Hey ya’all,
Two months ago I built my first armor model , an M1 Abrams from Hobbycraft. It was so easy I suprised myself. Looks pretty good being my first attempt at using a wash.
I’ve decided to jump deeper into this hobby by making the M113A1 from Academy and this time add the interior and exterior photo-etched parts from Eduard.
Does anyone have any advice to offer a first time user of photo-etched parts? Can I get away without buying the etch mate?
Mike
Hey Mike,
No need for an etchmate, you can do the same thing with tools from home with a little inginuity.
First off, IMO most PE sets come with parts that don’t really enhance the model. Pick and choose the parts that will improve the final product. On average, I use between 30 and 50% of a PE fret.
For tools, you’ll need a sharp knife to remove the parts, tweezers, I use small needle nose pliers to bend parts, a razor blade makes a great straightedge and CA glue to stick them on your kit.
Work slow and be careful or you’ll have parts all over the room, they launch really well.
[#ditto] what Robert said. You can also use some fine sandpaper to scuff the brass where glue will be, This will give the glue a little more bite so the parts don’t pop off as easy.
Be very patient. Take your time. I’m looking forward (?) to the Aber 3 piece equipment clamps later this week, and am fiddling with a 1/35th scale set of M16 (not the rifle) hex nuts… Hurrah… All in the name of detail though.
ahh, yes, the “tweezerpult” phenomenon!![:0][(-D]
anyway, good luck and welcome to the forums!
[#welcome]
regards,
nick
I agree with all the others but I do own an Etch mate and if you use alot of PE sets, especially ship PE the etch mate is worth it, at least to me. It has made alot of tough bends much easier to do. I am lucky in that I can afford to buy things like that to make life easier, but if your budget doesnt allow then patience is the way to go:-) Good Luck
All of these suggestions are “spot on”. I also own an Etch Mate, but only end up using it for bends of about 3/8" or more. Many smaller parts are actually easier to bend using tweezers or razor blades IMHO. Patience and a “light touch” are definitely to words to live by.
Foster
I haven’t used PE parts for very long, so I can relate Michael. The only piece of advice, albeit common, is PATIENCE. The parts require much more care in handling. Also, be careful when you apply CA glue, don’t over do it, and don’t stick the parts to your fingers 
I don’t have an etch mate, but I use needle nose pliers, along with tweezers, and they’ve worked out fine for me.
Good luck on the PE! You’ll find that the parts you do use will really enhance the model
As above. But a some additional from me. If you’re doing smaller (as in not long) pe stuff, you might consider the 2" Hold ‘n’ Fold. It’s about $25, and does a lot of the smaller stuff, and can be held up for “eye level” work.
Make sure you clean your pe stuff before you remove the parts from the fret. I use lacquer thinner, others used alcohol.
Annealing the parts can help you bend them easier, if you don’t over do it. Heat the parts over a candle until it glows red, then let it cool slowly back to room temperature. If you use a propane torch (like I did the first time), you’ll either melt the parts or make them harder not softer.
Bathing the part in vinegar for a few minutes will etch the part and help the glue and paint adhere better.
I have a variety of tweezers and pliers, including a very fine pointed needle nose tweezer, a straight ended eyebrow tweezer, a round nose plier, and one of the most valuable, a flat nosed square ended plier (make sure the jaws aren’t serated).