Will anybody please help me? I have a serious problem with white colour.I cant make a good kit if this contains white …for instance almost all the USAF modern fighter have white landing systems…Except of painting 3-4 times the landing system (i’m using super enamel humbrol) is there any other way for a good result?
thank you
first clean the parts with soap and water if you have not done so already, then spray on 2 light coats of white primer, any brand will do. now paint the white paint on, and you will find that you wont have any more coverage problems. hope this helps
Try doing it in multiple thin coats also. Don’t try to cover it all in one go. If you spray it on too thick first go, the paint will gather in corners and pull away from the edges. So spray it on almost dry coats for the first 2 or 3 coats, then put on a wet coat or two.
Another thing you could consider is using spray cans. You’ll still need to spray on several coats, but you won’t have to clean your airbrush after every coat.
hope this helps.
Are you brushpainting?, airbrushing, rattle cans, need more info! The advice in Daniel and Reggie’s threads is about all you need to know. If you are brushpainting gloss or flat white acrylic or enamel over bare plastic, you need to tell us that and we can help you better.
Good luck,
Steve
If you’re airbrushing, Floquil Reefer White, a model railroad enamel, will come to your rescue. If you’re brush painting, Vallejo White acrylic will do the same. Both should be applied over a light grey primer. These two paints are the absolute best whites I’ve ever used.
Regards, Rick
Rick beat me to it. Floquil Reefer White was some of the best advice I’ve had in the last couple years! 2 thin coats and you’re golden.
I’m whiteaphobic and also I have a yellowaphobic condition that I try to deal with when model building.
After 25 years of modeling, I still have a fear these two colors because the prep work and brand of paint involved to get good results. Priming is a MUST and Floquil IS the only enamel I trust in these colors. Decoart and Tamiya for the acrylics. Anything else is hit or miss as far as consistancy.
Scott
I used to hate painting all primary colours, as well as aluminium/silver etc.
Then I got some citadel miniatures and Tamiya spray cans and everything was all better!
As I airbrush Vallejo model air , I prime all my aircraft with citadel miniatures skull white, then rub it to a shine with a soft cloth, this gives the finish a high gloss in seconds, then airbrush.
No more nightmares.
All my USN kits are now painted with spray cans and much faster than I could do it with an airbrush (I use the airbrush to tidy up the finish)
A while back, I started using Tamiya’s white surface primer. It’s primarily a primer for metal landing gear and figures, but I have found it to be quite versatile. I use it for priming the entire model before applying my color coats, and for painting the landing gear and wheel bay areas.
It goes on nice with a little tooth. After a couple of coats, all that is needed is a little sanding and I have about the best white I’ve ever been able to accomplish. I have yet to experience any problems with it reacting to the plastic in any way.
White and yellow are the worst (scottrc you cracke dme up on that… I am the same). I found vallejo flat white. I thin it very little for ab application and use many light coats to build up density without that ugly white paint build up you all know. Works wonders
Gee I thought I was the only person with this problem. I just about finished an F-117 and nothing worse then painting white over black plastic. I dreaded this part on building the kit and airbrushing the white did look better then brush painting, which I normaly do but it never looks good. It took several light coats to get it to look consistantly white though. The other fun part was airbrushing black over black plastic, I couldnt tell where I missed anything (a real test on the eyes) next time I get in a similar situation I am going to use light gray primer for the gear and the plane. Some one needs to convince the Air Force to paint the landing gear Dark Gull Gray and make it easier on us modelers,lol.
Here are a few tips in case you have to hand-brush white or yellow:
1.) Mix a retarder/extender to your paint.
2.) Use the right brush best, IMO, are brushes from an Arts Supply shop(Red Sable, etc)
3.) Brush quiet a bit of the paint off your brush, I use paper palletes. To wet is asking for problems and excessive streaking.
4.) Apply a thin layer of paint, yes, it will NOT cover completely. Don’t worry.
5.) Let it dry, than apply the next layer, varying your brush strokes by 90 degrees.
i.e. first coat left to right, second coat top to bottom.
6.) Repeat step 5 for coat 3 and 4, by this time you should have good coverage.
Pretty much the same as when doing multiple coats with an A/B.
7.) Sand the finish with a very fine grit sandpaper.
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Of course having a primed Kit goes a looong way towards a better finish.
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This should give you a finish not quiet as good as air-brushed but very close.
HTH.
Have you tried this?..I use to hate painting white and other light pigments(such as yellow ) untill i used an undercoat of testors alluminium plate buffing metaliozer(excuse my paw spelling everyone ! ) After undercoating with this and buffing you can then build up lights coats of white . i’ve had great sucess with this as the silver is really thin and it avoids that dredded "paint build up "you get with trying to build up white coats. Hope this helps …Peter