There are instances I would really like to paint from a rattle can. Example; I’ve yet to find a primer that I trust and can shoot through my airbrush. I like Tamiya fine lacquer primers, but I just cannot seem to control the application from a rattle can. I get it on too heavy, end up with runs and filled details and such.
Any general tips on learning to apply and control spray can applications much appreciated.
Greg,the best tip I can give is to apply light coats, at least 8-12 inches from the subject, and start/stop spraying off the model with smooth strokes.
I’m just getting the hang of Vallejo primers and am starting to like them. They’re supposed to be airbrush-ready, but I prefer to thin them 10 or 20 percent. (1-2 drops of thinner or water per 10 drops paint).
Much of the secret is to start spraying behind or ahead of the model, move your arm relatively fast in a sweeping motion back and forth no more than two or three times. You want to mist on a very light coat. After it dries, repeat as necessary. Keep it moving, don’t stop anywhere on the model.
I think you’ve both nailed my problem. I need to heed your advice if I want to make this work. Thank you both for taking the time to comment!
Jeroen, now there is a thought. I am just getting started with Vallejo Model Air colors and so far very much liking them. I will have to look into the primers they have available and give then a try. I didn’t realise Vallejo offered a primer, so this is quite interesting news indeed.
One key to good spray can painting is the right brand of paint. Some have excellent nozzels/spray heads, some are junk. You may have to experiment to find good ones. I find Testors model paints to have good spray heads, Krylon general purpose paints do to. Many brands put on extremely thick, heavy coats, though.
Warming the can in some nice warm water, (not hot,) for a few minutes before painting can produce a better flow, then the paint is a bit more likely to lay down in a nice flat surface. Caution: That does make it thinner, so follow the advice to make wider, sweeping passes, start spray before reaching the area, release after, make straight lines, not circles.
Don’t get too close, or back too far. Experiment with distance on scrap, shiny printed cardboard, you’ll soon see what distance works best. Too close = thick and runs, too far = rough, pebbly surface, the droplets begin drying before hitting the desired surface.
When finished with the job, spray the can upside down until only air comes out. Then keep a jar with compatible thinner handy, take the nozzle out of the can and place submerged in the thinner. It will keep the nozzle clear and usable for as long as you keep the can. With nozzle out of the can, place a few drops of thinner into the can’s nozzle receptacle, that helps remove traces of paint left behind which can dry, leading to a poor fit when reinserting the nozzle next time.
4.If you have virtually any airbrush, Model Master Flat Enamels make an excellent final primer and sand out beautifully. Spray on the area to be primed, wait at least one full day, then sand very lightly with 1200 grit. You’ll quickly see which areas need further priming/sanding, if any. But be sure to not spray final finish with lacquer base over the enamel.
Hope it helps you, good luck with your future model projects.
I don’t use rattle cans, but I can only recommend Vallejo or Alclad primers for airbrushing. I like Alclad’s primer a bit more, but that is personal preference.
Alclad primer is available in black, gray and white. It also serves as a microfiller. You might consider sanding the primed areas with very smooth sand-paper though, as that primer might produces a coarse finish.
I fing Vallejo’s primers harder to apply to a model, but they produce a very smooth surface if applied right. It is available in black, gray, white, olive drab, red brown, russian green, dark yellow,… The colors include almost every base-color used on WW2 armor.
Clemens, on your previous recommendation I acquired some Alclad primer. Have only done a couple test sprays so far, but I definitely see what you mean about needing a light sanding. I am still not certain if I got the Alclad primer with or without microfiller, on my list of things to check on. My head is swimming a bit trying to get handle on all of the products new (to me), and deciding which I will settle on and tend to use.
Odd you mentioned the Vallejo primers. Just ordered some from Squadron this morning. Interesting to hear that in your experience, the Alclad ‘sticks’ better.
I don’t know yet whether I will end up settling on rattle can or airbrush priming, but in either case the knowledge gained from all of the great replies here will be very helpful.
If it produces a coarse finish, it is the microfiller. That stuff is great for filling gaps which are too small for putty. Just spray some layers of the microfiller over the gap and sand it amooth afterwards…
My two cents on the Vallejo primers, as I do use them quite a bit.
I have their light grey primer, and that’s all I really use. It’s a form of acrylic, so it doesn’t ‘bite’ the same as a hot primer will (alclad). As mentioned above, it doesn’t hurt to thin it slightly (I also like 10-20%). Vallejo primers don’t really like remedial work (i.e. sanding, scribing) they flake rather than feather. For this, I use a thin neutral color of model air while I’m doing my surface work, once I am happy I use primer as a paint base. If it’s applied lightly in thin coats, it gives a nice rough surface for paint to adhere to. It takes no time to dry, but a day or two to properly cure. It also leaves all of the surface detail very clearly visible and unfilled.
Personally, I really like Vallejo’s products (with the exception of their washes) and if you’re into model air, I recommend buying some of their ‘mediums’ (gloss, glaze, matt) and playing with those, they make pre shading a dream when done right.
I know Vallejo makes their primers in a number of colors, I’ve heard nothing good about the white primer, so I’ve just stuck to grey. It’s a nice product, not too thick, no stink to it and once you get over not being able to sand it very well, it’s pretty easy to work with.
Andrew, very much appreciate you comments on Vallejo primer and Vellejo in general. Thank you!
My only real experience priming since I’ve been back has been with MM primer, and it was not a good experience. Also, it did not respond well to sanding or scribing. Had you not mentioned it, I probably would have thought no primers sand well.
I am ‘getting into’ Vallejo. Loving the way Model Air spays, like the way Model Color brushes, and at the moment am overwhelmed (and confused) by the range of products they have. I shall heed your advice and play with some of their mediums.
Since you are a Vallejo user, any chance you might know the difference between Vallejo thinners? I am seeing thinner medium, airbrush thinner, and yet another that just says ‘thinner’ in 3 languages. According to Vallejo, at every product description they suggest mixing a few drops when airbrushing. Can’t use em all, wouldn’t be any pigment left!
I can confirm the “nothing good” about the white primer. It doesn’t “bite” at all (worse than regular acrylic paint) and doesn’t flake, but literally peels off surfaces. It is necessary to thin it, as it is way too thick when used right out of the bottle, but the thinning (with Vallejo’s thinner and “premium thinner”) results in almost no coverage regarding the color. It is also a pain to get out of your airbrush, even with very “hot” thinners (I tried rubbing alcohol, water, Vallejo AB cleaner, Gunze acrylic thinner, Tamiya acrylic thinner, Vallejo acrylic thinner and even laquer thinner)
In short: Vallejo’s primers are good, but stay away from the white one. Rather use the gray primer and spray normal white paint on to of it.
This is only my experience and I never bought aq second bottle after having so much trouble with it, so I might just recieved a bad one…
Well, when I placed my Vallejo order the other day I ordered 2 grey primers, and 1 ea whi and black, so I might have wasted some money. Especially on the white. Of course I’ll play with it eventually.
I would like to avoid any non-acrylic primers if possible, but starting to sound like that may or may not happen.
I hadn’t even seen the premium reducer. Oh goodie, now it’s four thinners to confuse me. Seriously, thanks for the explanation of the 3 products you mentioned, Clemens.
In a couple days when my order arrives, perhaps I’ll take a pic of the thinner products I’m confused about, should make it easier to opine. Tried the liquitex flo-aid at 20:1 (liquitex : distilled water) this afternoon, jury is out until I can try one of the real thinners.
