Wouldn’t mind seeing a F-104 Starfighter done this way…
It isn’t just the old kits that have serious fit issues. I’m currently working on two aircraft kits - one from China (released 2015) and one from the Czech Republic (released 2011) - and both have nasty steps between major parts. And I’m pretty sure the Chinese kit, at least, was produced using the latest design and molding technologies.
Fantastic work going on this beast. The seam issue topside can be taken care of using PPP. Fill the gap with this putty and let it set 20 minutes then run a couple of water damp Q Tips to smooth out the join with no sanding. PPP can be easily removed with water even if cured.
As to the darker titanium paint, I would go with one of the Alclad or Extreme Metal shades.
For Titanium I mix a little black into Testors Steel (enamel color). It works pretty well for me.
Don – I’ll give your suggestion for titanium a try.
Plasticjunkie – I’ll buy some PPP and see how it works. I don’t have any of it in my bag of tricks.
Tom – It’s too bad that some model manufactures don’t take the extra time to make kits that fit together correctly. Tamyia, on the other hand, seems to always get their kits to fit together near perfect.
Kdryan – Following are some photos of a F-104 that I did a couple of years ago that is finished in Bare Metal Foil.




I have no idea how that plane was able to fly, considering its small wings.
[quote user=“JohnnyK”
I have no idea how that plane was able to fly, considering its small wings.
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I guess pure thrust otherwise it was a rock without it.
Not to get off track, the F-104 had wing loading of 105 lb/sf. Thats high, but not atypical for light supersonic aircraft. I think the F-15 has slightly higher.
The Starfighter did rely on complicated BCS systems, those are maintenance issues. And yes, it crashed a lot.
I guess pure thrust otherwise it was a rock without it.
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Just a place to hang the roll rate actuators and a couple of either fuel tanks or Sidwinders[:D]
This how I am going to make the stainless steel finish on the engine cowling. This will sound insane, but I stumbled upon this last year and it really works.

First I painted the cowling with Testors’ Metalizer Aluminum Plate. I’ll let that cure for a day then overpaint it with Testors’ Metalizer Titanium. After a day of curing, I will remove the titanium paint with enamel thinner. Nuts huh[:|] The enamel thinner removes the titanium paint but not the aluminum paint. Why? I have no idea. The result is that the aluminum paint ts stained a dull gray.
Insane, yes. Typical solution for a modeler, sure!
I should also mention that those elevons dropped in the vicinity of the outlets are SST as well.
This morning I painted over the Metalizer luminum with Metalizer Titanium.


The Testors’ Metalizer Titanium is a strange paint because it goes on very rough in texture. I’ll let it dry for a few hours and then remove it with enamel thinner.
Sir, as always. Your builds WIP are fantastic!
Your Friend’s, Ezra & Toshi



This is the result after I removed the Testors’ Metalizer Titanium with Testors’ Enamel Thinner. It looks pretty darn close to the real engine cowling in the bottom photo. I like the results. Next, I’ll add some washes of different colors. After that comes the Bare Metal foil. There are four engines, so this will take a bit of time. The Metalizer Aluminum under coat and the Metalizer Titanium are both lacquer paints, so I do not understand how an enamel thinner could dissolve a lacquer paint. Also, why did the enamel thinner dissolve the Titanium paint, but not the aluminum paint.
Excellent! Johnny did you see my comment abt the elevons? They probably fit into your production line for SST there.
Yes I did. I think that’s a great idea. Thanks!
Insane is an understatement but how in the heck that works is beyond me. The thinner should have lifted both colors but it didn’t. Well just learned another trick here. I must say it looks great!
JK you just gave me food for thought for my next nmf subject using your method to get a weathered looking finish.[^o)]
I am not really sure what happened with the two paints. I am going to paint a sample of Metalizer Aluminum next to a sample of Metalizer Titanium on my test hog. After they dry, I’ll wipe them with Testots’ enamel thinner and report back regarding my fingings.
G
Second time I have to post this. The previous one vanished after selecting “submit reply”. Don’t you love this “improved” site upgrade?
Please let us know your findings. I would try this now but we will be out of town for a couple of days. I plan to try your method on a test mule next week after returning.