Just got my T&C(Badger) Omni Matrix 4000G not even 5 minutes ago! Now I need to get off my arse and go pick up a water trap for the compressor Ive had for roughly a week and still havent bought one!
If this thing is really as good as it sounds the Ole Paasche might have to find a new home via Ebay!
MikeV thanks for all your help and telling me what I needed to know…I’ll be sure to keep you up to date on how I like it and how it works!
LOL To true Chris…but until I pick up the moisture trap…I’ll Stick to posting.
Dixie Art has some great service. They took a while to process my order as I left off my dang zipcode(My fault) DOH! But once they called me and got my zipcode the item arrived very quickly! I havent been to New Orleans in a while…its only 3 hours away maybe next time I need to order something Ill call them and see if I can pick it up…so I dont have to wait a day or 2 LOL[;)]
I have to try this baby out this weekend.
I would like to polish the inside of the color cup though as the finish is slightly dull and would be easier to clean with a nice, shiny surface on it.
Do you have any Medea Super Lube or Badger Needle Juice for your airbrushes? I put some Super Lube on my new Omni and it smoothed it up a bit. They are a bit rough from the factory dry. I pulled the needle out and it was binding a bit coming out so I covered the front half of the needle with Super Lube and also put some on all of the trigger parts including the rocker lever mechanism inside the body of the airbrush.
It will loosen up even more after use but they are a bit rough at first.
That is why Iwata airbrushes are more expensive as they tend to polish them up and make them smoother from the start.
I guess I am going to have to break down and buy an Eclipse CS one of these days to compare them. [:D][;)]
Well, I talked to my buddy Scooter about this new Omni 4000 and asked about the color cup being dull inside and this is what he said:
“Mike,
The inside of the cup and the interior of the gun are not plated, and it is intentional. Plating would screw up the tight tolerances of the gun on the inside and it would lose its accuracy. The cup still cleans up just fine.
Nothing to worry about. One thing I would do though is to get some automotive valve lapping compound. Put a tiny bit of it on the tip of the needle and then insert the needle. Rotate the needle against the tip with mild pressure for a minute or so. Flush the airbrush thoroughly with windex or airbrush cleaner. You just mated the tip and needle and it will give you an evenfiner line.”
Mike thanks for the link with the moisture trap…Ive looked at it and am seriously considering ordering it. The only thing though is my compressor already has a regulator so, how would I set them both? Leave the compressor regulator wide open and make the PSI adjustment on the moisture trap/regulator unit?
Thanks again for all the info…
That is how I did it with my Craftsman industrial compressor.
You really don’t even need to turn the regulator up all the way on the compressor unless you plan on spraying T-shirts or something at 60-100 psi. [:D]
Just turn the compressor’s regulator up as much as you would like and then turn the regulator/moisture trap up to the desired pressure you want to spray at.
I would recommend that you loosen both regulators after you are finished painting though as they have springs in them and it is best for them to have the spring tension relieved after each painting session.
Okay, forgive my ignorance, but what in the world is a moisture trap? It collects moisture from the compressor because gas at high pressures (as in a compressor) turns into a liquid and could ruin your paint mix/model/airbrush? did i get it right?
Oh, and MikeV, (i hear you’re the airbrush expert [;)]), what have you heard about the Mr. Hobby or Gunze-Sanyo Airbrushes? there seem to be a lot of them at my LHS. Thanks, guys!
Pretty close. [;)] Actually, compressors produce heat and heat in turn creates moisture in the air lines.
I don’t know anything about them, sorry. From the little I could find on the web they look like they may be manufactured in the Iwata plant, but I am not sure.
I would stick with Badger, Thayer & Chandler, Iwata, or Paasche personally.