How Would You Replicate These?

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

Although this is a b&w photo, notice the horizontal scratches on the fender of this M26 Pershing. I’m assuming the tank is in a standard OD scheme. How would you reproduce the scratches in scale? Color, consistency, etc.?

Also, note the heavy layer of dust/dirt over the hull of this Sherman. How would you effectively replicate this?

2

For the scratches on the fenders of the Pershing I would suggest doing a dust coloured oil wash over the fenders and before it dries drag a toothpick in the areas where you want scratches. As for the thick layer of dust on the Sherman it looks like you could replicate it by doing a series of heavy oil washes in a dusty colour in layers building up the most paint where you see the most dust. HTH,

Chris,

EDIT-- I just realised the scratches appear lighter in colour than the olive drab base coat for that I would suggest adding a drop of white or yellow to some olive drab paint to lighten it and then dip a toothpick or an old toothbrush into the paint and lightly drag it across the side of the fenders.

3

For dust I prefer a light oil wash followed by the “doog” dots method followed by pastel dust. you can either brush the dust direct and somewhat rub in, in places or mix with turpinoid and rain down the dust. give more of a dust and rained on look.

I’m not big on scratches so I assume some of the chip and scratch wizards can give you better info.

Hope this helps!

Rounds Complete!!

4

Fer scratches I generally use my fingers… [;)]

Oh, yeah… THOSE scratches. I like to use a toothpick splinter with some thinned paint OR if I’m feeling pretty sure of myself, a 10/0 brush. Whatever you decide to use, be sure to hold it at 90 degrees (Straight up n’ down) from the surface of the model. Be conservative with zee scratches though. It can be overdone and look like crap.

SST

5

Colored pencils work great for scratches. Prismacolor makes a wide variety of colors, I have about two dozen different colors that I use for all sorts of effects. The nice thing is that if you don’t like the effect, you can scrub them off and try again. Brands like Derwent are water soluble and can be used like watercolor paints. You can fade them, blend them, or wash them off completely.

6

The scratches? I’d just paint them in with a tannish-olive mix, with a fine tip brush.

For the Sherman covered in dust, I’d do first a light airbrushing of dirty tan, then a heavy oil wash of tan. Drybrush wth base color, then apply pastels for a final touch.

7

Have a read of Mig Jimenez’ tutorials

http://missing-lynx.com/rareworld.htm

The dusty Sherman comes off realistically modelled when you show dust variation on areas of high traffic and wear: areas where the crew would grab, step or scuff with their overalls when they got on or off the tank. These areas would be LESS dusty. A widely seen modeller who is doing this is Steve Zaloga in MilMod. Here’s his recent build with the new M5A1

http://missing-lynx.com/gallery/usa/m5a1sz_1.html

Look at the edges and lifting lugs and fender edges: DARKER (not the old frosty Verlinden and Greenland style of drybrushing)

Once the dust/worn dust layer is applied, I’d also use a wet toothpick to clean out scratches of the dust. Again, the idea is to reveal the basecoat underneath the dust. A pencil could be used here too.

8

Hey guys! Thanks for the advice and the links. I’m in the midst of Tamiya’s M26 kit and am paranoid about screwing it up! These tips will go a long way toward the prevention of such a calamity…well…maybe they would if somebody else was working on the kit! [(-D]

9

The M26 is a nice tank. Here’s a list of tweaks if you want:

  1. Make sure you blend in the shell ejection port into the left turret wall.
  2. remove the mount for the infantry phone if you’re doing a WW2 version.
  3. Blend in the area near the trunnions, behind the mantlet
  4. Tamiya shortcuts the shock absorbers to keep their suspension moveable. I cut their lower portions off and replaced with longer rod. I still left them unconnected but you can’t see that behind the wheel
  5. replace the fender locker handles with ones from Tiger Model Designs
  6. Make lightening cut outs in the drive sprocket
  7. Maybe use WW2Productions replacement tracks?

Feel free to contact me offsite. Below are some useful images too.

http://ferreamole.it/images/pershing_man/m_26_pers_01m.htm

http://ferreamole.it/images/pershing_man/m_26_pers_02m.htm

10

Circuitrider: I can’t add any more than what’s been said for the scratches, but I think I can help you on the dust and dirt because I am going for almost the exact same look on my “Jimmy”. I have yet to post the final product, but I plan to late tomorrow (in GB’s and in Armor). If you like the look, let me know and I’ll give you more specific details…it’s not that hard, just a lot of layering and drying time…Oh, and a little heads up, stock up on Tamiya Buff XF-57…it’s a dead ringer for the dust/dirt color on that Sherman!!!..

11

Thanks for the input, gents! Roy, PM inbound.

SMJ…PLEASE! Any specifics would be greatly received! Your completed project looks great BTW. Got plenty of the Buff stuff, but I’ve never used it for “dust-up”.

12

Scratches are pretty basic to replicate. As for the dust, the application of pigments along with some creative layering of colors with the airbrush make a realistic presentation:

Many modelers simply 'cake on the pastels or pigments over the base OD. It is necessary to ‘lighten’ the base first. Paint the tank and shadow the same way the sun would hit it…then comes the ‘dust’:

regards

Steve