I’m at the point where I’m going to add parts to the top of the turret. On the commanders cupola ring, there is a cylinder at the front and the back. The one in the front is where the 50 cal mg mounts. The one in the back I can’t figure out. It looks like a piece that looks like a sight of some sort mounts there, but it certainly won’t fit in the cylinder. Does the cylinder need to be carved off or does the “sight” go somewhere else. The instructions for this kit really has some issues!
Thanks a bunch. I knew I could count on a speedy answer out here, as always.
btw, I “solved” the problem of the back side of the idlers not being detailed by shaving down a set of extra Italeri idlers, cutting them in half, and gluing them into the rear of the DML wheels. Took a while to do it, but thanks to Mr Dremel, it wasn’t too bad. I took some pictures of the steps, but my camera disappeared (again) at my wife’s graduation. I’ve got her calling around to see if we can turn it up.
Oh, Robert; is that piece a sight, and does it glue down right where the cylinder in question is removed?
Hey, thanks for posting this question, Bill. Gotta keep Sherm’s reply on this as I have the same kit that I will be building soon. (Soon could mean in the within the next few years…he-he-he.)
Okay, here are the pictures I’ve taken of the turret ring. I’m also posting some pictures of what I did to the idlers in the Sherman Group Build.
These are the original DML idlers on the left., front and badk. As you can see, the back has no detail, in fact, it’s completely hollow. Next is an Italeri (USMC Sherman) idler. They have detail (somewhat soft) on the front and back, but no center covers on the fronts, and big ejector pin marks on the back surfaces. Next are what was left after I turned down and split in half one of the Italeri Idlers.
Here they are with the Italeri centers inserted into the back of the DML idlers.
And one more time after painting.
I don’t think they turned out too badly. Since they will be under the tank, they will probably pass all but a judges eye.
Here’s another “fun” thing for you with this kit (also applies to the previous version DML made). In step 19, you have to fold up a little pe part (MA4) that gets glued onto the left side of the turret next to the square hatch on top of the turret. It shows to attach part B24 (a small, rectangular plastic piece) onto it. I hunted and hunted for B24 as it had been removed from my sprue. Then I noticed that in the same step, part B24 is shown as being the “inner mantlet”, which it is! So then I spent a bunch more time hunting every sprue looking for the part. (I think it’s supposed to be some sort of pad for the hatch to rest against.) I finally decided that the correct part number is B19. It looks right and there is no other reference to that part in the instructions.
Good luck with your model.
Robert;
Another question for you about uniform color. Thanks for the post in the other thread. What paints would you recommend for the kaki color of the uniforms?
Thanks, Robert. I brought in the instruction sheet and looked up the Gunze Sangyo colors and it lists an olive drab as the uniform color. Obviously, they got it all wrong! Sure glad we have you to fall back on!![:D][:D][bow][:D][:D]
I have another question about the DML Firefly Vc (kit # 6182). In step 4, you are supposed to remove a very thin bit that winds its way aroung what would have been (I think) the mount for the bow mg on Sherman variants that had one. Taking that off is going to make a heck of a mess. If I have to take it off, why did they put it there in the first place? And one more questions about tanks, generally. Should I paint the pioneer tools separately, or do I put them on then paint them the same colors as the vehicle itself? As always, thanks for the tips.
Pioneer tools first. Some members paint the tools with them on, others with them off. I prefer to do it separately. If you do them while on the tank, one idea is to slip a piece of Post-it Note paper under the tool to keep the paint off the tank.
The ridge you are talking about. I sliced mine off without too much trouble, then I put liquid cement on the remnants of the molding, let the plastic get a little soft, then stippled it with a stiff brush to blend it in a bit. I was better, but still showed. However, you wind up putting an “armored cover” over the machine gun fitting (careful on placement, it doesn’t look anything like it’s supposed to in the instructions). After it was glued on and dried, I put a small bead of putty around the join line and pressed marks in it to look like a weld bead. It came out pretty well. Look at some of the molded in weld beads on the tank and you’ll get an idea what it should look like.
