Yep, makes since. I just prefer CA. I use Mod Podge or Elmer’s white glue to attach canopies instead of CA. I learned the hard way. made a total mess of it.
I think ALL kinds of glue have their use in model building, with the possible exception of horsehide glue. I keep four types of glue on my modeling bench, and use them all for various tasks.
The level of bonding strength depends more on the type of cement than on application methods.
Chrisk-k,
Thank you, and that actually makes sense. If one is using a type of cement/glue that isn’t designed for a particular type of material then the best application techniques in the world aren’t going to help form a strong bond.
If the bulk properties of the glue are weaker than the materials you are gluing together, then a thin bond is stronger- a thicker bond starts depending on the bulk properties.
I would imagine that in painting the liquid glue on the mating surfaces, you lose a little bit of time, however small, as you then put the two pieces together. That is, that as soon as the glue hits the surface, it starts dissolving the material but also starts curing. I’ve never used that technique, when I use liquid styrene cement. I’ve always placed the parts together and then flowed the glue along the seam and into the seam.
Yep. I don’t see any other ways of using liquid styrene cement.
Capillary attraction limits the amount of glue and hence the thickness of the bond. It is sort of an automatic quantity control. Painting it on by hand may put too much in the gap. Now, with solvent glue it makes no difference because the glue will evaporate, but with thin CA it can make a difference by minimizing the amount of glue. CA does not evaporate, it all hardens.
If I want a real strong bond I will use styreen glue; then after it cures apply CA. For example I just closed the gear bay doors on my in flight B-29. I built an infra-structure for them to sit on with styreen rod, Glued the doors in with tube styreen, and 24 hours later coated the seems from the inside with CA. I do not want to be punching these doors in after it is complete.
I only use styrene cements, liquid or tube, to bond styrene parts together. I want that chemical reaction that melts and welds the plastic. I’ll use CA glue to attach non-like substances, like resin to styrene, metal to styrene or resin, and also in resin to resin bonds. But where I can get that weld, I like to have that kind of a bond.
With liquid styrene cement and capillary action to flow the cement in the joint, I will try to leave a hair’s breadth of space, then squeeze the parts together and get that little bead of melted plastic to ooze out of the seam. That’s a big help, when trying to clean up seams. Of course, a piece of stretched sprue laid over the seam and then melted in with the liquid cement is very effective, too. But in either case, I put the parts together first, then apply the liquid cement.
Stretched sprue filler, I like that!
Yeah , I use that too .But , I forgot to tell Cowboy that I use Aleen’s " Tacky Glue " Exclusively for clear parts . It has a better bond than Elmers and is well known to be easy to clean if you are sloppy by accident .