OK everyone,
on recomendations by alot of you i have now bought some CA glue and even bought Ca glue Remover since knowing myslef I’m sure I will need it. So now what are recomendations on how to use it. Should I buy one of those glass applicators? Do i go on the same premise that you need to glue before painting? I’ve heard that some people will put there PE parts on after painting so that is why I am not sure. So if any of you have recomendations and especially any warnings I would be much obliged.
Mark
I use ambroid (I really like it when I can find it), plasti-struct or tenex-7 for liquid(90% of my choures). I’ll use testors gel when I want something to stay put while I reach for the liquid and brush. I have no preference for CA tho I got a big bottle of a medium set gap filler that works real well.
Testors tube glue, because it sets slowly and smells so good. [:p] (Just kidding kiddies, don’t sniff the glue!) [xx(] It sets slowly so I can pull apart my mistakes. [:)]
Testor’s and Tenax-7R for most work. I like “Hot Stuff” CA especially their gap filling.
I use many of the glues mentioned depending on the need. Gel CA, White glue, liquid, regular CA and tube cement. I like options.
I used to use Testors regular cement in the tube, but I remember sometimes it would “string” when you pull it away. That used to really annoy me. So I was looking today at the LHS, saw some liquid cement, but was surprised at it’s consistency. It was rather thin, more like water almost. Is that normal?
Liquid Testor’s Glue w/brush, Krystal Kleer for clear parts and for accessories for the car body (won’t mess up the paint when I mess up), and super glue when I’m in a hurry.
I use Testors model master glue. I will be trying for the first time a CA glue IC-2000 from hobbytown USA.
mark956
Ok heres the list of glues I use:
Testors orange tube, would have to say almost never I just dont like it seems to go every where I dont want it and damages parts.
Testors in black squeeze,bottle rarely anymore.
Testors Model master CA and Zap A Gap, I use which ever is closest at the time for 99% of all glue applications except for anything with a seem or clear parts.
Testors liquid in bottle with brush, I use it for all seems simply brush on single coat on both sides then add a drop of CA every couple of inches and I have a rock solid bond in no time, just have to dry fit, dry fit, then dry fit once more.
Testors clear parts glue in squeeze bottle, for all clear parts and temp bonds.
Plastruct for any plastic (applied with a thin piece of wire), superglue (CA) for any multimedia (applied straight from the nozzle) and Krystal Kleer for all windows , headlights (applied with a thin piece of wire). Works perfectly.
I use Loctite gel for most things, TenX-7R for large plastic seams and for getting rid of injection marks (try it, spread it on with a micro brush, rewet the brush and push down harder the second time - the pin mark disappears into the adjacent plastic! no sanding required (got that tip from stinger 1051)) testers liquid glue (with the brush) to set up indie track links and white glue for clear parts. Basicly if it sticks, I’ll use it! (I have yet to try bubblegum though)
I never had good luck with Testors liquid cement. I use to use Weld On liquid but cannot find it anymore. Started using Tennex but even that is getting hard to find. Tried the Ambroid “non-toxic” liquid cement but it was crap, seems the stuff that caused the toxic fumes also bonded the plastic. I still like the old Testors tube cement and a toothpick. I also use Goldberg Jet thin, medium, and heavy CA. Oh, and Elmers white glue.
Scott
Scott:
If you are having trouble finding Tenax 7R try Great Hobbies web site. They mail order everywhere.
Regards,
Bruce
When working with styrene, I use the solvent MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) straight out of the can. The only other ‘glue’ I use is CA and this is with most reluctance. Only when dealing with other materials do I use super glue. I hate the stuff!
Epoxy has it’s place too, but MEK is my favorite.
I prefer Testors liquid cement for most applications. I find it is less brittle than CA.
I use Testors gel cement for some larger parts where there may be larger gaps or where a little extra stenght is needed.
For resin or metal parts, parts that need some extra stiffening or for filling gaps, I use Zap-A-Gap CA.
Finally, I use Elmers white glue for canopies and some small photo-etched parts.
Yes that is normal. The best way I have found to apply liquid cement is to put the two parts together then use a find tipped paint brush (I have one specificaly for the job) dip it in the cement and then apply it to the seems. The capilary action pulls the cement into the seem and joins the parts. It makes building large parts easy if they fit well enough. Just start at one end of wing or fuselage, apply a little, while you hold that spot together to dry move down a few cm and add some more… just keep working until the whole thing is bonded together. No worrying about getting the parts togther before the glue dires or sticking them togther in the wrong orientation. The parts are the way you want them before you even touch the glue!
Sometimes I use a little CA in spots to strengthen the seems, but only where needed. Problem with this method comes when the parts don’t fit right… then it is time for some tougher stuff like the gel or CA.
Tamiya extra thin for me. Especially because of the fine brush. It makes it much more possible to not damage the surrounding plastic with cement.
Just my two cent’s worth. Like life, it usually takes several different techniques to accomplish a job.
My basic glue is Pleximent (methylene chloride). Its the same thing as IPS Weld-On #3. I used to be able to buy it in qt cans (about a 3-year supply with care) but recently found out it is only sold in gallon cans now. Works great, check out the plastic supplies section of your Yellow pages.
For resins and PE I use CA (both liquid & gell) and for canopies and windows I use Micro Klear.
scottrc
If you can get over to Topeka, check with Globe plastics. They can give you the name and address of the local outlet that can supply you with Pleximent. (I can’t remember the name of the local outlet off the top of my head, just remember its out on west 6th street a couple of blocks west of the hospital)
I use several types, depends on what I’m building or the parts being added. Testors in the tube, I still use it for some things. I use liquid, CA , white glue, and once in a while 5 min. epoxy.
For most plastic construction I will use Testors in the funny bottle and Testors tube. I’m thinking of trying out Tenax.
For some applications I use Zap CA.
When I want a strong bond, or for large joints I’ll often use Epoxy.
DJ