Hi there - I have just started building the Aoshima Knight Rider kit and am working on the underside of the model.
I have to paint part of the exhaust silver and it that particuler section is moulded into the kit. I am finding it diffcult to hand paint this without the silver bleeding over into the black portion of the model. The is sunk slightly below the surface so its very cramped making masking extremly diffcult.
Just wondering if anyone has any hints or tips on how to paint a section like that.
First - the silver part in your picture isn’t exhaust - it’s a drive shaft, transmits power from the engine/transmission to the rear axle. This thing isn’t sheet metal like the exhaust, it’s heavy steel tube and it’s usually painted black (gloss) or maybe gray.
Any colour you paint it, you don’t have to paint all the way down to the edge - if you stay constantly, say, 1mm from that edge, it will look good.
If you wanted to save what you already have, I’d take a fine brush and try to touch up the bottom of the shaft opening with black paint, and then apply a black wash to the shaft opening - and that black wash will evenly “crawl” a bit up that shaft, making smooth colour transition from black to silver, simulating the shadow under the shaft that isn’t there but should be. That’s a trick figure painters use a lot - hide the colour edge in the shadow - I mean in the wash - then it looks nice and even.
Yes, that’s what I mean - you can use a ready-made wash or you can make one yourself by thinning the paint. As long as it works, which means it gathers in the crevices and leaves the flat surfaces relatively unaffected.
I’d just like to add that advice isn’t only to save what you already have. I don’t know of a better plan of attack in the first place other than to do that, just as Pawel said.
I’ve often wondered about this very thing, even though I’ve been doing this for decades. I’d sure like to hear other folks solutions, in a addition to Pawel’s neat idea which I’d never considered either.
This is a very good question! It’s a great real life modeling challenge.
Im sure that Pawel was being brief here, but you want to be cautious that the thinner you use will not affect the underlying paint. Let me expand a bit
1). Mix your media. If you painted with enamels, use a water or alcohol based paint/solvent as your wash medium.
2). Use a ‘milder’ solvent. Lacquer thinner is very hot and will affect underlying paint. Paint thinner is only a bit less so. Turpentine/turps is milder yet but still may be too hot. Try artist’s Turpenoid - mild & refined turpentine. Mixes well with artist’s oil paint.
3). Apply a barrier coat. Apply a coat of clear gloss over the paint before applying the wash. Future floor polish is pretty solid once it cures. It will stand up to most washes, solvent or aqueous
These are some suggestions. Try any or all as your skills progress. Ask back with particular questions.
