I’m starting to make small bases for my models like I’ve seen others do. The first ones have been grass which is easy, I just cut a piece of model RR grass sheet and glue it down. Not real fancy but I think it really enhances the look of a model.
I’d also like to do some dirt strip or desert type bases, but, I’m not sure how how to best attach the dirt. As far as I know there is not sheet of dirt like there is the grass.
Thanks
Hi Aaron,
Maybe you might put a thin layer of white glue down on the base- wherever you will want the dirt. Then, cover it with real fine sand, if not pigment (for the scale you work in). You can lay down tracks from the landing gear after it sets up a bit. Then, go over it with with paint, or any other medium, to shade and highlight. Maybe a burnt umber wash or two…
Just a thought ; )
This nis a tried and true method.
You need two dropper bottles. The first has water with a couple of drops of detergent. The second has 25% white glue 75% water.
Get the dirt in the right spot, drip on the detergent all over the dirt. This will break the surface tension for the next step.
Drip the white glue solution all over the dirt. It will look awful, at first but will dry and everything will be glued in place and look matte.
Good luck.
I wouldn’t glue dirt (or a grass mat-in fact I wouldn’t use a grass mat. Okay, I confess, I did 35 years ago.) directly to a base. Lay at least a thin layer of something along the lines of Celluclay. To replicate sand, dirt, etc. add fine railroad ballast to the mix along with a some acrylic craft paint of the appropriate color. When dry, apply washes and dry brush to bring out the texture. I’d do the same with a grassy surface using static grass over the Cellucaly base. The only circumstance where I’d glue a surface directly to a base would be to represent a tarmac (black top or cement) which is artificially flat. Any natural surface will have an organic inconsistency to it.
I thought about smearing white glue over the base but didn’t know how that would work out. Vespa boy, I will definately give that a try, it sounds very simple which I like.
ajlafleche, for this particular use I’m trying to keep it simple (it takes me long enough to build the models) and I figure an area of 24-36 feet that an airplane would be parked on it, would be pretty close to flat in 1/72. I have some clump grass and wildflowers I will probably scatter onto some of the flat bases once I get comfortable working with them to break up the continuity.
I do have some celluclay I was going to use for bases with figures, armor or helicopters where there should definately be more variety, but trying to walk before I run. [:D]
Thanks
Ditto… Ye Auld Model Railroader methods are still the best ones… Note: You DO have to plan ahead though… You need to make tracks and foot prints BEFORE you start glueing, or immediately after, while still wet, otherwise it looks like your stuff was dropped in by helicopter…
Consider using the ground foam for model railroading-although I never tried it make tracks and stuff. To glue it down, first it must be wet-overspray with a mixture of water, rubbing alcohol and a tiny drop of dishwashing detergent. I used an emptied hairspray bottle (pump kind) as it gives a very fine spray, and sprayed into the air above to allow the mist to wet it without disturbing the placement. Then using either landscape cement made for this, or a diluted solution of white glue, either overspray it or use an eyedropper to flood the area. Be careful with eyedropper as, if it is dripped too far above it, you will end up with little moon craters!
That stuff looks ok in small scales Jim, but in 1/48th and 1/35th, it looks like what it is; Shredded Foam…
Instead of white glue you can also try using heavy gel mediums- they’re designed to go with acrylic paints to make them thicker bodied. You can find the stuff at any art supply stores. If you mix the paint with gel and the dirt you can just paint it all on- the texture will be there, the color will be there- the hard part would be putting in the tracks… might have to put the groundwork pattern in first- then coat the groundwork with the dirt/paint mix. That’s how I would go about it but as you can see there’s more than one way to tackle it.
I didn’t know that. Just trying to help…
I know, no sweat… I too used it early on, but it never looked quite “right” to me, and that’s when I figure out why, lol… It looked like foam… Looks great on an HO model railroad (and even 1/72 dioramas), but that’s about as far as it goes… When you get into 1/48th and especially up into 1/32-1/35 scale, individual blades of grass, leaves, vines, etc, are visible…
Excellent ground effects can be made with Durham’s rock hard Water Putty by itself.
For a flat area it can go right on the base but if you want any high bumps or grades, some carved foam for the basic shape is good. Spread the paste, mix according to directions, and spread to your final shape. While it is wet sprinkle a layer of the powder on top and then let it dry undisturbed. If you need to add footprints or track marks, do it now. When the putty hardens, brush off the loose powder. Paint it up and it looks nice.
AND WEAR A MASK. You don’t want to breather a powder that gets hard with liquid.
Hey Wing-nut,where do you get that product [ Durhams ] ? Thanks, rudedog
Aaron,
I use the Celluclay method as well. While it may take a little time and preplanning the results are worth it.
Start small and work your way up to more detailed scenes.
Best of luck…
Ace hardware carries it… at least 'round here. Used to get it at Lowe’s.
Thanks ,Wing-nut on the location where to get Durhams. rudedog
I also use Durhams mixed with Elmers, craft paint and crushed kitty litter. The kitty litter can be crushed to provide a wide texture range. When dry, you can add more colors drybrushing with craft paints. Then add some static grass. Home Depot carries it too. It gives you enough time to work with it and dries faster than Elmers Wood Filler.
The absolute best thing you can use for dirt is…surprise; real dirt.
Just go to a high-traffic area–the entry area or working area of a construction site is perfect–and get dirt thathas been pummeled and pressed into fine dust. Sun-baked is preferable, as it dries it out. The sun and the pounding kill any organic matter that might otherwise bloom or germinate in it.
I use this fine bridal veil called “tulle” (pronounced “tool”) to further sift and refine the dirt, and then attach it with regular white glue. You can seal it with Dullcoat or flat lacquer. If you want to place it over a grass bed, lay down a thicker coat of dullcoat sprayed over the grass. It’ll dry up nice and hard. Simple, really.
Karl (The Doog) is 100% right here. Sifted dirt is the way to go to make scale dirt.
One further refinement is using graded meshes to sift the dirt, then you can use the fines for the heaviest traffic areas and make all kinds of mixtures to get ruts, path edges etc. Its texture that adds a whole lot visually without a whole lot of effort.
Yupper, that’s what I use too… Dirt is already the right color so why bother with anything else? I go sown to the local ball-diamond for mine… It’s reslly a nice, fine dirst thats free of any knida organic junk and workd unsifted for large-scale stuff, and for 1/48th it sifts out to almost a powder…