im building a guillows bf-109, adding scratchbuilt internals, and have never scratchbuilt before. I’ve got LOTS of questions.
current question, how do i make rivets realistically?
one coming up soon: anyone know what color a jumo 210da in a bf-109d would be painted? im assuming black or dark gray, but the only pictures i have of ones that arent in museums are corroded pretty badly.
First question-
What scale are you building in?
Easiest way to make rivets is to head down to your local hobby shop and get some line bolts. These are used by railroad enthusiasts, and look like blind rivets once attached.
Again it depends on the scale you are building in.
Otherwise you could practice placing small drops of CA glue, which takes some skill, or get a punch set and some plastic card and punch out your own rivets to suit.
As for the Jumo, try here for a pic
http://members.chello.se/preservedaxisaircraft/Luftwaffe/Engines/Jumo.htm
It’s not much, but better than nothing.
thanks a ton, the scale is 1:18 or somethin odd, btw. guillows balsa wood, its like 3/8th inch = 1 foot i think
yeah, 3/8 inch = 1 foot. if i calculated right, 1:32. im not thinkin they’re rivets though now that i look at it. its the bolts on top of the crankcase, on the top of the engine (a jumo 210). i did find some six-sided ones, too big though. i’ll prolly just use the superglue drops.
next area, i need to figure out what all the junk is in back of the engine, im assuming a torque converter, series of gears, transmission, etc. the only pic i have though a rear quarter which is a bit too steep an angle and has an engine stand in the way.
Ive never seen the back end of this engine, but typical things that would be placed on the back or Accesory gear box are items like the starter generator, tach generator, some type of fuel control unit, scavenge oil pump, pressure fuel pump and from many photos of other engines Ive seen have the turbo blower mounted in the back aswell. Hope this helps, Im by no means an expert. I work as an aircraft maintenance engineer, and most of my experience is with newer turbine enigines.
The thing on the back of the engine is some kind of gear box I think, and it has a cannon barrel that goes through it.
I didnt keep the instructions for the 109 I built, but i do have the exterior color guide for it. As for colors on the engine, use your search engine and find some on the internet.
this is a pic of the engine compartment of mine, maybe itll help
jim
why not plate it in styrene sheet, and use a “rosie the riviter” tool (looks like a gear on a stick)
The ‘gearbox’ would be the sequential gearing ass’y to allow the firing mechanism to coincide with the correct rotation point of the prop.
You will also find there are quite a few fluid lines running through the rear 1/3 for hydraulics and coolant flow.
Then there are the fuel, mixture, idle and a few other rods and cables that I cant quite remember at the moment.
Hope this helps a little
Sean
thanks, but its a db601, im building a d model, and using the jumo 210 engine
appreciate the help just the same
wow… lots of stuff… i think ill have to go with “gizmology”, as i know what none of it looks like, except what ive seen from profile pics. put stuff in, no one will know the diff![:P]
for rivits, you can find pins that are the right size and clip the heads off/ leave i little bit and drill a small hole to stick it it.
for bolts or nuts, like the previous poster said, grandt line bolds for railroading. I make my own bolts by rolling out a piece of non-hardening clay so that the surface is flat. Take a hex key that is the appropriate size and poke a series of holes into the clay. Then, take some resin and smear it into the holes with a pallette knife flush to the top of the clay. when it has hardened, bend the clay up and pick the bolts out of it.
You can get a similar effect by fileing a piece of spru into a six sided tube and then stretching it with a flame. the crisp edges get rounded off
a bit buy the heating process and disappears if it gets too small, though.
hey guys…found a cool site with alot of german painting reg.s on it, off of some guys webpage. swannysmodels.com/painting.html has all the standard painting instructions for interiors.
and an update on my progress… i got the instruments masked, using sharpie then scraping off the extra with a pin vise holding a nail, and its been soaking in the radioshack etching solution, which is diluted ferric chloride. thanks for the tip on that one, whoever gave me the hint in my other thread… really helpful. anyway, its been in for 20 minutes, needs another 20 i think, solution isnt completely done yet, but i think i might need fresh stuff soon. ill try and post some of the many pictures i have taken once this is done. maybe a pic or 2 of the engine once i put the gearbox and tubing on the back.
u guys are all great… i got pics on a jumo 213, so im thinking cheating might be in soon… but my etching came out great for the instruments. nice and clear, beautiful. best panel ive ever seen. ok, maybe its cuz all the kits ive bought were junk… lol
hey guys… ill hopefully be done by next saturday, jan 22. a bit rushed, i know, but this is for an english project, so i can tell my parents “i am doing hw”[:p]
planning on either od splinter, or dk gray/ dk green splinter with red and yellow markings. cool stuff.
see em on www.messerchmitt-bf109.de, under the d model. sites in german, select model on sidebar, variant of model in drop down top right corner. color profiles are listed as “farb profil” or somethin. d-1 is the variant im lookin at. its a yellow bar-12 for one, and the other is the green-gray splinter, top center. tell me what ya think of each. oooh… i just saw werner molders’ plane… ugly tho. darn.
engine done! i kinda made up the back end… hehee… o well.
now i just hafta figure out how to post up pics of it… help anyone?
ok got it…
heres some pics, first 2 are engine, last is my cockpit panel before i etched it. none of em are painted yet, obviously… i think theyre all gonna be a straight black or gray-green, which is unfortunate, cuz ittl be sorta hard to see the details unless ur there in person.
made decals too, and put some on my etched instruments
enough solvent so that they formed right over the etched areas.