Anyone know where you can buy this wooden decking for the 1/700th Fuso/Yamashiro?
Manufacturer’s name is Shinsengumi. HLJ lists Fuso/Yamashiro decks as out of stock, with no orders pending due to lack of customer interest. Contact HLJ or any of the other Japanese kit exporters to see if the item is still available from the manufacturer.
Thanks for the info…but I am still having no luck actually finding this stuff for sale–ANYONE who can help—it would be most appreciated!!!
Contact the manufacturer directly:
[mailto:info@sinsengumi.jp?Subject=模型完成品製作 問い合わせ](mailto:info@sinsengumi.jp?Subject=模型完成品製作 問い合わせ)
Hoorah !!! FreeTime Hobbies in Blue Ridge, Georgia has one on the way…I got my name on it when it arrives…talk about luck—he only ordered one…[party]
Freetime Hobbies is a good one to have on your net speed-dial when looking for ship stuff.
Anyone know where I can get two more?
Bill Morrison
Dunno…but if you find a dependable supplier, let me know as well…
Dunno, but I must have gotten the last one in the country, as I paid over $100 for it!!!
Deck arrived yesterday for my Fuso…WOW…this is some feat of engineering…expensive but worth it…unfortunately the instructions are in Japanese, whick isn’t too much of a problem since it “drop-fits” right onto the deck…only question I have is what do I use to affix it…I was thinking af white glue…or wood glue??? Suggestions?
One of the problems with thin laser-engraved wooden parts is their tendency to warp/cup.
Before installation you should seal both sides with a good non water-based finish (shellac, poly, etc). Now might also be an appropriate time to stain the wood if desired.
Using a water-based finish or only finishing one side of the part WILL hasten the onset of warping no matter what glue you use. If the glue doesn’t fail, the wood will - resulting in splits & cracks.
I only did one side of the deck on my ISW Langley and it warped/cupped severely. Fortunately I was able to get a replacement from Nautilus and I had them engrave it into a slightly thicker piece of basswood. I sealed it, both sides, with Krylon clear before painting it chrome yellow on mahogany.
Wow, great advice…you may have saved me from some serious heartbreak. I think that rattle can Dull-coat or Gloss-coat would be a good sealer…opinions?
As far as adhesive, going with the super-glue seems like a good idea after I seal 'em—opinions?
Does anyone know of a company that makes a wooden deck for the 1/350 trumpeter Arizona? Thanks, Hank Gary Owen Support the troops
I’ve heard from several sources that rubber cement glue works well. There are a variety of wood sealers on the market that you can get either in a chandlery (expensive!!), or at your local home depot (cheap, but you end up with a fairly large can)…
Rubber cement is wonderful stuff for doing layout work and various temporary jobs involving thin materials - especially paper. But most definitely NOT for any permanent part of a model. The adhesive in it dries out, turns brown, and cuts loose within a month or two. Believe me, I speak from bitter experience.
If the situation calls for sticking a thin sheet of wood to a piece of plastic, I can offer two solutions that probably would work well. One - get hold of some old-fashioned plastic cement in a tube. Spread a thin layer of it on the bottom of the wood, press the wood onto the plastic, and clamp the two together till the glue dries. The cement will dissolve the plastic and soak into the wood. I’ve used that method successfully several times to glue basswood deck planks on top of styrene deck components. (In this particular case I’d be a little wary. I gather this company uses some kind of close-grained Asian hardwood; it’s conceivable that the grain may be too fine for the cement to penetrate.) Two - use old-fashioned contact cement, which you can buy at places like Lowe’s and Home Depot. Brush a thin coat of it on each surface, let it dry, and press the pieces together. (Be sure you get it right the first time. With that method you only get one chance.) On my little model of H.M.S. Bounty, based on the old Revell kit ( http://www.hmsvictoryscalemodels.be/JohnTilleyBounty/index.html ), I used contact cement to glue the copper plates to the hull. Thirty years later they show no sign of coming loose.
Actually I used a slightly modified technique for that particular job: I put one coat of contact cement on the copper, let that coat dry, then applied a second coat (again to the copper) and pressed it onto the plastic while the cement was still wet. That let me wiggle the plates around a bit before the cement dried. I don’t know whether that would work as well with wood or not; I suspect it would.
I also roughed up the surface of the hull slightly with fine sandpaper beforehand - probably not a bad idea for 1/700 decks either.
In recent years there have been some developments in contact cement production. I don’t know whether the new, water-based formulas would work as well for this kind of job as the old, incredibly stinky solvent-based stuff. I do know that the latter worked for me.
If I were building a 1/700 model with a wood deck I’d try out several adhesives and techniques, using scraps. But I wouldn’t bother with rubber cement. It’s wonderful stuff for jobs like making paper templates and sticking paper masks to models prior to painting. (The masks can be peeled off, and any residual rubber cement will rub off.) But for actual, permanent applications in model building - or anything else - it’s a no-no.
My favorite finish for decks is an old-fashioned one that’s making a comeback among woodworkers these days: white shellac, dilluted (with denatured alcohol) to the point where it doesn’t impart any noticeable sheen. Again, I’d experiment with it on any wood that I hadn’t used before. But on stained basswood dilluted shellac soaks into the surface, dries almost immediately, and becomes invisible - until you accidentally dribble some acrylic paint on the deck and discover, to your relief, that you can mop it up with a piece of water-dampened kleenex without leaving any evidence whatever.
Hope that helps a little. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips, guys…so taking into account what everyone has said, what do ya’ll think about rattlecan dullcoat as a sealer and superglue as a bonding agent???