I’ve searched and found plenty of whitewash techniques…but most of them are for creating a look where the entire vehicle is white, and the transition between whitewash and original paint color looks too soft and blended…pleasing to look at, but it looks too much like an artistic touch to me. What technique do you guys use for making a “flakey” and jagged edged “chipped” whitewash appearance? For example on the schurtzen on this Panzer from Euromilitaire 06?
Here’s one that’s sort of in between…chipped in parts, blended in others:
And last, a picture of the kind I DON’T like the look of, not saying it’s right or wrong, I just don’t like that.
[2c] Due to the size of the first picture, I’m not sure. The second picture, I’m almost certain, is the hairspray method. This method is probably what was used in the first pic, but worked in a different manner.
Yep. Do the hairspray in light mists… maybe a couple of times. If it is too thick, it will crack when you add water and begin the chipping effect. What the heck, give it a day to dry…that’s what I did. Only use acrylic for the secondary coat after the hairspray, the initial basecoat is up to you… …
Don’t flood the overspray w/water or the paint will just come off in a sheet. I start my [%-)] scratching within 45 to 60 minutes of applying. Don’t get excited but stay focused. The longer it dries the more aggressive you have to be to get the technique to work. Do a section at a time and work it with a damp brush or put a little water (localized) on it with a brush and scratch it with a toothpick or different brushes of varying stiffness and in different directions carefully.
The best way I’ve found is to seal your basecoat with a strong lacquer, then airbrush thinned Vallejo white for the whitewash. Once that’s dry, airbrush a light coat of rubbing alcohol onto the model, and let it sit for about 30 seconds. Then blot the paint with a loosely crumpled tissue (the more you crumple it, the more and the finer the chips will be. Keep in mind that using a brush or foam/scotchbrite for the chipping won’t work like it does when you are adding paint chips over the top of the basecoat.
I did all that on my Totenkopf Panther G - it’s got some pretty heavy chipping, to the point where the white is almost gone, but this method also works for a less worn coat, like the KV.
Even that Stug won the Euromilitary award, I dont like the way the whitewash turn out.
References said that, most whitewash was done in the field using what ever available to blanket the entire tank with white paint. So, there has to be drips, fading, and area that is just covered so thick with paint.
With the Euro Stug, it does not have the above characteristic. Just chips.
The Second tank however is the prefered whitewash.
Steve, just curious–do you know what exactly is the PURPOSE of the “hair spray” coat? And is there a brand you recommend?
If this were still the 80’s, my hair would have told you that Industrial-Strength “Aqua Net” was the way to go for hold–man, I was a full 9 inches taller back then than I am today! [(-D]
[(-D] I can just see all that hair going “up” —> ==:] …in the other direction. I bet you got a lot of that [8)] flakey look just using all that much hairspray, he he. Any well groomed, weathered tank should not be without it on a Saturday night at the forum…
Anyway, here’s my opinion. I’m thinking the hairspray acts as a kind of water soluble agent between the layers of paint and will compromise the paints ability to get a grip, so to speak. Some people think of hairspray as laquer (I guess that comes from seeing all those [yuck] case-hardened beehives from the sixties) …hairspray is water based.
Apply a basecoat of an oil based paint followed with the hairspray and then airbrush with an acrylic paint. It seems that as you pick and dampen an area to remove the paint, the hairspray will release its hold on the underlying coat and allow the top coat of paint and underlying hairspray to flake or slide away, depending on what you use to remove the paint with. The initial coat is, as I said, oil based and it is the only layer that cannot be removed in this manner. This technique will not work if you are using oil based paints exclusively. You can also, with care, do this in multiple layers giving more depth to the finish. …Caution. Plan what you want it to look like if you do multiple layers as it can get complex and confusing real fast.
Here’s the bargain. [:D][tup]You can use that 'ol cheap hairspray for about a buck from down at the Dollar store.
[#toast] Ain’t weathering wonderful… just ain’t no other way.
There is one more method that was kinna left out; mapping method.
Basically you just randomly apply the 1st whitewash using strippling method. Then do a different white in another area using the same method. Then do again with a different white until you are satisfied with the result
