I started putting the Archer transfers on my Mack NO last night. What a headache!
I love how they look when they are done, but putting them on is a royal pain. I rub and I rub and I rub (yeah, I know that sounds nasty [:p]), and then I lift the paper and part of the transfer stays on the paper! Grr, it’s so annoying.
Just to be clear, I mean I rub the [censored] out of these things. It’s not that it’s a disaster all the time. This was my first Archer white star application, and I screwed up the first one, so I just scraped it off and did it again. But the stencil lettering was a HUGE headache. Example: the sheet gives you six MAX SPEED stencils, and I needed one. Guess how many I went through before I got all of the stencil to stay on? Yup, SIX. I was in total despair as I started applying the sixth one, having scraped off five previous ones.
I can say that the big transfers go on ok, but I’m seriously considering switching to normal wet-method decals for the smaller ones, like these stencils.
Anyone had similar experiences? Despite all the griping, they do look great when on the kit. If they ever get on there, that is!
Yikes! Sounds very frustrating.
I’ve only used MIG’s dry transfers so far, and they went on with no problems whatsoever.
Your story makes me kind of wary of Archer now…
Had nothing but great success w. Archer transfers…
I have always applied over a flat or semi-gloss finish,
& I use a regular “burnishing tool” I found at a craft
store for burnishing thin copper plate designs.It has
tiny ball-shaped tips& cost all of $ 3.00. Hope this helps!!
I use a ball point pen and tape if possible , rub til it turns translucent then remove , they have worked fine for me so far here , but I know what you are saying larry if they have even the smallest speck still on the backing paper the transfer will fall apart
I’ve used some Archer transfers, but most of the dry stuff I use is Verlinden. They can be a pain as well. I use a blunt toothpick to burnish mine with. Doesn’t mean it works right every time, but it does seem to get them to stick a little better for me.
I’ve used Archer a couple of times and with practice they work nice.
I lift the backing paper up real slow and look to see if the transfer is coming apart, if it is I lay the backing back down and rub again in that spot. That’s what works for me.
Thanks guys, I’ll look for that kind of burnishing tool. RAF, yup, I lift the paper up very slowly too, and that worked fine with the stars, but the stenciled letters are made up of lots of little dots, and it doesn’t work for them.
Now i’m really scared. I just ordered up some tiny Archer dry transfers from online, I mean things like German division, rank, and type symbols. I’ve never used archer before.
I’ve only used(and get this[8)] ) Woodland scenics transfers. U know lettering and numbers and stuff. I think I had a little trouble but I just kept rubbing like U guys said. But now I’m worried. Are they that much of a pain?
By the way Larry, if ever you get that frustrated again, just get up and walk away. Cool off and get some concentration back Ur less likely to ruin that many decals again if you just give yourself time. I’ve found that to be some of the most excellent modeling advice I’ve ever gotten.
I’ve just put some Archer German Uniform decals on some of my guys. Here’s some suggestions:
Make sure you mount the figure on something like the end of a wood dowel. Then clamp the dowel in a vise or something.
After cutting out the decal, tape it in place on the figure. It takes time but trying to hold that small decal in place while rubbing the back is almost impossible.
Other then that, just have alot a patience and go SLOW. It’s well worth it.
While I can burnish the dry-transfer off the mounting paper well enough, I seem to often mis-align them (placed at an odd angle) just enough that I can’t stand to leave them alone! Arrggg!