When is the best time to apply general weatherin’, like burnished edges? I’m about to give the armour a satin coat, and then apply some washes, and the decals, would it also be a good time to burnish the edges at this stage, too?
The decals should be weathered as the rest of the vehicle. So, do what you have to do to apply the decals (some like to have a gloss coat before, followed by a matt varnish), then start your weathering. This should probably be started with some washes all over (Burnt sienna and or sepia for instance), then some sort of dry-brushing to get the details to stand out. This could be the right stage for paint scratches and general ‘burnishing’ as you put it, then stains, spills, mud and dust to complete the process.
I’ve noticed that the best medium to use for washes are oils and turpentine! How long do they take to dry, and will they be affected by the final matt varnish coat? Thanks a lot, for your feedback! I’ve also posted some images of an NSX on the auto forum, if your interested!
To be honest Eddie, I use artists’ watercolours for my washes. They are very ‘neutral’, being water-based, and do not interfere with my base coats and primers that usually are enamels, acrylics and automotive acrylics (such as Halford’s spraycans). I dilute them with water, but I add a drop of washing up liquid and a bit of white vinegar to the mix. The vinegar tend to prevent hardedges when the wash is drying, while the dishwashing liquid allows the mix to flow freely all over (water on its own, as you know, tend to ‘regroup’ in droplets).
Now I do use artists’ oils for my stains (burnt sienna, black, sepia, in various mixes) and rust (pure burnt sienna).
That’s my ‘way’. Others here will tell you about different techniques, I’m sure. But the key is to make sure that the next paint/thinner will not affect the previous one.
Forgot to mention that oils will take several days to dry, although the amount of thinner you add will have an effect (usually reducing the drying time). So, need to be careful not to touch the model for a while (a week would be safe, I’d think).
Cool, i’m listenin’, or I should say readin’! I think i’ll keep to water-based ink washes, I don’t fancy turpentine ruinin’ my paintjob, although I will be usin’ Vallejo’s model air satin coat, that may give a good barrier, and guard against any undesirable happenings with the turps! Has anyone used this stuff, I have the satin and matt coats! Thanks, appreciate it!