It seems vacuform kits are not the most popular kits out there
But never the less I’m building my first vacu kit
I’ve searched the net and found only a handfull of good sites with this subject
my question is anyone out there build these kits?
If so I have questions…
for starters: what kind of putty of filler is best for filling in all of the dimples and bumps on the skin surfaces? In order for me to sand and make it nice and smooth for painting.
the kit I have is 28" long so the surface is not very smooth.
can anyone help?
thanks
L. Kenney
I build vac kits and am in the middle of one now from MPM. I am also getting ready to start a Sanger Vac build in the next few weeks. I use Squadron White putty and Acetone fingernail polish remover with a fencing technique. What, you may ask, is that? Take a look at my site, read the build under the Axis tab for the Fw-200 Condor, read the Seam Repair article under the Tools and Tips tab and finally take a look at the SB-2 build on the front page. If you have questions after that email me, the address is on the site, and I will do my best to help you out.
Thank you Swanny.
Nice Builds in your web site
I’ve visited your site before
My question is not seam related
I have the 1/72 C-141B
and my problem is that all over the surface of the fusalage and wings
there are many small dimples and bumps caused by the vacuform machine or the plastic just wasn’t that smooth to began with. I need to fill these or something. I just want to know what product can I apply to the surface and sand off later. Do I use regular putty or is there something better.
thanks again.
Lee Kenney
Hmmm, for the small vac dimples I usually take a #2 Xacto handle with a leaf blade and carefully shave them off. For recessed dimples the worst may need filling with thinned putty nut Mt. Surfacer may work as well, depends on the severity.
Thanks I’ll try to thin some putty and go from there…I’ll use squadran white putty
and I don’t know what will thin it out ? But I’ll find out…
Thanks
Lee
Mech,
As Swammy stated the raised dimples can be shaved with a Chisle blade (EXacto) being careful not to gouge the surface. The depressions can be filled with putty. I like an acrylic automotive putty. Then the entire surface can be sanded with 600 wet/dry sandpaper. Wet sanding gives a smooth surface and the paper lasts longer because the water washes away the putty build-up in the paper.
I use a sanding block to sand with to prevent “digging” into the surface or the “flattening” of surfaces that should be round. If you are doing a natural metal finish then the final sanding should be done with finer sandpaper, such as 800 or 1200.
In larger models I find that balsa or plywood “stiffeners” glued in with epoxy help to take out warps and keep things straight, eg the long wings of the RB 57. The epoxy does not attack the plastic. Be sure to clean away the “mold release” or the glue will not stick (experience).
Various thicknesses of sheet stock plastic, from “Evergreen” for example, can be used to “box in” landing gear wells and make other scratch built parts, and can also be used to reinforce glue joints.
Vacuum formed kits are a challenge, but if there is no other kit of the subject you desire then the alternative is to take on the challenge, or wait for an injection or resin molded kit to be produced.
I’ve been working on a 1/48 B-57-B for several years. I work on it, get tired of it, set it aside, and repeat the process. Sometimes I set it aside while I search for more detailed information and/or pictures, say of the bomb bay or wheel wells.
There is no easy way to build Vacuform models, so take your time. rangerj
Acetone Based fingernail polish remover will thin squadron white putty
Thanks, Swanny, for all you’ve done for us on your web page. It’s great.
Is there a vacuform building tutorial around anywhere? I’ve done injection planes, armor, ships, cars, etc. for years, but have never built a vacuform kit. I’ve been wanting to do one for a long time and have finally gotten one, but I don’t know where to start. I think it’s a 1/72 Fairey Fulmer, but I can’t remember who the manufacturer is.
Thanks for any help you can give me on this.
wipw,
The publisher of this web site has a few books regarding the building of vacuum formed models. I found them to be very helpful. Add them to Swanny’s web site information and you can build anything.
Which website?? You mean FSM or somebody else? I’ve never seen an FSM book on vacuform stuff. Can you give me the name or the ISBN for a good one?
Thanks
He means Kalmbach Publishing - the parent company.
My name is Richard Staszak. I wrote the Kalmbach book on vacuumform model building that was published in 1984. I have a spare copy of the book if you are interested in purchasing it. It covers most of the basic techniques that I still use in building vacuumforms.
As for solving the surface finish problems the responses you have received ,to date, are appropriate. My approach is to do a lot of heavy sanding, apply body putty like Squadron, and then apply several coats of spray auto body primer, sanding between coats.
Hope this helps.
Richard,
Thanks for writing that book! I’ve had it for years and still refer to it constantly!
Richard, I would be interested in talking to you about getting your book. Could you please e-mail me at wipw@yahoo.com
Thank you very much.
First of all thanks for all the help. I’ve got the supplies I need now just need to do it. I’ll work on it tonight .
I need to put some pictures on here but I don’t have a digital camera.
these vacu kits are alot of fun and alot of work . I think I’ll get the 1/72 C-5 Galaxy next sinse I’m having so much fun.
Oh ya Richard do you still have the book and how much do you want for it?
Thanks
L.Kenney
Richard It looks like I type to slow
someone beat me to the punch , about the book
Oh well. maybe next time
thanks anyway
Lee
hi richard, i am looking for that book also.
gbearclaw@aol.com may have to run another printing. thanks glen s