” the last step. Good Luck !
wow! that looks awesome! that’s exactly what i’m looking for! thanks!
Thanks, glad to be of help. Just be careful not to put it on “wet.” Practice, if you can, on something other than that which you have invested so much time & care.
wait, you had said dont spray it til it looks wet…did you mean dont spray it til it looks dry? i’m confused.
I find that Humbrol matt is about as matt as it gets.
As for wet vs dry, when you spray any paint, it looks ‘wet’ when first applied, this means that the paint still has enough solvent, and is the right thickness, to smooth out before it dries. The line between ‘wet’ and running down the model in big drips is sometimes a little hard to get right!
By avoiding the ‘wet’ look as you spray you are letting some fo the solvent dry off in the air between the airbrush and the model, and the paint is going on in a mist that is not thick enough to look wet. What this acheives is more ‘tooth’ as the paint does not have time to smooth out on the model before drying.
This ensures that your matt coat does not become satin through being too smoth.
got it! thanks for the clarification.
Mer I think they cleared it up for you but spraying it “dry” it should not get the wet glossy look to it. You can either add a little more thinner, back away with your airbrush or just spray a smaller stream. I usually use the back away method so I can spray a little more and see it in the air so I can tell where I’m spraying. I use the model masters dull coat and always thin it around 25% with lacquer thinner. I spray multiple light coats to build up slow and “dry” [:D] You’ll get the hang of it and you can go back over areas later that aren’t quite dull enough.
Eric
thanks guys! i can see getting the right finish is going to turn into a whole new technique to master…lol…thanks for all your help!
I find that most “flat” clears still have the shine to them from the gloss coat underneath. I use floquil dust for a flat finish. It is found in the railroad paints line and with a second and third applications it will fade the paint to a lighter shade for a bit of easy weathering. I just mist on the first coat, and spray fine lines to fade in select areas.
hey drew that sounds like a great product! i’ll check it out!
Hey Mer,
Testors Dullcoat is my flat coat of choice. I use a similar technique to what Pix uses, but I just build it up gradually in VERY light coats.
I have a secret weapon that I use to cut down on the residual sheen that Drew referred to. Not really a secret weapon, just a technique. I’ll have to take some photos and get back with the explanation.
Fade to Black…
Testor’s also has a Lusterless Flat that I have hadsome sucess with. . .if you shake the can before and after warming it up, if you don’t shake it well, you will be sorry, trust me!
I have also been experimenting with 70% Isopropol Alcohol and ordinary white glue 30%, with some pretty good results.
Don
oooh wolfie i’m intrigued…cant wait to hear more details
dkmacin i think the lusterless flat is what i have now and is giving me more of a satin finish…not quite flat enough…