My curent WIP Panther is ready for basic assembly i.e. the hull is assembled as is the turret and rear panel. There is a lot of extras tools etc to go on but they are going on after the cammo has been done.
Seeing as I have a ‘proper’ AB I’d like to try some fine-line pre shading. I’ve looked at various videos on You-Tube etc but was wondering what colour should I use for the pre-shade lines and how wide should these lines be?
She’ll be getting a coat of rattlecan primer first so the pre shade will follow when that has cured. The base coat is going to be Dunky Yellow.
Any advice guys?
Basically line width, areas to concentrate my pre shade lines on and pre shade colour to use are my main questions? Also, does the paint need to be thinned as normal or is it better going on nearly neat or totally neat? I’m thinking that a less thinned paint will show through better?
I’ll be assembling the main tank shortly and will be putting the primer coat on shortly after. How long does rattlecan primer need to cure as opposed to standard paint. It’s Humbrol Acrylic rattlecan Primer btw.
Aah, nearly forgot this one! I have been told by a couple of buddies on a UK based forum that a drop of X-19 Smoke added to your AB cup mix will help the paint sit and give a slightly glossier, nicer finish. Have you chaps heard of Tamiya Smoke being used for this? Is Tamiya Smoke a dedicated paint colour or is it supposed to have other uses? [:S]
Enamel black wash over bare plastic & black dry brushing.
Rattle can primer drys very fast long as the coat is thin. Use light gray in a few thin ‘mist’ coats or your pre-shading work will be covered and not noticeable.
Tamiya ‘smoke’ has a glossy sheen, I use it for fuel stains and for custom ‘blued barrel’ washes. Paint guns flat black, dry brush gun metal and then wash with ‘smoke & clear blue’
The actual barrel is stainless steel hypodermic needle annealed (heated) with a lighter with the soot wiped off.
I have just done the first primer coat-I wasn’t planning on priming over my pre-shade! [;)] When that is fully cured I was going to use my AB and Tamiya Acrylic to do some pre-shade lines.
I was going to use black anyway (unless someone else recomended a different colour) so that’s sorted. The main questions now being do I use a normal thinned black paint or use less thinner for the pre-shade lines and how wide do these lines need to be? 2-5mm I was thinking?
!http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/Sogur/Smileys/bakastyle.gifThe intensity of the depressed (wash) area will be pre-determined by the depth and width of the engraving and the ratio of dilution of the wash. The black dry brushing will highlight the raised areas and will be determined by the amount of paint & pressure on the brush.
Try not to overthink the preshading, verysimply, you want to replicate how natural light will hit the subject. Lighter on flat top surfaces and darker on sides.
Here is the progression on my firefly:
Puttied weld seams, etc. ready for primer:
Tamiya acrylic nato black for the whole model:
Some lightened OD in a light top coat:
Progressively lightened shades of OD, again replicating natural light:
Marking and detailing, still shooting with the AB to touch up and heighten shading:
Now that Firefly is superb! I built the 1/48 Tamiya Firefly when I first started out as my Grandad drove one after D-Day. She really is a beauty you have there-top modelling buddy!
I’ll be honest, I totally forgot I started this thread yesterday (DOH!) so I’ve not long finished the pre shade lines, I used XF-9 Hull Red. I’m going to be trying the first coat of Dunky Yellow very shortly.
For more info I’ve updated my WIP Panther G thread re pre shading etc which is around the front page somewhere! Check her out. Photos are yet to be posted, I’ll do them later today.
