Gloss Coating Over Metallics

[laskdjn]

Hi!

It’s a given. Did you know that even the old Testors Enamels in the square bottles can go bad? Well, that same applies to ANY water or Alcohol based Acrylic. High Temperatures and Severely low ones can destroy the Bond between the Pigment and Carrier. “Pigment-A substance giving a color to a mix of natural or manufactured colorants.”

"Carrier- A manufactured or natural base from which paints are made .It can be any numerous natural or chemical Compounds. Both can be severely affected by environments where stored, Or, other outside influence such as U.V.Light!

Note: It’s been My experience with Metallic coatings to let them Gas out for a full week Before tryng to clearcoat. AND it’s always best to use the Mfgrs. recommended Gloss or Semi-Gloss Clear-Coat. The ONLY one I have not run into problems with here is " Rub-N-Buff" This clearcoats easily after about two weeks of gassing out( If that’s the right terminology referring to their product)

2 weeks? Jeebus. I have a test piece that I primed and painted a different shade of metallic that didn’t show the fragility that the duraluminum did. it’s been drying for 2 days now and I wanted to run some test clear sprays on it

[cbaltrin]

Did you know that even the old Testors Enamels in the square bottles can go bad? Well, that same applies to ANY water or Alcohol based Acrylic

Not true, tamiya acrylics never go bad. I think they last longer than k-rations… [:P]

[missileman2000]

I’m starting to think that my bottle of duraluminum had gone bad. what was happening was when I sprayed it, I’d lay dish a nice light, but wet coat, just as you’re supposed to, but once it’d cure for a couple days, you could drop regular old water on it and the paint coat would dissolve.

I have had Alclad stuff go bad, on colors I do not use frequently. While the bottles do have a good seal on the cap, that stuff is very thin hot lacquer. So I guess if I keep opening the bottle I must expect some loss of thinner. I never thin the stuff- the factory ratio is best.

[laskdjn]

so, I clear coated with aquagloss my test piece I sprayed with regular mission models aluminum MMM-003… no cracks, nice sheen, I think the duraluminum was bad

[Eaglecash867]

so, I clear coated with aquagloss my test piece I sprayed with regular mission models aluminum MMM-003… no cracks, nice sheen, I think the duraluminum was bad

That’s a good sign then. Hopefully the new stuff will behave for you.

[laskdjn]

got a new bottle of duraluminum yesterday… sprayed down color at lunch, cleared in the evening, light wet passes… no cracks, I’m convinced my duraluminum was bad

[missileman2000]

Why is it neccessary to gloss coat a NMF finish?

[Eaglecash867]

Don’t know about anybody else, but I do it to seal in any decals that may have been applied. Clear-coating also gives some protection to NMF finishes, which tend to be a little more fragile than regular paint.

[laskdjn]

Don’t know about anybody else, but I do it to seal in any decals that may have been applied. Clear-coating also gives some protection to NMF finishes, which tend to be a little more fragile than regular paint.

This. Specifically, because I use water based acrylics, gloss coating prevents decal setting solution from destroying my paint

[Tanker-Builder]

Oho, Cbaltrin;

You may be onto something there! I found a bottle of Tamiya I bought back in 2010. Surprise, Surprise, The stuff was still useable. Now, If only they had a nice box I could put ALL my Model Master in that let them fit right, to see how many bottles of it I actually have. I seem to have a lot of Gunmetal, Anthracite and Flat Sea Blue. I wish I knew why. Now Most of that is about seven or eight years old, Never opened!

I also have twelve bottles of MM. clear Gloss and the same amout of, Wait for it! Pactra! Clear gloss and at least six bottles of semi-Gloss clear,(MM) and another dozen bottles of Clear flat by Craftint(That’s acrylic!) This is only part of the boxes of stuff I am going through since I closed my regular workshop. Gees, you should see the tools too. Any body know what an extended handle Ear Polypus is? I got two of those. Oh! and at least Four more boxes of paint I have to go through. I know some is Tamiya I bought in 2000. Wonder what Kinda shape it’s in?

[Tanker-Builder]

Laskjdn:

I think some can be coated earlier. Take your test piece and do this. Rub a small corner with your fingers,Then try to buff it with a soft(T-Shirt material,Clean and dry) rag, If it tries to buff, Clearcoat it! Then wait an hour. If you are going to get a reaction it should start showing up in that timeframe. If not, Bob’s Yer Uncle!

I will say this to all, It’s been my experience that all metallics Never react the same way so Test, Test, Test!!! Oh, And NEVER try to Clear Coat, Testors Chrome Silver! Even after a year When it has dulled a wee bit, don’t do it. It will turn flat aluminium looking! Under the nice Gloss-Coat!

[laskdjn]

Laskjdn:

I think some can be coated earlier. Take your test piece and do this. Rub a small corner with your fingers,Then try to buff it with a soft(T-Shirt material,Clean and dry) rag, If it tries to buff, Clearcoat it! Then wait an hour. If you are going to get a reaction it should start showing up in that timeframe. If not, Bob’s Yer Uncle!

I will say this to all, It’s been my experience that all metallics Never react the same way so Test, Test, Test!!! Oh, And NEVER try to Clear Coat, Testors Chrome Silver! Even after a year When it has dulled a wee bit, don’t do it. It will turn flat aluminium looking! Under the nice Gloss-Coat!

I’ll try that. Wha should u be looking for when I rub it with my finger?

[dazzjazz]

I recently finished a P51 using Vallejo metallics, and gloss coated with Mr Hobby rattle can gloss coat. No problem at all.

good luck!