How do you use micro mask on clear canopys to paint the metal frame? Are there any good ways to apply it? I.E . Tricks? The instructions on the bottle are no help. Thanks for the help.[:)]
The only thing I can think of is to coat the entire canopy with the liquid then cut out the framing with a VERY sharp knife. I have not used that medium very much but I would like to try other applications with it. Masking tape gets too tedious.
When using that kind of liquid mask, I paint the individual glass panes - starting with the edges then paint towards the center. the stuff will want to run down so do several thin coats (also drys faster that way)
I paint the entire canopy with the liquid masking, usually two coats about an hour apart, let it dry for day, then score around the frames with a new #11 X-acto blade. Peel off the part on the frame and spray or brush paint the cockpit interior color, then whatever the outside color will be. Peel of the panels and maybe a little touch up. If some adhesive residue remains, use a dab of Goo Gone to remove it. I also dip the entire canopy in Future and let it dry before any masking or painting.
Darwin, O.F. [alien]
Thanks for all the info guys…I didnt want to screw up the canopy of this bird. Ive only been working on it for almost 4 years! (On and off of course) Its a Tamiya 1/48 scale Birdcage Corsair. And shes gonna be from VMF 214. Thanks again for the help![:)]
hmmm.i used a tooth pick to paint it [:D]
Nick, i used to do that too. Devildog, like Mark said, make sure it’s a SHARP knife. and thin coats. on my B-17 i used thick coats because i was (and still am) impatient. just take your time and make it great!
The Micro Mask I have is water based and I must use enamel paints. I wouldn’t want you to ruin all that work using acrylics if you have the same Micro mask.
Joe Montanti
Joe,
Excellent point. I have micro mask from the same company that make Micro Sol and Micro Set and also some from the Micro Mark tool catalog. Both are water based and CANNOT be used with acrylic paints.
Darwin, O.F. [alien]
Personally, I really don’t care much for MicroMask–I tried to use some once for a different application than you’re attempting (masking off molded detail on a ship deck before painting) and really didn’t get good results–I found it much too difficult to remove once the paint was dry. I suppose dipping the canopy in Future and letting it dry before attempting the masking and painting might make a difference, but you might wish to consider something different–like perhaps Mr. Masking Sol by Mr. Hobby might work better (I’m going to use that next time). I’ve heard good things about that stuff. Anyway, good luck.
Devildog1rh;
I use it all the time I think it’s easier then masking, first you apply 2 coats because sometimes the mold release agent is a litte bit more stubborn then Future, let it dry for a couple of days, then use a new exacto knife blade and cut the frames out then paint the frames the interior color let that dry for a couple of days then install and do final paint, then Future the whole smash and your done
Glad I read this thread! I usually paint with acrylic and was just about to mask with micro mask. My v35 has been siiting here for two weeks waiting for paint. Think I might try the bmf. I hate masking tape wth a passion.
Darwin,
I use Micro Mask almost exclusively on my canopies, and I use only acrylic paints with no problems whatsoever. It may be because I apply my paint coats very sparsely and build it up gradually. I was concerned about the paint lifting the mask initially, but I have had no such problems. [%-)]
Brian [C):-)]
I’ve not tried Micro Mask or any other liquid masking agent to paint canopy frames. But what I’ve found that works best is Bare Metal Foil. Unless you have the pre-cut masks liek those that come with the Accurate Miniatures Avengers and a couple of their other kits, these really are nice. But back to the Bare Metal Foil, It sticks well to the canopy and is very thin so you can really see the demarcation between the canopy frame and glass, even after it’s been Futured. I place pieces on so they overlap the frame, burnish down with a toothpick and then score along the frame with a NEW #11 blade - this is key. Peel off the foil from the frame and paint. Once the paint is dry, the foil peels off very nice and since it has a light adhesive it rarely leaves any adhesive residue.