hello
I need to repair an area of plastic on my Mig 29A. So I applied some testor’s Contour putty. However it doesn’t look very professional. The area where I applied it appears bumpy and unfinished even after sanding. I was wondering if anyone has a good way of applying the putty and make it look consistent(smooth) with the rest of the model
Thank you
Scott
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Scott,
This is just my way, don’t take it as the only way. I only fill the gap with enough putty to fill the gap.I get a little putty on a fingertip and press it into the gap and clean any excess with alcohol. I will let it dry to see how much it shrinks; usually not much if any, then i will cut a strip of sand paper and wrap it around the tip of my finger if the curve I am sanding is big enough. If I applied the putty correctly, the sanding is minimal and will not mess up any detail near the seam. I sometimes will need to re scribe the lines but others, not.I hope this helps and will give you a start to develop your own technique.
Ben
Testors Contour putty (white/grey tube) is perhaps the worst of all “hobby branded” putties. What doesn’t crumble and fall off dries to the hardness and consistency of concrete and is near impossible to sand to a smooth finish.
If you must use a hobby brand putty, try Squadron’s putty, thin with liquid cement and apply thin layers with a brush. Apply masking tape on either side of the seam you are working to minimise putty going where you don’t want it. When dry, wet sand with 400 grit wet and dry paper, working up through 600 to 800 grit.
Many people here also use automotive spot/glazing putty as alternatives to hobby brand putties.
Don’t use it! Toss it away before you ruin something.
Read this post Perfect Seams it covers application of putty and the type I recommend.
Thanks for the advice everyone.
HawkeyeHobbies: Cool website, very informative
Unfortunately I already applied the Testors putty. Now I have to sand even more to try and salvage the Mig 29A. I hate messing up on a model. But I guess that is how you learn
Scott
Testor’s Contour Putty is a harsh mistress to learn…but it is possible. Yes, it is hard to apply(when applying you got one shot, if you go over it again the putty will simply pull out.) As for sanding, simply get some wet/dry extra fine sandpaper, it does the job for me.
The best use for Testors putty is to add bulk to the nearest trash can. I use 3M Blue as my new favorite putty but there is also a place for Apoxie Sculpt, My homemade “Sprue Goo”, CA glues, Dr. Microtool, and even Squadron Green from time to time.
I have another type of putty. Is it the same as testors putty. I just found it on my shelf.
It is Tamiya putty. Should I just throw it out like the testors putty.
Thanks
Scott
Hello Hawkeye Hobbies
I read your article for Weld-on 3 using a Touch-n-Flow applicator
I want to try it out on my FA-18E Super Hornet where there seems to be a lot of visible seems
Can you tell me where the best place for me to buy this product in Canada because there are issues on getting this material across the border.
Thank you.
Scott
I dont have access to a hobby store or such, seeing as Im stuck at my dorm, so I am stuck using the Testor’s Putty as well. However, i found that if i go over the Putty beore it dries with a paintbrush dipped in paint thinner, it helps smooth it down and makes it easier to get into gaps. That is just what I found to work. Hope that helps a little!
OWL
I would imagine that there has to be a place that sells commercial plastic supplies in Canada. Weld-On is used to make acrylic display cases and tanks. You can visit the mfr website to see if they have a distributor/dealer in Canada. It can be shipped via UPS.
After you apply it, smooth it down with a finger dipped in rubbing alcohol… Rubbing alcohol thins Testor’s putty quite nicely…
I tried smoothing the testor’s putty with rubbing alcohol and it worked very well.
Thanks for the tip
Scott
If you had to buy 1 putty, what would you buy???
i use tamiya putty, which i find really good, its a bit messy but the way i do it is a put a blob at the start of the seam, lick my finger (as long as its not too dirty) and then smear the putty along the seam. this works great. but like i said is quite messy and takes alot of effort to get off skin.
Aves (for the larger gaps), since it has a long setup time and can be smoothed out with water. 3M Acryl Blue for smaller imperfections - sets up very fast and feathers and sands well. Gerald’s advice is best though: avoid seams and gaps to begin with, if possible, using a solvent like Weld-On #3.
Squadron putty is very good. If you do not have a hobby shop near by, try any auto parts supply store and even Walmart for Bondo glazing putty. Comes in a small or med. size tube, its cheap. Its red in color, spreads evenly and easily. Dries very fast and works great.
3M acrylic blue is $30 bucks! Ouch!
Where did you see that ? Amazon has it for $17.00 for a tube that should last practically a lifetime:
napa auto parts.