I have been useing Novacan Black Patina found in stained glass stores creates a nice weathered effect, but it is an acid I run the tracks through an ultrasonic cleaner the do about 10 links at a time 3 to 4 minutes in the Patina and rinse with cold water addind more Pantina as needed when it weakens werar all safity gear but it makes a good looking track when done 8 oz runs about $6 dollars
I use MM acrylics, and start with burnt umber, thinned with rubbing alcohol. I then use progressively lighter colors, each heavily thinned, and finish by sanding the ground contact areas to bright metal (if they’re metal, grays if they’re rubber). On the inside faces, I dry-brush with acrylic silver or gunmetal if the tracks are all metal, various tones of gray if they’re rubber.
Generally speaking, at least in my case, I use Friuls on tanks that have all-metal links. Rubber- faced or -lined links tend to be “live”, so I use kit or plastic links.
Thanks for all the advice and input guys. IT’s been a busy week with work, scouts, swim and other sundry evening tasks. I’m almost done with my tracks and I must say I am worried about that sag. Not much I can do now. I do want to have nice looking tracks.
If anyone has any idea how to take out the sag, I’m all ears (or eyes). I’m using half inch sequin pins instead of two-inchers.
I drill the hold with a 0.021 bit.
then insert the pin
Then i clip them with my wire cutters. I’m an eyeglass wearer and i also don my magnifying goggles. Then i place a finger on the head of the pin and snip. The waste falls down into my model box cover. But if i fail to put my finger on the pinhead, MAN DO YOU HAVE A MISSILE!
After snipping the head off, I use a small blunt pin (like a pushpin with the point snipped off) to push it in just a bit more. The result is outstanding.
What I’m considering doing for the sag is to take the wire that came with the friuls, and glue them to the inside of the tracks to give them “stiffness”. Anyone tried that?
Thanks loads guys.
I’m loving this thread!
I’ve two track runs of StuG III links to make up tomorrow plus several spare links for stowage.
I’ll try and pick up some 0.5" sequin pins on the way into work-theres a sewing shop on the way in. I practiced making a few up but the way is a real pain in the butt when it bends and brass rod wise the thinnest diameter stuff I can get is still way too big.
Lou from Armour Models here in the UK said Blacken it should be avoided when using the normal Fruil supplied wire. It is corrosive stuff and will eventually munch it’s way through the wire links-thus the tracks start falling to bits! [:'(]
He uses plain old XF flat black as a base and builds on top of this black base coat depending on what finish he wants. Some light pigment dusting or pigment sludge for mud applied last and job done. I’m keeping my StuG pretty clean and dusty looking so the tracks won’t be muddy. I’m thinking about the opening stages of Barbarossa when the Wermacht were marauding over the Eastern plains-it was all pretty warm and dusty then at the start of the operation.
I’ll mess around with them until I’m happy but I’m not covering these with mud-I wan’t to show them off!
ATVB
Ben [t$t]
Here’s my tip for what it’s worth:
If you’re worried about your tracks falling apart because the solution will corrode the pins and don’t have one of those sonic cleaners and you’re cheap like me just go to the kitchen and put a level teaspoon of Baking Soda in a glass of hot tap water,mix it up till the soda disolves and soak the tracks in it for say 30 minutes.
You can also use an old tooth brush to work it into the nooks and crannies then rinse and let dry, acid neutralized.
Happy Hunting
Tony Lee[:)]
Great advice everyone! Neutralizing the acid is also extremely important 
Im doing my first set of Friuls for a PZ IV E very soon…wheels need paint first. My LHS has a couple of finished kits on display where the modeler used Blacken it and they look incredible…far more realistic than anything else from a kit.
Jiminva, by leaving two or three link pins long, you can come back later and adjust the track length to better suit what you’re building. I went from this:
to this, by removing one link.
I was looking for minimal to zero sag. It can be difficult, but it’s worth it. This one came out a teeny bit loose, but I’m going to go with it, as it’s the best I can get.
I gave up on a Sherman, went with DS tracks instead. Expensive lesson, but now I have a load for a CCKW I’m (slowly) working on.