Hello… the kit build up OK, except for the intakes. I used up a heck of a lot of filler and sandpaper for the front part of the intakes. If you get this kit, make sure the intakes (seen from the front) are rectangles; you may need to put some filler at the bottom lips. The panel lines are engraved well. Vertical stabilizers slot in, no need for filling at all. Worst part – the engine nozzles (they are molded “full open” and do not look very good on an a/c sitting on the ground, like mine), and the gun port (I filled up the gun port and resculpted it; threw away the gatling gun). The pilot mold is not very good either, into the spares box he goes!
WOW!!! How did you brushpaint that masterpeice? What type of paint did you use? How many layers? This is the first time I’ve seen such a good result with brushpainting.
Hi there. I use a technique that I learned from the Japanese (I think there are more Japanese modelers who DON’T use an airbrush than modelers who do), then modified it for my own use. I use a 50:50 paint to thinner ratio. Always.
I use a 1/4" flat brush for the wide areas of the plane (a brush bigger than 1/4" will load too much paint). Anyway, load your brush from your pallette, then dab the paint on a rag to remove the glob of paint from the end, THEN brush your model. Paint a bare area of the model each time you load your brush; never paint on top of wet paint. When there’s no more bare areas, stop and let the thing dry. In the next paint session, paint in between the previously painted areas. Then do this one more time. Three layers is usually enough for darker colors like dark grey, for lighter colors you will need more passes.
Make sure your brush is WET and clean at all times. Keep a dish of thinner or alcohol at hand to remove paint before reloading your brush.
Favorite paint = Tamiya. Favorite thinner = Tamiya. Most hated paint = GSI Creos.
By the way, my sensei (who is also my manager at work), uses a pointed brush on his models, and HIS models are outstanding! It boggles the mind!!!
show de bola!!!
@albert
If that is how you do it, i’m throwing humbrol out the window (well, not really). I never thought to paint like that befor, i never even heard of it, i will have to try this!!
My only question is how long do you let the tamiya paint dry/cure between coats and is there any problems with striping of previous layers when brusing?
Show of ball??? Sorry, my Spanish is very bad.
ZzZGuy >> Let’s see, usually the Tamiya paint should be ok to repaint in about an hour or two. Honestly I sometimes CAN’T WAIT and paint another layer in half an hour! Hehehehe.
Striping? It can happen if you let the paint-to-thinner ratio change to “more paint than thinner” (for example, if you tend to paint a lot of model surface area at one go, the thinner in your paint-thinner mixture in your pallet evaporates quickly, leaving more paint in the mix). You have to make sure your paint-thinner ratio stays around 50:50. Anyway, no matter how good the paint mix and the technique, some striping might still occur if you look close enough since one IS painting with a brush! The only way to get around it is by dry sanding in between coats, using a high grit sandpaper (like 2000-grit paper, etc). Stay cool and remember to have fun!