Read my old unit 1/5 went from 105 towed to Paladin and am building the AFV club. I saw some pics of their new howitzer and it’s painted a sand color. I have no access to an airbrush and using a RGB color picker on my computer shows that none of the rattle can’s on the hobby sites came close to matching the color on the photos. It dawned on me that I had some spray left from something else that looked very close.
I’m posting this and maybe you folks can tell me what you think.
Glenn, I tested my iPad Pro screen and it’s as accurate as the best desktop monitor with high quality color graphics. The plastic can top looks a shade or two lighter than your color sample. James (Snapdragonxxx) always had me paint a plastic spoon and check it against the color sample in the sun light. You might find out the plastic can top is different than the actual paint inside the can.
On my screen the can top looks closer than the color sample to the M109A6 in the picture. I don’t think you could go wrong if the paint in the can matches the plastic can top.
It’s the same situation we had in Vietnam with diesel fuel wash-down and sun fading the plaint. The color changes when a vehicle is in the field a little while. In a Battery of M109A6 there may be six different shades of desert sand color.
As a former retail paint dept. manager – who mixed custom paints by eye on a daily basis in the days before computer matching – I’d say the hue and color balance are nearly dead-on. It will likely spray a touch darker than your photo…which should be perfect to be ‘filtered’ and weathered, if that is your plan.
Thanks guys. Using the digital color meter that comes on Macs. one RGB is 234/208/180, the other is 217,191,160. Arty the paint is Rustoleum American Accents ivory silk satin
After having been around desert sand vehicles, I don’t really “care” about accurately matching the paint. On some of our tanks, the sides that got a lot of sunlight bleached to a lighter color than the sides that stayed in the shade or under the tarps.
It wasn’t too too noticeable, but if you looked closely, the unbleached side had a slightly yellow tint to it.
Personally, I’d go for it. Rember weathering and washes will help. Incidentaly, you have some great photos on your Flickr album. Thanks very much for sharing.
The color looks okay to me. But, I would be careful using Rustoleum because of the volume of paint that sprays out. I have used it on some sailing ship models, but it was a steep learning curve. I like the idea of practicing on scrap plastic before using it to paint a model.
Good enough! Your primer and finish will affect the overall color also.
I also recommend not using Testor’s Dullcoat or Gloss over the Rust-o-leum (ask me how I know). Anything that is “hot”. An acrylic wash or coat is the way to go.
Here’s an old tip. On the use of model paint we were told to warm the can in some warm water in a bowl or pot. That way it would spray finer. Guess What? The same is true for any of Rustoleum products.
You still get a larger volume that you have to work with. That said.The paint sure does lay down smooth though.
Listen, you are so correct.There is an alternative though. To prevent those problems I use a Craftint brand Clear Gloss acrylic. This is one I have used on paper and plastic since they put the stuff in a spray can. Not Sorry,Yet!
I agree that Rustoleum paint does lay down smooth. I like using it on big surfaces, and it does offer some colors that would be difficult to find in model paint.
I routinely use Testors Model Master Gloos Caot and Dull Coat from a spray can or from the airbrush over Rustoleum spray paints without any problems. Most of my single-color builds are painted w/Rustoleum spray paints. They have some great colors that work well for military vehicles.
Screen Shot 2020-09-20 at 12.51.22 PM by Glenn Hanson, on Flickr