I’m new around here so please forgive if this is not news to the old hands.
In my quest for an ideal canopy mask to replace the Bare Metal Foil I’ve used in the past. I believe I have stumbled on to something- Tattooing mask, a.k.a. “Frisket Tape” that tattoo artists and other airbrush artists use. It’s clear, very thin, vinyl-like, very pliable with a low, residue-free tack and cuts very easily and cleanly with very little pressure. Much easier to cut a clean edge than Tamiya tape because it doesn’t have the resistance that any paper type of mask has. It can be stretched and covers rounded surfaces beautifully. Comes off perfectly clean with no residue. I especially like that it’s clear and you can easily see through to cut it precisely. You can also draw on it to form your own stencils or masks and cut them out or burn them in a stencil burner.
I found a roll in the best hobby shop of S. Florida, but it’s also available at art supply retailers like: www.dixieart.com
Yep, that is some great stuff Mark! I have used it in the past for stencil masks. Have never tried it on a canopy though, but now I think I may! Thanks for sharing. [tup]
Just one thing I thought of and didn’t ask the guy at Dixieart but should of. How does it hold up with solvent based paints i.e. enamels and laquers? It does appear to be a type of ultra-thin vinyl which might melt. I haven’t actually tried it yet but just played with on an old canopy last night. Will report back on that.
I used frisket when masking some 1/72 P2V-7s with good results using ModelMaster enamels. However, I found it to be too stiff for compound curves, and too thick to cut in place. I had to trace the edge on tape then overlay the fisket on a light table to cut it. I’m surprised it would work for canopies. I’m more comfortable with Bare Metal Foil, as it is so delicate that you can scribe it in place with almost no pressure on the knife blade, thus avoiding scoring the canopy itself.
I don’t know but I was able to mask a 1/72 F-16 canopy with it. I used multiple strips rather than one piece but I usually do that with BFM anyway.
I’ve always used BMF for canopies, wheel hubs and anything requiring exacting masking. But it leaves glue residue which is a bear to clean up especially when it’s on unvarnished paint. Someone mentioned using nail polish remover (i.e.- mild acetone) to clean it up as it wouldn’t damage enamel paints. Can that be right since nail polish is…paint and enamel at that, I believe?
Last night I tried to mask some wheels with BFM but the glue seems to be defunct. Even on a new package I bought. My bench is in my garage and it’s now approaching 95 degrees daily here. Has BFM reduced the glue or can it be the heat ruining it?
Goo-Gone on a Q-tip removes the glue residue without damaging paint or Future. It’s a citrus based product available at hardware stores.
Nail polish remover is a diluted acetone with fragrances and skin conditioners, if I recall corrrectly. I wouldn’t trust it on paint or even styrene.
I wouldn’t rule out heat as the culprit for the BMF adhesive problem. I keep mine in the house and only take it into the garage here in Phoenix when it’s attached to a model and ready to paint.
Wow, Phoenix, guess you know a thing or two about heat. But, hey, we still got ‘ya beat cause as the old saw goes, “It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity” (riiiiight) and we got plenty of that at 10 miles from the ocean, 10 miles from Lake Okeechobee and 10’ elevation. Still, somehow I think 110-115 degrees is still pretty darned hot!
Going to a regional model show/contest in Orlando this Sat. Will get some more BFM, keep it indoors and see if it helps.
