So this will be my first build log here. The first victim will be the following kit:
Aftermarket (minimal):
CMK Instrument Panel
Montex Mask
*HGW Seatbelts (the cut yourself variety - N. E. V. E. R. A. G. A. I. N.)
I’ll be doing the Box Art scheme, but will be using the Montex Masks for theinsignia and tail codes.
Pretty easy pickings so far. Got the cockpit tub finished up. Modest scratching of IP cables since they are visable under windscreen and a makeshift O2 hose from some wire. Artistic license in some of the detail color. That’s how I roll.
Got the fuse closed up and decided I’d test fit the wings. Oh the horrors:
Doing some some fiddling I kind of figured out that the wings weren’t anywhere near proper dihedral which was contributing to the ugliness. Then I realized that the wing spar that joins the wheel wells together could be used to pull the wings into place. When I glued that down I was much happier:
P. S. Photobucket is &%$* I edited these pictures…making them smaller and cooler…and for some reason they are coming up as original…even though PB shows them in edited form.
I like how you roll. Nice looking seat belts and instrument panel. This is gotta be Hasegawa’s most perfect kit, in both 1/48 and 1/32 scale. Did you try adding a spreader bar of sprue to widen the fuselage to close the wing root gap?
I’m going to look at that as a possibility tonight. All four hours of my bench time yesterday went to those darn belts. I’m thinking that with some Tenex that I’ll be able to get the wings to hold, but will probably put a sprue spreader in there for good measure. The spar for the gear bays really helped close it up a lot.
Edit: Re: O2 hose…Hahahaha…thanks for pointing out the typo there I missed it at first, and I generally actually proofread my posts.
Great job on the cockpit! Too bad one can’t see much of that stuff when the fuselage is closed up. I, too, like to wing it with the colors.
I recently built a 1/32 P-40 from Trumpeter. It was a nice kit and turned out well, but I think it had less detail inside than yours.
I only paid about $30 for it, as the LHS was clearing out some old stock and offered us IPMS members first pick of the litter, for an additional 35% off the marked-down clearance price- I could not resist that!
(Re the oxygen hose- just carefully review how you spelled “makeshift” ! Har har!)
I like how you roll as well. On Hasegawa kits, its best to Tenax the upper wing to the wing root first. When dry, add the lower wing. If its too late for that, you could also stretch masking tape from wing tip to wing tip to force the roots together, then Tenax the joint. When dry, release and it will return to the proper dihedral. I’ve used this one many times with success. I look forward to your progress.
Modest progress last night. Managed to get the wings glued up…first I had to remedy this silliness…really? Closed up ejection slots in 1/32?
Threw in a spar to spread things open a bit.
So with the spreader at the wing root I was able to get a near flawless join. I used Tenex to attach all the other points first and once those were situated I ran Tamiya Extra Thin down the root seam and it welded up beautifully. Managed to clean up most everything and attach the vertical stabs. Few places I had to dab some Mr. Surfacer to clean up some bubbles. Should be able to wrap up major construction in the next couple of days.
Well they were the uncut versions which I didn’t know at the time of ordering. They have laser cut ones now. Cutting them out was the biggest hassle. After that it wasn’t too bad they are just really fiddly. I’m not convinced the time they took me was worth it say over painting resin molded ones. I’ll use the laser cut ones probably, but after I use the other set on my P-47 I won’t get the cut yourself kind
Things were going so well…I thought I’d begin the painting process three days ago, but when I masked up and glued down the glazing behind the pilots head the trouble began. Hasegawa molded the pieces in such a way that they create panel lines that aren’t supposed to be there. I had a heck of a time eliminating the seams. Putty, CA, more putty, more CA. It took three nights of bench time. Finally, today I got them where I wanted and was able to begin painting.
Primed with Mr. Surface 1500
Since stupid Sprue Bros was out of the black Mr. Surfacer, so I had to hit it with some black…I always prime with black…helps with the blending process during painting.
This is how I’ve been tackling painting as of late. Begin with the base color (Azure Blue) and work it in to centers of panels in a patchy way.
Next I just start building up HIGHLY diluted coats of the base color. The patchy work above helps to provide an uneven worn paint look I like.
1st go:
My stopping point on the bottom:
That’s where I am at now. Next up I will go in with some slightly lightened base and add highlights…then do the same with slightly darkened base.
(Side note: Finally stopped being lazy and bought 6 clip on desk lights, so my pics should get a little better :))
Ugh, I feel like I’m having a hard time keeping up having come in when I did. Great looking work all around. I really am enjoying seeing everyone’s build.
Got some more work done tonight. Hopefully I’m getting the underside near completion.
First I darkened the base color of Azure blue with some black. I got it a little darker than intended, but that’s ok it can be compensated for with the follwing step. I use this mixture to highlight panel lines and details.
Next it’s back to the base color for a blending coat. Heavily thinned passes to blend it back in. I stopped here. It’s a little more stark than I’d like the final look to be. However, I’ve found that after weathering and clear coats etc when I’ve toned it down more than this I’ve come close to loosing the effect. So even though I’m really wanting to hit it some more, I think I’m leaving it here.
Next was some work on the exhaust. I generally paint them Alclad Steel and then hit them with AK Interactive “Track Wash.” Plain steel on the left and with the wash on the right. It gives it a nice oxidized look.
Been working on the landing gear legs too. Sprayed with Alclad Airframe Aluminum and Dull Aluminum
After taking last night off from the bench it was back to paintwork tonight. Nothing special, did shading on the Dark Earth color:
Then it was time to use some poster tack and get the green down. I know a lot of people do the whole subject at once, but I work in sections…makes it easier I think.
All done
Of course it looks goofy with the Earth shaded and the green opaque…so some shading:
Had to do a few touch ups of both the top and bottom colors, but now it’s time to move on to masking and painting insignia and markings.
I missed it at first, and I generally actually proofread my posts.
