Well any kits really, I have tried every type of putty you can think of to fill these, squadron, bondo, ackro green(misspelled) Mr surfacer, tamiya, gap filling super glue, vallejo, the only thing that works for me is using AVES, and thats a pain in the butt to have to mix it and wait the 24 hours, these tubed putties fill most of the hole but there is still an indentation, and no matter how much putty I put on it, it still leaves a slight sink mark, any one have any suggestions??
I primarily use bondo. Maybe you need to wait longer for your putty to dry/cure completely before you begin sanding? Maybe also be careful that in sanding, you don’t press into the depression?
I’m not really sure, I have waited 24 hours with all of these putties before, but somehow no matter how lightly I sand it leaves an indentation.
I agree w/Roy. Any of the filler putties you listed should work fine (I like Squadron Green). Wait for it to harden well and use a sanding stick or sanding block, not just a sheet of sandpaper and you hands and it should sand flat and fill the pin mark nicely.
I’d recomend Games Workshop Green Stuff putty… I think that works wonders!
Thanks for the advice guys!!
What I generally do is to slightly overfill the sink mark, then sand the putty or bondo down to the surface.
That way you dont have to use multiple applications, or worry about shrinking.
Ditto to all the above. Using a sanding stick is important. If after using putty there is still a slight intentation (really deep marks) I use a drop of Mr Surfacer on top of the dry putty.
Rounds Complete!!
I use Gunze surfacer on small and not very deep pin marks and Tamiya putty for worst cases. After about two days of drying I sand it smooth. Because the plastic surface texture is different from the filler material you can still see the mark. When you paint them over, the filler absorb more paint than the plastic so you can still see the mark. Before I paint, I brush them over with liquid plastic cement and when completely dry sand it smooth again. Works or me!
If I may Hi-Jack this just a little bit…
I have noticed lately that the “Bondo Red Putty” that I used to use all the time has become “Junk!”
Bought new it comes out “Thinner?” first. And no matter how much you “Kneed” the tube,I just can’t seem to get the putty without thinner running all over the place. I’ve never had this problem before. I have used it in the past with perfect results!
And “Green Putty” by MMD,Well that seems to be just the opposite? “Stiff and hard to spread thin”?
I remember a long time ago Hearing about an Auto-Body filler “Blue Majic” or something like that? Smooths out good,dries hard and sands wonderful!
Does any one remember it?
And always a good bet…Mr.Surfacer! What amazing stuff!
Jeff
Hi Cody: I’m still on my first Bondo tube. I had the runny stuff at the beginning as well. I guess it al ran out because it now comes out at a good consistency. My red stuff is all over my projects!
I’ve had great luck putting in a thin punched out piece of styrene made from my Historex punch set into the EJM. Seems to be the perfect size of one of the bits and combined with a little more than required liquid cement, fills in perfectly and sands flush without ever having to worry about shrinkage. [:I]
Great ideas guys, I’ll give them a try one at a time, Hey Minimortar where can I pick up the historex punch set from?
Typically I use super-glue. I somewhat overfill the ejector pin depression, not letting it spill outside, so that the surface tension allows it to build into a slight bump. When I sand I always use a sanding stick with light pressure.