I kit-bashed a Revell B-17F Nose to a Monogram B-17G Fuselage

Now I put the wings on:

Now for the tail. I cut out the fins on the vertical stabilizers, separating them from the horizontal stabilizer and then reattached them for a more realistic look. I did the same for the fin on the rudder. I tried to do this with the ailerons on the main wings but the top wing and bottom wing ailerons on the kit are off by an eighth of an inch so they don’t match up.

I attached them to the fuselage using the 1960’s technique of putting spray cans top and bottom to ensure alignment.

I added the rudder in like manner and this is the result.

I decided to spruce up the tail guns with actual guns (there was a piece that came with the kit with two machine gun barrels you were supposed to glue to the outside of the tail come). I took two of the kit guns, took off the barrels and put the gun bodies in place on the tail cone connecting them with a little piece of styrene. I drilled through the tail cone and used two drill bits to make certain the guns were aligned. Then I glued the machine gun bodies in place.

Here is the tail cone and guns when added to the model:

More later!

2 Likes

Now we return to the bomb bay! When I took off the kit bomb bay doors, I used a file to remove the squares that indicated the hinges. There were six on each side of the bomb bay opening.

I needed to find some bomb bay doors that fit these cutouts exactly. I checked what was available and found that the only bomb bay doors available that matched were a set from True Details. They were perfect and excellent renditions of the actual B-17 bomb bay doors. They glued right in, fitting perfectly; the people who designed them actually looked at the actual Monogram B-17 as well as some real B-17’s. It was obvious! I made some copies as I knew I’d screw some up and wanted replacements. Here is a set of the resin copies:

They slid right in with no problem at all!

Remember these eyepins I planned to use as bomb bay doors hydraulic actuators? You can see the four of them sticking out here:

I took little pieces of the brass tube I mentioned before, fashioned hooks on small pieces of eyepins inserted the little hooks into small pieces of brass tube. I cut the eyepins already in the bomb bay down to fit, shoved a brass tube/eyepin hook combination on each one and then glued the hook to the appropriate bomb bay door. It came out really well:

1 Like

Now for the hardest part of the build, “Knock-Out Dropper,” had a nose with a single machine gun in the middle of it. The first thing I had to do was find the proper shaped nose canopy. I had a nice set of various canopies from Koster.

I had never dealt with Vac-u-formed parts before so this was another new thing. My Dad once told me that you had to do a knew thing six times before you got it right. With this in mind I had to make six copies of the Koster canopy to get one worth keeping. I started by making a rubber mold of the whole set:

I selected the one I needed and made a bunch of resin masters that looked like this:

I attached a wooden piece to the bottom of each:

I used a Vac-u-form to make a canopy on each master:

I cut off the excess Vac-u-form plastic with a flat bladed Xacto knife:

I ended up with eight copies:

I needed bases for the Vac-u-formed nose canopy so I traced the outline of the canopy base and made my base out of sheet styrene, I made eight resin copies and painted them matt aluminum:

The piece to hold the machine gun didn’t look that sturdy so I looked for a replacement. By this time I had an HK B-17F. I made a copy of the machine gun mount and made enough copies for each of my canopies:

There were four gun supports in the actual aircraft that held the nose gun in place. So I got some really bendable Christmas Ornament hooks and straightened out enough to make my mounts:

I drilled out the mounts and passed the ornament wire through the holes.

This spider-like creation was the resul:

Here is my production line:

So I made my six nose canopies:

I ruined two just trying to get the machine gun in but I am satisfied with the one that was successful:

Here is my homemade nose canopy and gun on the fuselage:

More later!

3 Likes

Okay, we are getting close to the end. Most of the sub-systems and systems were complete and on the plane. So it was time to paint. I airbrushed grey primer on the bomber:

Remembering that this project was a test bed of things I had never done, one of the things on my list of things to try was bare-metal painting. So I masked off my bomber and air-brushed it in Vallejo Metals matt-aluminum. Also, if I scratched it putting the final touches on it, bare metal would be what would show through, a win-win for me. Here is that:

I had not done black-basing and thought: “I’ll try that!” I sprayed the bomber black (over the silver) and then tried to airbrush little white bubbles inside my panels as is required. I quickly realized that my slightly shaky hands (I’m 73 after all) and my lack of years of practice with an airbrush was causing the white to cover the panel lines and threatened to ruin the effect I was looking for. I had some one-eighth of an inch masking tape and covered the panel lines with this tape. It really worked well and I recommend it to any older person to cover the black of the panel lines. Then I sprayed the white blobs at will without worrying about the panel lines. Here is the bomber with tape:

Here is the bomber with the tape removed:

For the actual bomber colors I used a four color box of US colors from AK OD, Grey, Green and Desert Sand. I used all three. I used the grey on the bomber bottom:

I used several light coats until the plane was covered but the panel line black still showed through. You can see that hear. I also masked off the grey and airbrushed the flap bays matt aluminum:

I then masked off the grey completely and then airbrushed AK OD on the upper parts of the bomber:

This is the result:

In this photo you can see the dark panel lines showing through:

My bomber, “Knock-Out Dropper,” like many B-17’s, had the de-icer boots removed leaving the aluminum skin show through (a lot of these boots would lose adhesion and flap in the wind or break lose and strike the tail surfaces) so I had to mask these off and paint them matt aluminum. You can see that here:

“Knock-Out Dropper” was the first 8th AF bomber to fly 50 missions so it was no spring chicken. The sun had faded the paint, especially the tops of the ailerons and tail surfaces which were cloth. I added some of the AK Desert Sand to the OD and painted the surfaces in question the resulting faded OD:

On “Knock-Out Dropper” there are some hand-painted camouflage patterns in medium green as there were on other bombers, such as “Memphis Belle!” I used the AK Medium Green that came in the four color box of US colors but had to hand paint these on. I didn’t thin the paint enough and it is a little thick but here you can see the faded OD vertical stabilizer with the medium green camouflage painted on and the matt aluminum de-icer boot:

As I said, this bomber had been in combat, the paint was faded. I had never done any weathering as the “fresh from the factory look” was still popular in 1969 so I thought I would try my hand with that. My approach was really simple. I had the remaining color, desert sand, from the AK four pack so I thin it down and misted the bomber with my airbrush, spraying more layers on the top than the bottom. I put down a base of Tamiya smoke as a base for oil and exhaust streaks and then used AK Oil to spray from the engines backwards along the wing and then AK Exhaust from the engine exhausts backwards along the wing. For a first attempt it wasn’t too bad:

I used Zotz B-17 decals for Knock-Out Dropper and had a couple of them “shatter” and segment into pieces, so I was forced to buy another set. This may have been my fault as the decals back in the day were much thicker but you might want to think about this when buying decals. I added the doors to the bomber. I drilled a tiny hole where the door was supposed to go with my pin vise, big enough to hold the eyepins, drilled a hole in the door, put a small piece of eyepin in the door and insert it into the fuselage. This worked perfectly. I used the True-Detail set of B-17 doors:

Here they are in place:

I attached the bottom flaps:

I painted the frames of the top turret and ball turret canopies and installed them in the bomber using the original Monogram mounts (they were really ingenious and allowed you to put the turrets in after painting). It was really hard to see the faint window markings on those canopies so I did it old school; I put masking tape on the canopy, went over the tape with a lead pencil and then cut the resulting pencil line:

The turrets when installed looked like this:

I added tires. There was a “flat tire” showing the weight of the bomber on the tire, in resin, in a box of spare parts I bought on ebay. I had only one so I made a resin copy of the one I had, weathered it a bit and added those and the push rods to the landing gear.

I didn’t like the kit pitot tubes; they didn’t look like tubes and there was no attachment point other than a slight depression. I imagined these constantly falling off. So, I went back to my eyepins and brass tubes and constructed my own:

The only thing left was the antennae wires. Using the eyepins again for wire attachment points, I used vinyl thread to make the dorsal antenna:

And the ventral antennae:

4 Likes

Well, I’m done and this is what I ended up with:

I’m tired; I think I’ll take a nap!

After I was all finished my wife said: “What are you going to do with it?” I answered: “I don’t really have an answer to that; I’ll probably stick it on a shelf in the basement.” She said: “Why don’t you put it in the foyer so people can see it?” So, I got an old bedside table that was round, got a twenty dollar circular mirror that was exactly the same diameter as the table and voila:

Well, that’s it! I’m tired so I think I’ll take a nap!

4 Likes

Spectacular achievement ! Great bit of modeling, scratch building, and doin’ new stuff. -Wow-
Great display “base” and Thanks to your wife for thinking of it.

Now all you need is a small LED flashlight and Magnifing glass so your guests can get the true experance… just kidding–sorta.

1 Like

You did a great job of superdetailing! Now all you need is to add the figures :smiley:

I thought about that but my figure painting skill are pathetic. I have the figures that came with the Monogram kit so, in light of trying new things, I might give it a try!

I thought about that but my figure painting skill are pathetic. I have the figures that came with the Monogram kit so, in light of trying new things, I might give it a try!

I’m having trouble with the posting system but I’ll try this again. I originally planned to light up the interior of the bomber with LED lights, placing them where the lights were in the actual aircraft but I quickly found that, with everything I had to cram in there, there was no room left for the wires. So I scratched that part of it. However, Amazon has an endoscopic camera, like the FBI uses to peek under doors and plumbers use to see where the pipe is plugged, which plugs into your cellphone, has a light on the tiny camera and sells for about $30. I may get that and see what can be seen by inserting through the waist windows and the open doors of the model. It’s a thought. If I do that I’ll post the pictures here!

Ain’t technology a grand thing?

Do try it! You have the skills, it’s just a matter of practice, like anything else.

If I could offer a tip to help if you start out-in 1/48 and in 1/72, you can paint in the main colors, like uniforms, equipment, faces. Then use washes to pick out the sculpted detail, especially the faces. I use raw umber, very thin. If you’re not up to painting faces in detail, which is a challenge in small scales, a wash can achieve the same result. And in those scales, someone looking at the model or diorama is standing the equivalent of a hundred feet away, at least.

A good way to walk, till you’re ready to run!

Best regards,
Brad

2 Likes

Thanks for the and you have me thinking now!

[quote=“Linebacker, post:1, topic:377980, full:true”]
In 2009 I posted this at Finescale Modeler: “I am thinking of taking the nose of a Revell 1/48 B-17F and grafting it to the front of a Monogram B-17G fuselage to make an F model. The Revell is nice but has no interior to speak of and there is a wealth of aftermarket material for the Monogram G. From just fore of the cockpit to the tail they seem the same. The engines in both models are the Wright R-1820-97. The flaps seem the same. So, other than the nose, are there any differences between the two models?” Well, I decided to go through with it but I decided, since the last model I had built was in 1974 when I was in the army, that a lot of techniques were available now that hadn’t been available back in the day and I decided to use it as a test-bed to try all that stuff I had read about over the years. I had won a couple of 1st place prizes at the Columbus, Ohio, IPMS, in 1969, so I was not without skill but my skills were somewhat rudimentary and rusty. I finally finished and will describe the process. Subsequently, I put that old plastic through the wringer; doing things to it that would probably be considered a war crime in several countries.

First, I cut the nose off the F and attached it to the G. I cut out the waist gun windows from the F and added them to the G. I also cut the rudder out of the tail. I filled in the cracks with putty and the work did not look too bad so I decided to continue (I did ruin an F and a G on a first attempt but the advantages of having a spare kit on hand would soon become evident). Here is the work up to this point.

I knew that the radio room gun was wrong on the Revell F so I knew that I would have to make one. I took the destroyed first attempt B-17F/G and cut the fuselage down so that only the section from just aft of the radio room gun pit to just forward of the cockpit was all that was left. I taped off the windows and the ends of the section so that it looked like this:

I turned it over and filled the roof channel which runs between the radio room bun and the cockpit full of plaster. When it hardened I had a plaster rendition of the opening and the roof channel over the radio room. I sanded off all of the plaster but the radio room roof and cut away enough to make a mold master. I made a mold using rubber and then made several resin copies. The copy on the far right in this photo I lined with aluminum cut from a Pepsi can.

Before I go any further I must note that I found, at Hobbylobby, in the jewelry department, these small wires with a loop on the end called eyepins. I also found some brass tubes in the model department that the eyepins slid right into. I would rely on the eyeypin throughout the build (there are probably 50 eyepins in the model) and several times with the brass tubes. Here are the two products:

Here is the eyepin inserted in the brass rod:

I needed a machine gun ring to hold the radio room machine gun so I went to the ruined F/G boxes, found a ring from the top turret assembly, filed it down and made a passible ring.

I made a resin copy of it in case I screwed one up, drilled small holes in each side of the ring and in each side of the radio room gun position and used an eyepin as an axle for the gun ring and gun:

Here is the radio room gun position in the fuselage:

This is how it looked in the final product:

More later!

Not so much!

Thanks for the tip and you have me thinking now!

I love how this build turned out! You really made history come alive. I enjoyed following along as you built this great model. What’s next? After your nap that is.

I’m building a P-61B Black Widow by Great Wall! I’ll use the Monogram decals for Carroll Smith’s plane! I have a thing about kill markings

1 Like

One thing I failed to mention was a problem I could not overcome: the Monogram/Revell windows. They are far to thick but that was the times in which these models were produced. Also, they didn’t fit particularly well. Clear plastic is much thinner now and more realistic!

1 Like

Honestly one of the best builds I’ve seen! Fantastic work!

I do have to ask though, where’d you see that there’s a bulkhead with a door in the rear by the tail gunner? I’ve never in all my years studying the B-17 seen that bulkhead and door. Books, drawings, having been in multiple B-17’s I’ve never seen that.

I have been a fan of the B-17 since I was 7 years old. I watched every episode of “12 O’clock High” and went over ever thing I could find on the B-17F in preparation for this project. I had never seen that bulkhead either. One of my primary go-to sources was the 3D walkthrough of the Boeing Bee, which is a B-17F. I was finished with the tailwheel assembly and was “crawling around” the Boise Bee, on-line, trying to locate any A-4 walkarounds so I could get them in the right places and “BOOM,” there was that mysterious bulkhead. I could not find it any where else but, frankly, I could find no photos of that particular area. So I don’t actually know if that was on every single B-17F or not so I put it in. The Boise Bee walkaround is here:

Here is a couple of screen shots of the Boeing Bee looking aft from the tailwheel:

And her is one looking forward from the machine gun position:

There is the bulkhead and the door. The walkway is split at the bulkhead and both look purpose built. Perhaps it was removed in most B-17’s.

Another question is what happened to the radio room gun position canopy. In the F it would have kept the wind and cold out. In most pictures of F’s it is missing. Did they put it in the radio room on the starboard side where there was room between the chairs and the fuselage wall? Is there some other place they put it? Did they leave it behind because it was just a pain in the butt? It didn’t slide back as there were tracks to slide the machine gun back into the cavern above the bomb bay ceiling but there are no such tracks for the canopy. There seem to be four L handles that locked it down but no tracks. I asked a lot of people with knowledge on the F but no one knew. On the G the canopy was permanently attached with a swivel mount for the gun in the canopy (on later G’s the radio room gun was eliminated as more hassle and weight than worth). If you have any insight in this regard, let me know.

1 Like

That is one TIGHT squeeze for the tail gunner to get by the tailwheel fairing and through the “mystery bulkhead”! I had a look inside the Evergreen Museum’s B-17 and didn’t think a human could wriggle his way to and from his station, certainly not while wearing a parachute.