I just finish the job correcting the gaps on my kit (a Esci´s DC-3) and man… I hate it!!! you need spend time and efort here to make a good model, but for me at least is a frustraiting task, several hours of labor and i´m not so sure I got it right, the worst part is the model have a NMF so the surfaces need to be flawless.
do you feel the same some times???
best regards, and sorry about my English jeje
Jeremias
Filling gaps & seams can be a real PIA, especially on an ill fitting kit, but it’s always part of the build process to some degree. Just take it in stride & a good job with the basic construction will pay dividends in the quality of the finished model.
Regards, Rick
Well, Jeremias, look at it this way. It is better to have seams that you can fill, on your model, than those seams on your face called wrinkles, that you will someday have to look at each morning when you look in the mirror. Some things we just have to accept. All perfection is at some point illusion and perspective, and acceptance.
However, I hate those seams too!
I read this tip from a modeler on another site. He uses modeling clay. Press the clay into the seam then rub it with a damp cloth. The seam is filled and the surrounding detail in retained, modeler Chet Mohn said. I haven’t tried it yet but plan to. It sounds like it would work.
Filling and sanding is the reason so many of my builds haven’t been finished. Hadn’t heard about modeling clay. Isn’t there a lot of oil in clay that would hinder paint adhesion?
I’m with wayne on that…seems like it would cuase some serious problems…I hate seam filling too, but the end is always worth the effort!
Brian
I’m still mastering that skill…[|(]
Putty and sanding is definately not fun, but what I’ve noticed on my builds at least is that a good job in the seams usually results in a nicely done model. I’ve had several builds where I thought I did a decent job until the unsightly gap in the seams shows through the paint.
Keep at it. It pays off in the end!
Welcome to the seam haters club, otherwise known as FSM [swg].
Though, there is a fairly easy way to get around the sanding part. If you’re using squadron white putty (or similar), after you’ve put the putty in the seam, dip your finger in some nail polish remover with acetone (the acetone is the key ingredient) and just smooth out the putty. It forces the putty into all the gaps and smooths it out at the same time. Then all you have left to do is to give it a very light sanding after it’s dried (give it about 24 hours).
It’s saved me from oversanding details and panel lines. It’s the best way to go, as far as I’m concerned.
-Fred
The Esci kit isn’t the worse kits I ever built, and filling and sanding seams does suck. Your assembly technique will directly depend on the amount of filler you’ll need. Smaller gaps can be filled with stretched sprue, which is easier to shape and clean up versus putties and CA. It is also more durable over time. Basic modeling skillsets will get you through the difficulties.
WE DONT CARE HOW YOU FEEL!![#toast]
I have one big hint, which works really well for me. Get the fuselage halves together, in which those seams are rarely an issue because you can put the bad one underneath, if you can’t fix it.
Then, glue the top half of each wing to the body just right. Mind you, put the bottom on dry, or as the Brits say “offer it up to the assembly”, but shave off all the stupid little pins that are supposed to align the top and bottom of the wings.
After the wing tops set, and the bottom is “offered” and eventually glued in place, it’s much easier to sand all around the perimeter of the wings, which if you’ve lived clean, should not be a big deal.
I’ve seen someone successfully use dental wax. It’s low temp enough to melt to the model without damage, but the issue I see is when it gets warm the model gets fragile. I’ve seen some people filling a seam with squadron putty, and then using cotton swabs dipped in either acetone or fingernail polish to smooth it out and maintain the detail and then do some final smooth sanding later.
EDIT
Another method that sounds promising that I plan to try is superglue and microbaloons. Only issue is the extreme hazzard of inhalation of microbaloons.
Once you have the putty sanded or acetoned… paint the putty seam with a coat of clear gloss. This seals the small pores in the putty which the plastic doesn’t have - so then the putty seam won’t show through the paint once you get the top coat on.
-Ro
That’s a great tip, Ro…thank you! I will have to try that on the next build.
I hate them as well. But, getting rid of seams is part of the modeling skill and mastery. I spend most of the total build time on seams/joints and has become a pet peeve of mine. I sometimes get tired/frusrtated with them. I’ll set it down till the next day or work on something else. I view seams as a challenge now and that gives me the practice I need.
Andy
Hello Jeremias,
Seams and filling were something never thought off in my ‘early’ modelling days, stick them together paint n decal (transfers over here) hang from bedroom ceiling, end. These days I guess I’m more careful, lol. Have been trying out the Mr Surfacer’s, took a little getting used to, but they have a future in my modelling now, easy to sand when dry and a ‘Q’ tip/cotton bud dipped in Meths/denatured alcohol works well for a smooth off. I’ve found it easier to use than Squadron putty as it will really fill very small imperfections and not come back off. My pet hate is painting though. Eyes are well worn and not owning an airbrush it’s all hand done here. Still it’s all fun, and now and then we all sort something out and think to ourselves, yeah that’s good. And really it’s not about the plane, it’s the challenge. Keep sanding and filling, you know you are gonna love it when it’s finished, one day LOL
All the best,
Mick C.
Will FUTURE work? Or does it have to be “real” clear gloss? Im about to test this on a seam I am about to “fix”… thanks
Well, I have no idea. I have never used Future - yet! Theoretically, it should. Like many here, I just recently got back into modelling (after 26 years off) and Future didn’t exist back in the day (or, if it did, we were all unaware of its uses).
I should have pointed out that coating a seam with clear gloss doesn’t hide the seam, it only seals the pores in the putty so the topcoat of paint won’t sink into it. This would often give a coat a paint a slighly different sheen, which made the seam really stand out. The clear coat prevents this. If your seams are nicely sanded/molded and you coat them before painting, they will disappear.
Let me know if the Future works! I just bought a bottle. It’s been sitting on my modelling bench for two weeks and I’ve been eyeing it up suspiciously…
-Ro
I use the nail polish method too and that’s a great idea regarding a clear gloss coat. I’ll give it a try next time, thanks for the tip.
[#ditto][#ditto]
This is what I have been using fo ra magority of my seam filling for a couple years now. I still do use the good ol fashion way…at times…but this method with nail polish remover is absolutley fantastic. It save all your detail as well. No, it does not eat the plastic, but it MUST be the acetone type. Acetone free does not work!!. It takes all types of paint with no problem, no bleeding, or blemishes. I will have to try the futre trick as well…great idea!!
I also use white out or typing correction fluid for smaller jobs. Sands and takes paint very well too.
Brent