Ok, i’ve just got a couple of questions regarding Fruilmodel tracks, i know your armour guys can help.
I’ve currently got this model in the stash, which i’d like to start building:
Now, from what i’ve been told, the correct Fruilmodel tracks for this are these:
Question1: to use these tracks on this kit, do i need to do any mods to the drive sprockets or return rollers (i know that some track require a bit of work to the the sprockets and rollers to use them properly).
The reason i ask is, i want to start building but it’ll take a few weeks for me to get my tracks imported. Any help would be appreciated.
Question 2:
I recently bought this kit:
Question: which fruilmodel tracks should i be buying for this kit?
The tracks for your Pz III should fit fine w/o modifying your sprocket. As for the SdKfz 251, you’re better off taking your Fruil money and buying an updated DML or AFV Club kit which already come with accurate plastic tracks. They are light years ahead of the early 1970s molding of the Tamiya “Hanomag”.
Take a look at the sheer volume of kits that have long surpassed the Tamiya kit:
I will agree with Roy on both counts. I have the same Pz III kit and same tracks. Though i haven’t built this one yet, i have never had an issue fitting Fruil tracks to any kit.
As for the 251, i really would not throw any more money at it myself. Most of the AFV 251 kits come with rubber band tracks, including their Ausf C. But well worth getting Fruils for.
The fruils for the 251 are number ATL-61 and I can say they are a lot more complicated than the normal Friuls. Once you build the normal run of tracks you have to add in the track pads. I have two sets and to be honest I’m not sure I’ll get to use them for a while as I don’t trust the glue to hold the track pads forever.
On top of that I’d agree with the other guys on here get the AFV or Dragon kits of the 251 they are better kits, use the Tamiya and a learning one and get your skill up on filling gaps etc, I did that with a Revell kit of the 251 and it was useful even if the kit isn’t that good
ATL 61’s are the all metal pads that were used for a small period in 1944. they were discontinued due to the vibrations. For most 251’s set 07 is the right one.
Not sure what you mean about the pins. Every set of Fruils i have used have had pins to hold the links together. I have only used glue to hold the pin in place. They are meant to be workable tracks.
Edit: Sorry, i have just re read your post. I read pins instead of pads.Now i am with you.
well since you’ve already bought it. and yes everyone’s right about the Half Track but you can either try and sell it on eBay. or just put that one together and update the HECK OUT OF IT. but wow it will cost. tracks the easiest on your wallet. Friul’s the best next kasten. i think AFV has a set. good luck i know NO help. hey i tried[:D]
You’ll probably want to do a bit of research, but I built Cyber-Hobby’s Pz.III Ausf.L just about a year ago, and it used those III/IV tracks, but the ones with the open guide horns.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Friuls fit the Tammy sprocket just fine…
OPP’s, seems i may have made an error, sevearl times. I just checked some photos of III L’s and a few other late war III’s and IV’s and they all seem to have the tracks with the open horns. Teachers me to trust the Fruil labelling. This is going to cost a bit to fix.
Clay - no dramas, i think i’ll use it as a weathering project rather than invest any more $$$ into it.
DoogsATX - nice build! Which ones are the ones with the open guide horn? (sorry for all the questions, but i really have no idea when it comes to armour and unfortunately the websites i buy from don’t really tell you too much).
Don’t worry about the horns - most people apart from the ones really in the know wouldn’t notice and those that did might raise it as a slight error but that’s all.
Anyway - I know Tamiya Box-Art isn’t exactly stuff to base a build on BUT the tracks on the box art have solid guide horns. There’s your answer as to why you made that choice!
All I can say is put the Friul wire in the spares box as it awful and waaay too thin. Instead use 0.5mm dia Brass Road or wire. Use your Pin-Vice to Drill out the holes to 0.5mm dia with a 0.5 or 0.55m bit (the holes should be that size anyway but they’ll probably need clearing which is why I use a 0.55mm bit).
Like the other guys have said, don’t bother with Friuls for that ancient Tamiya Kit - build that one OOB if you want but otherwise I’d get a dragon version with Magic Tracks.
Below is my Cyber-Hobby 1944/45 Hybrid StuG. I love Friuls so decided to use the late version solid horned Friuls like you have there.
Bish - cheers for the info, i’ll grab those ATL-04s.
Fmatthews - thanks for the tip, i’ll keep in mind for when i do a later model.
Ben - i haven’t bought the Fruils yet, so i’ll grab the open horns. You’re right that it probably wouldn’t be noticed by anybody who’ll ever see my build (but for ya’ll on this forum), however, i am trying to build a little more accurately, so think i’ll go with the open guide horns.
Thanks everyone for the advice - you’ve certainly helped, my reference material is non-existent, so it’s great to have everybody here to help.
Also Ben, thanks for the advice on the Fruils assembly. I’ve got access to brass rod from my LHS, so when i get them, i’ll be sure to buy some 0.5mm rod and clean out the holes.
