We had a post a few days ago concerning Model Kasten vs. Fruil. I thought I would share a simple technique that I use for Fruils…
This is all I need to start-note the tailor pins (from Wal Mart about $1.00)
Two blocks joined-the pin is just long enough to poke thru the soft metal on the other side
Clip the pinhead off and you have a perfect track pin,protruding from both sides of the block
Continue assembly (I can do 84 blocks in twenty minutes) and you’re ready for paint! FYI-the pins are the perfect interfernce fit, they will not fall out, but you may CA the ends if you wish (I don’t).
These aftermarket tracks will add considerable weight to your suspension. Be sure and keep that in mind when assembling roadarms, idlers etc. The key is getting the tailoring pins from any sewing section of your local dept. store.
I hope this helps those of you who would like to try the aftermarket metak tracks.
Wonder if it’s possible to get this stickied? (and the MK track thread that’s a few pages back too?) This is a great reference on how to work with metal tracks.
Do Fruil tracks need to be drilled out first, or do they come pre-drilled? I’ve read two guides to making them on the net, and they contradicted each other on this point.
Alas, I can’t afford to buy any right now and see for myself. [BH]
I was worried that the track pin channels were moulded completely solid, with maybe just a dent to show you where to drill. Instead, I gather that they are open, but need to be widened or cleared of flash or something to use the wire that comes with them. Is that right?
I’ll find out soon for myself. Guess someone heard me boo-hooing in the last post, because this morning I got offered a new job! By this time next month I’ll be putting Fruil tracks on that Dragon Jagdpanther that’s been sititng on my shelf all summer!