This how I apply the Testors glue in the black bottle/red label. First I spread a bead of the glue. Then I use a toothpick to evenly spread the glue and remove any excess glue. This prevents the glue from oozing out of the joint. Press the two parts together and hold them together with your fingers for a while.
Sometimes, a few clamps are necessary.
Yes, this is exactly they way Ive always used the thick tube stuff when building my cars.
Been working on one of the F16 kits I got and why I never tried the Mr Cement or thin liquid stuff I’ll never know but I really like this stuff so far. Im not needing to find creative ways to stop ooze out and such.
For parts I need to dry fairly quick it works great. Im still using the tube stuff so far but only when I need a bit more work time before it sets up.
I would say that the stuff they’re using is Extra Thin cement. These things are less viscous than your average poly cement, and they are made to seep into the small gaps where the joints are, that way they can easily have a good join. Normaly, I try not to do that. I would just add glue on the contact area of the model, that way I wouldn’t melt the plastic details.
As for the melting of the plastic details, I wouldn’t worry about it too much, since the glue doesn’t seem to dissolve that much (from my experience). Unless the join area is near a place filled with many details, then I would refrain from doing that.
This is just my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
Oh Greg!
Don’t tell me! You made that mistake too? That is awful when you remove said Tape and Rubber bands and find that track all the way across a wing or car body, ain’t it? Makes you want to do a Silent primal Scream, Eh Wot?
Silent??? Bah!
Learned long ago that the modeling room should be heavily soundproofed…or at least warnings issued, if there are tender ears nearby to overhear my…musings. [:D]
hear - hear , greg [:D]
AHA ! Greg:
I am glad someone else admitted it before Me!
I was wondering what happened to Tenex 7R. Thanks for the tip. I have two bottles on the way now.
I have now gone to three grades of CA- thin, medium and gel. I use Loctite for the thin and gel, and found JB Weld CA perfect as a medium thickness but not quite a gel.
It is what I am using to glue the PE on my Langley kit.
Hi Missileman 2000!
Hey! you hit the nail on the head with those Gels. For most gels I use the Loctite Teeny tube. It suppplies all I need and I use it up. That way I don’t have to worry about in tube or bottle hardening. I will mostly use Bob Smith Ent. Hobby Shop labeled medium and thick for everything else, Occassionally using Bob Smith Ultra thin for 1/700. Anything below 1/200 is a candidate. Loctite is the first C/A I ever used and when they came out with the gel, I thought it was the “Cat’s Meow”
I use Plast I Weld in a Touch n Flow Applicator for most of the build specially for joining fuselage halves, filling in thin gaps and getting rid of join lines. I run a bead on top of a seam then squeeze both halves creating a ridge of melted plastic. The part is clamped and set aside overnight to cure. Next day the ridge gets sanded to an invisible solid join. If a ghost line is still visible then I run another bead on top to melt the plastic and sand once its cured.
Narrow gaps like along the wing root are filled with Plast I Weld in a Touch N Flow applicator melting the plastic insise the gap and closing it.
I also use Tamiya extra thin and Revell liquid cement in the blue plastic bottle with long metal applicator tip for certain applications.