Kyle Lord of East Providence, RI picked up my SNOWBERRY from ROG (1:144) and my G-5 from Merit (1:35) yesterday. He and his girlfriend, Amanda are very nice people.
He has already started the HMCS SNOWBERRY as the USS SAUCY. The first thing he did was to wash the kit to get the residue of the releasing agent from the molding process off. Secondly, he put the two halves of the hull together. I picked up some brass light finnels for him to use as pedestals (on both kits). He mentioned in an email that he is going to be using some “generic” PE railings to replace the kit’s thickish railings. I agreed with him on that.
Here are more photos of the build, putting the depth charges together, putting the CSA generators together, doing something to the prop, and painting the decks. Be advised, Kyle says the seams on the hull are difficult to line up and there is flash as well as seams on the depth charges, but other than that, he likes it. Oh, yeah, he did say there is warpage where the decks and hull meet. be advised, Kyle says the seams on the hull are difficult to line up and there is flash as well as seams on the depth charges, but other than that, he likes it. Oh, yeah, he did say there is warpage where the decks and hull meet. Tim
Thanks for these. I am thinking of getting either this kit or the 1/72 scale, still debatting. One thing, what kind of finnels are best for these models? I am looking to use some as a pedestal for a HMCS Huron model I just finished to attach to my first homemade display case. And how are they attached to the model? To the display base? Drilling holes? Thanks mate
Just go to your local hardware store or light store and look through what they have for finnels, sir. See what catches your eye. For my SAUCY, I chose very simple “tall” finnels. For my G-5 - I chose fat and squat ones. As for attachment? You need to drill (carefully) through the keel and hull and reinforce where you drill.
The term, should you wish to google first is “finial.” These can be found among lamp parts.
For attachment, various methods can be used.
I have used stubby Molly bolts, wher you need a hole that admits the entire fastener, then tightening the fastener expands the sides of the bolt which then clamps down on the hulll. This is very suefull if you find you need to mount and unmount the hull. Mollys are also handy if you want to wire lighting into a kit, as you can use one for the positive and the other for the negative.
Alternately, a bolt like a hex head can be epoxied to the inside of the hull, passing through a drilled hole. If you have not decided ona finial (or a final display height) get longer bolts than you need so you can trim them as needed.
Another way may modelers use is to epoxy a stout piece of hard wood (nothing soft like balsa) inside the hulll. A pilot hole is drilled from the outside of he hull and into the block, with a final diameter hole shallowly boerd only though the hull itself. A wood screw is then passed through the base, the finials, and then into the block within the hull.
The downside to wood screws is that they can’t be backed out too often, and you have to be careful not to strip the hole, too (a possibility if you use too large a pilot hole).
The most exotic way to mount a kit is one I’ve not yet tried. You glue rare-earth magnets inside the hull, and use steel bolts cut flush with the finials to attach the kit. Rare-earth magnets have a powerful pull at close range, and thus have significant gripping power.
Kyle sent me an update today, and here it is. These are his words: Decks are masked and ready for weathering deck blue which will be a mix of dark gray and field blue at half each. Bottom of the hull has been sanded though I filled the low spot again as it wasn’t quite right. Stern piece is glued in and was filled though not pictured. The upper surface was sprayed with Tamiya white with a small amount of light grey added. Prop has been primed and is waiting to be painted bronze.
Good morning, guys … Kyle sent me a few updates today. I am really impressed with Kyle’s work. He’s doing a good job on this kit, even with its shortcomings. Frankly, I am amazed at his work and his progress … This is the gist of all of his emails and a ton of new photos: “Glued the strake. Parts on the hull, really not sure what they are and primed the bottom of the hull this morning. Going to do another coat of primer and will smooth out tonight. Here she is, the color is interesting from the top it shows gray, from a slight angle it’s blue.” Tim
One type is like a tube, and a long bolt can be inserted through. Those are easily usable. They tend to be sort of constant in section from one end to the other.
The other type has a blind threaded hole in each end. Those are hard to use without chucking them in a lathe and drilling them through. These are the ones that haves a more decorative look, like a chess pawn.
So when you are at the hardware store looking at the selection, think through how you will use it.
Hi Guys. Kyle just sent me another update this morning. He’s moving right along … This is what he said, “…quick update. Bottom of the hull was given a mist of flat black and faired using a sanding stick. It will be smoothed using 600 grit and final primed. The stern piece has been faired including the seam that will show on the inside.” Tim
There is another " finial " exercise too . I use "Twisted " cast acrylic posts or cast " Bubble " posts and machine the threads from the bottom of the ship into the post .
Then I do the same in the base wood .This way you have a good solid anchor that does not flex and the light catches the posts and draws the eye to the model .
By countersinking the hole in the wood base allows a good snug fit for the bolts .Stainless bolts should be used . This way no moisture can discolor the posts . T.B.
Excellent thread everyone. Being fairly new to the model scene, I am learning everyday. I have only built two warships so far, the HMCS Huron and the HMS Prince of Wales. Since both are completed, I will be looking at finials that I can screw into the hull and in the wooden base of the display case which I also build from scratch. Those too are a hobby in themselves!! The HMCS Snowberry will happen, I just need to catch up on the kits I have on-deck and get more experience under my belt.
Kyle sent me an update and this what he said, “I temporarily put the deck on to see the whole color scheme. Couldn’t help but do a mockup. I assembled two little gun mounts, they will be painted white and the guns dark gunmetal before assembly. Not pictured but I have an assortment of small parts ready to be primer. Also not pictured but the waterline has been marked and taped and will be sprayed when the weather improves. Lastly I drilled holes in the bottom, fabricated hardwood blocks and epoxied them in place. These will be drilled, tapped 10-24, then hardened with super glue. The finials will be chucked in the lathe, turned down and be threaded 10-24. The finials will thread into the hull, then bolts will pass through the base into the finials.” Here are some photos: Tim
Kyle sent me an update this morning – he’s putting together the sub-assemblies of the kit. He also glued part of the decking to the hull … Yesterday, he attached some pieces of hard wood to the interior of the hull where the pedestals will be screwed into … Here are some photos of the progress …
Tim
Tim
Tim
