http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/modelpages/ACheahSturmG.htm i want to know how to do those lottle blacl lines/ scrapes on the side of the armor skirt. thanks guys.[:p]
Hey juniormodeler… I can bet dollars to donuts that all that modeller did was use a dark grey paint and a 00 or 000 brush and brushed them on. That is what I usually do using Vallejo dark grey. Very unlikely it was a mask. Here it is on a Stug III I had posted a while back…
thanks, nice stug i am currently building one.
Juniormodeler,
I can’t say how this person did their scrapes, but I did this on my Sherman http://community.webshots.com/sym/image5/2/99/11/66129911lBfRwU_ph.jpg and this is how I did it.
I used Testors rubber paint thinned a little. I used a combination of a splintered toothpick and a 00 brush to apply the scratches. The toothpick was dipped in the paint then wiped on a rag once or twice. I then dragged it down the side of the hull and over some details to represent long scratches. The OO brush was used to apply more deliberate marks around hatches and lifting hooks ect… I then over painted some areas with a slightly different shade of green to represent touchups made by the crew…and to fix some oops;-)
Lastly I oversprayed a THIN dust color to blend in the scratches with the other weathering.
Only one word of caution. While this looks cool and adds to the look fo the model, be careful not to overdue it. I think i did a little on my Sherman.
Anyway I hope this helps some.
Regards
Kenneth
I think I put in the wrong link above…try this one if it doesn’t work.
http://community.webshots.com/sym/image5/2/99/1/66129901lGDvMg_ph.jpg
KC
both links don’t work. Actually the message is “Forbidden Access”
ONCE MORE {
http://community.webshots.com/album/66054897nbmVec
Ok now…just look at the bottom pictures. The sides of the Sherman…
regards
Kenneth
thanks. that sherman i awsome dude![:p]
whats a splintered toothpick and what rubber paint?
The splintered toothpick is just that. I take a toothpick or some other piece of wood (woods with a stringy grain, like bamboo skews (for shishkabobs) work very well too) anyway, breaking them gets you dozens of random FINE points that work well for scratches.
Testors paints (the little cheap enamal bottles) has a color called “rubber” Its a brown with a tad of redish tint. Ironically it looks like crap on tires, but works extremely will for painting old bare steel scratches. they should rename the color “scratch” or “bare spot” or something like that…;^)
I hope this helps.
Oh and glad you like the Sherman
Kenneth
cool, ill try it. and i like the name scratch lol. [;)]
A technique that I have used for chipped paint requires some thinking ahead. As always I start with a base coat, then apply the color you want the scratches to be in, usually metallic, or rust color. Then apply rubber cement with a toothpick (these will be the scratches). I like rubber cement because it is hard to work with, and the scratches come out quite randomly. After applying the rubber cement I finish up with applying the final color. This works really well for chipped winter paint schemes!!! Once the final coat or coats are on, remove the rubber cement. Voila, chipped paint!!
A couple notes about this method: Rubber cement is by far the best mask I have found yet because it is to easy to remove. BUT do be careful when applying it, it is easy to get carried away, and before you know it, you have one big paint chip.
Next it is best to do streaks or runs by using a semi dry brush and pulling down from the top. Colors for these can be anything from light yellow, to black. The color would obviously depend on whether you are trying to represent grease stains, dirt that has streaked from rain, rust, or in rare cases running paint. I have also used thinned colors (a little darker mixture than what you would use for washes) for this process too. If you use thinned colors, you will have to use a small amount. You will not be able to just let the paint run down, you need to brush the streaks where you want them.
I would suggest doing your washes and dry brushing after these before mentioned steps. That way if you over do it a little, you can tone it down some.
Hope this advice can be of some use, and good luck.[;)]
oh yah, and always test new methods on scrap…
cool thanks
I use a method similar to that described by edog. I start by priming the model with the ‘naked’ metallic color, then airbrush PLENTY of future on it, and once it’s dried, I airbrush the final color scheme. Once the paint cures, I take some fine grit sandpaper and sand away the paint from the surfaces to show the metallic color underneath. The future protects the base color from the sanding, but be careful anyway, or else you migh end up with some bare plastic showing through. That works great for leading edges of wings and stuff like that. You can also try ‘scratching’ the paint with some metal wool (I just raid my wife’s supply at the kitchen). Nothing simulates scratches on paint better than actual scratches on paint!!!