Hey that sounds like fun but its not i want to get some feed back evertime i take and insalled a canopy right around were the glue meets the body of the aircraft i has a foggy look i have swiched frome testors model to testors glue for clear parts. Anybody got a type of glue they use that might be better or a prossess you go by to avoid that?
The canopy and windscreen are not areas of high stress. Elmers white glue, school glue, Micro Scale Crystal Clear all will provide adhesion and dry clear.
JJ…
Dip your canopies in future in the future (hehehe),not only does it make the clear more transparent, it protects against fogging even if you use superglue. Dip before painting the frames so if the frames dont come out too clean or the paint bleeds under, all you have to do is strip it all down with windex, re dip in future and paint again. Oh and it also repairs minor scratches in the clear…
Good luck
Carlos
PS…No this was not a commercial paid for by Johnson Wax…[:P]
i have Future floor polish i did not even think to use that. Thanks for the tip. i got a another question for you how did you get the pics at the end of you mesage? i want to post my model when i am done with it?
JJ…
what i do is upload to a image hosting site like photobucket…then cut and paste the image code to your message. The code will start with [IMGhttp: and end with /IMG]
it will basically be a shortcut to that site and the image…
There should be other instructions on the FS site for image uploading…I fibd this the easiest…
The group build badges are similiar except you cut and paste them to your signature line. Note for this there is a size limit…
Looking forward to see some work…
Good Luck
Carlos
Has anyone tried watch crystal cement? You can find it at arts&craft stores like Michael’s or AC Moore’s, in their jewelry supply, or at HobbyLobby, in the same section. I read recently of someone using it for a fog-free glue-up, and I’m going to try it, too.
I use Testors “Clear Parts Cement” and never had any problems. I always use future for my canopies though. Sometimes more than once … sometimes have to clean them up and repeat it (since some dust shows up 
).
As Swanny [:D[ sugests (I still watch his videos, so I am not alone modeling )right after a future swimm I put canopy on the paper towel under the glass - so dust can not go there. It takes about 24 hours to dry fully. Than its ready to mask and do whatever its necessary.
Elmer’s glue is enough to hold without fogging anything… The Testor’s Clear Parts Cement is basically the same thing…