Sorry to bother with rookie questions…
I keep reading about hairspray and Future (furniture polish?). Can someone give a quick tute on what they’re for/how to apply them or direct me to a page/link where I can learn their application?
I’ve got a Jagdp IV on the bench ready for primer and my first AB attempt.
Regards to all,
Leviathan
I’ll do my best to share what knowledge I have on the subject. Hairspray (I tried Tresemme brand) is used mainly for obtaining good chipped paint effects. One puts down a base coat of worn metal-colored paint, and then airbrushes a thin coat of hairspray. once it dries, one can put on the main paint coat (of water-based acrylic paint). Then, with a stiff brush dipped in warm water, you can dab the surface, and it will take off the top layer by dissolving the hairspray and revealing the underlying layer. For me, it just got messy. In my opinion, the paint looks too thick using this method, even when the results are as planned.
As for the Future, It works similarly, but the Future is not used for chipping (as far as I know), it is just used as a clear coat. It is used to protect the underlying layers from thinners and such that it may then be exposed to. For example, if one is to put on an enamel (enamel is oil-based) base coat of a German grey, and then they want to put a wash of oil colors overtop, the thinners used to thin the oil paint for the was may damage the underlying base coat. If Future is used in between, it will be protected. However, I’m not so sure as to what solvents will damage a coat of Future, so you’d have to try it on an old model first.
I for one opt out of these methods, because coats of this stuff tend to add up. it doesn’t take too many coats of paint before a noticeable amount of definition in your model has been lost. I avoid primers for the same reason. Its a matter of personal opinion, I suppose. I’ve acquired my knowledge from WIP threads, so I can’t point you in any particular direction.
I personally would reccommend doing what I do— Put on a water-based base coat. I like Tamiya acrylics. Then, just follow it up with all oil-based effects (washes etc.). I use water-based base coats because oil-based washes tend to flow better and they don’t adhere to or damage the acrylic base coat. all of the washes and pigments I use are thinned with mineral spirits (oil-based thinner)… This way, I can do whatever I want, and it will never damage my base coat, and I don’t have to protect it with clear varnishes. Scratching can look just as good with brushed-on effects. This way, I only use one coat of paint.
I hope that ridiculously long post was worth your time.
Future isn’t furniture polish but rather acrylic floor wax. It’s a great gloss finish. It’s essential in applying decals (which need a gloss undercoat or you’ll get ‘silvering’).
I’ve used the hairspray method to depict worn whitewash over a basecoat. For instance, I’ll paint a German tank dark grey. Making sure the paint cures (I wait 48 hrs), I apply a misting of hair spray – wet enough but not soaked. I allow it to dry one day. Then I overcoat all this with cloudy acrylic flat white. After about 3 hours I dab on appropriate surfaces with a stiff brush and warm water. The hair spray becomes unstable and comes off, along with some of the white acrylic paint.
Like most things, the key is moderation. Try on an old model and see how you like it.
I agree that this technique CAN make the paint layers look too thick and out of scale, so use very thin paint. The hairspray technique is one I use very sparingly, and usually only on high wear areas to show the undercoat.
I wouldn’t call it “essential”… It’s handy for those folks who use a LOT of clear acrylic gloss because it’s cheaper per ounce than clear acrylic gloss paint, but any decent rattle-can of clear acrylic gloss will do the same job as Future, and you don’t need an airbrush… I can get all the gloss I need for about 15-20 tanks out of one 11 oz. can of Tree House Acrylic Gloss for 2.79 at Hobby Lobby…
Thanks to all. I appreciate you taking the time!
Regards,
Leviathan
Leviathan, here is a link to my “MIG-nificent King Tiger” build which has a hairspray toot in it.
Here’s another on my NeoGrade Pz III build where I used it.
If you really want a detailed photo-packed layout of the technique explained in depth, pick up Finescale Modeler’s November 2008 back issue–my Chevy Nomad “Lair of the Rust Bunnies” article is in there, and it explains everything with great photos
Here is a link to the build in FSM’s reader’s content–hope you can get this to open?
Hope they help you!
HVH: I amend my statement about “essential”. What I meant was gloss coat was essential to decal application: not necessarily Future per se.
