I’ve seen other versions with nets deployed, And I must say that looks spectacular. I look in awe the the model build by user “RGL”. But did not want to make it too hard on myself because I never build anything in this scale. It would not be the first time not finishing something.
(I just looked your build up from 2012. Very impressive!)
Tanker-Builder
Paper build? I never build a model from paper. Isn’t it hard to make multi curves like on the bow? Andrea Doria: Nice looking ship. I would love to see that model.
JoeSMG
To be clear. I started way before with this build. Only after a certain point I thought of starting a thread. So at starting post I was quite far already. But I hate threads that never finish on forums, So I wanted to be sure I was quite far already before posting anything.
I do not always have time to build, and for instance 3d printing can I only do in weekends, so progress is actually quite slow. Best guess I started somewhere in august (?) last year.
Actually it’s not as hard to get those curves as some think. On the " Doria" for instance you can get a laser cut detail frame set. Then you assemble everything according to the instructions. DO NOT Deviate! Next thing you know you get those beautiful Yacht like curves.Oh, Both ships come as one kit!
I am trying to get used to a new Camera. As soon as I get the hang of it I will post some photos, I promise! On one point I want to make mention of something important. Many builders, even in this scale category forget part of the hardware on the forward deck. You did think of it. Chain Stoppers are a part of every Naval ship’s forward deck hardware.It ( the Stoppers) takes the strain OFF the Anchor Windlass and it’s brakes.
I’ve catched up to the progress thus far. So not much progress to tell. Last small bits are the most tedious. Added a lot of small ropes, planks, and other small things.
I painted more of the crew. Had painted some already, but needs a lot more to make it a bit lively. I used a Tamiya kit:
I was very dissapointed. These figures are all flat. Whats the point of injection molding if you make them flat? I printed some figures as well, and those are acceptable, but too much work cutting off all the supports. (Supports are wider than the limbs of the figures themselves.
Used some putty to give em some body, but it’s quite hard on this scale.
On the right a converted sailor into a female figure. It is 2021 after all. On the left a ‘normal’ figure. Here you can see how flat these are.
Started on the nameplate. Made a text in inkscape and printed on a transparant.
I only had 0.1mm thick brass, so it required some attention getting something of a 3d effect while not etching through.
And after some coloring and varnish to keep it shiny.
Oh gee, if the injection-molded figures are that flat you might as well be using PE ones! Your work fattening them up and the sex change look good though.
I wanted to make a dustcover from 2mm acrylic. Bought cut, polished it, and… failed miserably. The glue ‘acrifix 920’ was suppost to be water thin, but came in a tube and was just regular glue consistency. In the end it don’t bond properly. (But that can be because of me.) After Glueing I removed the proteced wrapping and there where streaks in the plastic. Coul dnot polish them out, they where IN the plastic. Well that was a waste of time.
Chloroform is not easily accessible here and expensive. (Due to the 'Don’t breath this" characteristic of cholorform.) But Perhaps for next try, I try to buy that.
For the rest, I finished with the last people, random stuff, and searchlights. I should spread some more random crap around. But perhaps some other day. I want to continue with my Star Trek Diorama.
Well. Here it is.
Always drop your boat horizontally.
I have no idea who she is, but she must be important to get such a welcome.
Crane 1
Never sail out without your barrels of grog.
Crane 2
Safety regulations were a lot different in those days.
Don’t drop your bucket mate.
Just go to the hardware store to get a new bucket. If it isn’t closed due to covid-19.
Chloroform? I have never heard of such a thing. Where are you in this world? If in the States you can contact a purveyor of Plastic for displays and they can probably sell you the right Glue. It is a liquid, It is NOT Chloroform either.
Secondly all the edges of your case have to be polished to a very clear finish. That’s so when the glue runs between the perfectly STRAIGHT and LEVEL pieces it dries clear and un-noticeable. To achieve this you NEED an 36" minimum straightedge to use in the shop. You cannot have any variations or it will not hold.
Although inconvienent I use “TAP” plastics in California. At least those employees and staff don’t have their head, - Well, You know. Here in TEXAS they don’t even have enough smarts to automatically know, for an outside display, because of the Sun, you use NON-Glare surface Lexan!
After seeing this at my Museum. When I was elected President I am very careful about buying Plastic Sheet… Plastic sheet ain’t cheap! Oh, Plastruct makes a good glue for that and so does Flexi-File Brand!
I’m from Holland. Cholorform is the wrong chemical. I meant: Dichloromethane. Most plastic welding glues are based on that. (I think.) And yeah the technique you described I wanted to use. Got my edged straight and polished as a mirror. But with that thick glue, the running-a-bead technique didn’t work.
In holland most professional stores recommend that acryfix. So far trusting ‘professionals’. I will google the ones you mentioned. Perhaps something comes up. Thnx!
Thank you for posting this build, so impressive! I have enjoyed your modeling skills and have really appreciated you showing what can be done with current 3D printers. You have a real eye for what looks interesting in a scene and every time I come back and look at these pictures I notice a new detail. Again thanks for sharing and well done!
Yeah it is a tad frustrating. Just when you think you are nearly done. Ah well, makes you grow I suppose.
I’ve bought some new acrylic cut to exact size for a good price. But because I’m quite busy lately with other stuff I did not have time to work on it. But I will document the results. (I’ve tested on test pieces a surprising familiar glue. (At least familiar to modellers.)
That’s a good idea! I Actually searched for it but I thought it was quite expensive (Here in Holland.) . And making myself would be cheaper. In hindsight I spend probably now more money because of all the failures. Let’s just say I’ve paid for the experience.
Hiding the joints is also a good idea I keep open. If it is necessary it will probably be brass. I’s what I’ve got. Stores are still semi closed due to covid.
That was amazing. The attention to detail was fantastic to say the least. You are a skilled and vary talented modeler. I am looking foreard to more of your works of art.
