I know this topic has been covered before but I cannot find it to print it off and maybe some fresh ideas might come out. Filling gaps is a huge problem for me. I try gap filling super glue with accelerator and it becomes to hard to quick, and squadron green putty never seems to stick. I have not tried millput putty yet. What is the recommended grit for gaps? Also has anyone tried light weight spackling compound? It was great on model r/c airplanes. I am not sure if it will stick tp the smooth plastic or not. I will have to try it and back to everyone.
Hey Snoopy,
The trick I found for super glue is to use a very coarse grade to “break” the surface of the glue first. I do this lightly being careful not to roughen up the kit in the process and then I use a medium and fine grade sanding stick to finish off with. If you’re starting with a medium grade it can take forever to sand it. I also have some small needle files that will cut right through it.
Spackling compound might work too, just be careful and test it on scrap to make sure it doesn’t have any harsh solvents that don’t play well with styrene. [:p]
Eric
Snoopy,
This page on the Aircraft Resource Center web site has great information on filling:
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/TnT_Archives/Filling.htm
I use the Testors contour putty for most of my filling. I’ll also use White Out (typewriter correction fluid) on very small gaps. When I use the Testors putty, I usually wipe away the excess with nail polish remover (as shown in the article on filling without sanding). I usually sand the filled seam a bit anyway with very light grit sandpaper.
Regards,
-Drew
MIlliput will only work in areas where you already have a strong joint. Milliput, unlike liquid glue and normal modeling putties, does not melt the plastic it is applied on, and therefore does not re-create a strong, continuous joint. It simply fills it. Any pressure applied top a weak joint filled in with Milliput will result in cracked Milliput… and a fine hairline crack to fill in… (very hard!). Your best bet would be to use normal modeling putties, and the nail polish remover technique, to fill in normal sized gaps, and limit the amount of sanding to do. I also use a lot of superglue/accelerator to fill in gaps, and provided you sand it down straight away, it is not that hard. The more you wait, the harder the glue becomes though. Huge gaps should probably be filled first with scraps of plastic with some liquid glue, then covered either by Miliput, superglue or putty.
Thanks for that link lufberry,
I always get a chunky surface using squadron white, i’ll definately get some fingernail polish
On very small, tight cracks, I sometimes just open the crack enough to put a bead of super glue (cheap dollar store kind-big lots is best) on the joint, connect the parts, wipe the excess immediately, and then rock the parts back and forth, the capilliary action sucks the glue into the seam. Wipe it again before the super glue hardens. If it does, the corner of a dremel 600 grit sanding drum cuts it nicely, but be careful
I like to use “Bondo glazing and spot putty”, the kind in the tube. Sounds weird but it adhears good, sands good and smooth, dries quickly. And is cheap and can be bought at any auto parts store.