Eduard 1/48 FW-190A5 “Weekender”
OOB:
Xtracrylic, Gunze Mr. Hobby, Polly Scale, Testors MM, Vallejo Model Color
This is my fourth 48 scale aircraft - three have been made by Eduard. (P-39Q and LA-7 are around somewhere.) Obviously four models doesn’t make me an expert, but I am forming an opinion of Eduard and of serious aircraft modeling.
Eduard has developed a good reputation for value, accuracy, good detail and neat perks like cockpit masks and PE. Part count is pretty high for a plane too. Sounds good. They’re also extremely demanding. I don’t know what it is about Eastern European kits, but if there is an indirect way of doing something when a direct way is available, they’ll take the hard way. It’s no accident that Eduard fans tend to be good modelers. Someone down the food chain could really have his hands full. (Must say that both the others were easier builds than this one - I’d even say the P39 was pretty direct.) The idea here was to give the modeler a full engine and a gun bay. For reasons best left to Eduard, the engine is not meant to be revealed - the gun bay is. Phil Foley on ProModeller did some simple surgery to show the engine and left the guns open too. I wanted it buttoned. I don’t have a 48 scale FW-190 and it’s a drop-dead lovely plane. I wanted this one with the cleanest possible lines - no drop tanks/bombs, closed cockpit and certainly no engine. To give the modeler the detail needed Eduard came up with a very complex set of frames inside the fuselage and between the wings. If assembled exactly correctly, things will come together. (Or maybe not. I do not think the wings could be assembled without major surgery to the parts required. Even Phil Foley described that part of the build as “something of a nightmare.”) I moved slowly and dry-fit every major piece. The cockpit went in with little trouble. But the trouble with Eduard’s design is that if you make a mistake in step 3, you might get kicked in the shin on step 10. In other words, everything can look right, but still be off. And not being an expert, I was off. Now, had I decided to leave the gun bay open, there would have been no problem. Had I opened the engine, there would have been no problem. (Except for the very intricate exhaust - absolutely bewildering.) Trying to button everything up? Not a chance. Not until I used my Dremel with it’s coarsest grinder and cut hunks out of the gun bay and exhaust. Ironically, the engine, at the end of all of this framework, fit in nicely. Eventually, I got everything together: the landing gear was nicely done.
No neat LW greays and blues here. The “Weekender” came with an Eastern Front camo pattern unlike any I’d ever seen. It was over my head realistically, but I decided to try it anyway. (Going to present this kit along with a LA-5 in the Eastern Front Group Build, so I wanted a plane ready to fly over Kursk - that meant some kind of green.) What made it tough was that the tan color is not an integral part of the camo, but was painted over the standard two green upper surface. (Standard light blue underneath.) That meant a good part of the paint job was really a kind of mottle. So if there tan looks feathered over the greens, it’s supposed to.
You might have noticed that there are lots of paint brands employed. I’ve decided that I like modeling and that I need to learn paints. So I’ve collected Vallejo, Xtracrylix, to go along with my lovely Polly Scale. Naturally, I’ve got 20 jars of Tamiya, and several Gunze Mr. Color: but I wanted to try these others. Included were some Mr. Hobby Gunze, which are different paints indeed. I wasn’t sure what to do about the RLM, so I got RLM 70, 71 and 75 (dark green, black green, light blue) from Model Master. I checked a lot of colors and went with Mr. Hobby dark green, Xtracrylix green (which is RLM 65 I think) and kept the MM light blue. For the tan, I used Vallejo Model Color Desert Sand. I should note briefly that I made extensive use of artist acrylic mediums. More on this after my next kit which I’m going to try entirely with artist acrylics. For the moment, let me say that if you mess with the chemistry of the paint things happen. I put some hardener and extender in MM RLM 75 and the finish was rock hard - no chance of anything pulling off. Indeed, every paint laid down beautifully. Zero problems with clogging even with the tan which was done at very low PSI. The only down side was that you got a satin finish across the board - almost looked like enamel. But after using Tamiya flat base and Future at 3:1 I came out with a very flat finish. That was good because the colors on the plane were in too great of a contrast and needed toning down. Prior to weathering, I hand painted a couple of coats of Future and had what I thought was a nice smooth finish. Not sure if it was my experimenting, or bad luck - I did have trouble with Eduard’s normally terrific decals. (Wrecked a couple. The replacement decals worked very well. Not sure what went wrong. Next time I’m going to give the decal area a going over with 4000 grit sanding sponge - like you would with Alclad.)
I simplified weathering. It has passed my mind that there may be too much technique for its own sake on this subject. Normally, I would have been pulling out oil (or enamel) filters, washes, dry brushing and all followed by pigments. Instead, I did what some people do on ProModeller. First post shaded with Polly Scale Grimy Black (the two greatest colors on earth are made by Polly Scale - Grimy Black and Engine Black). That’s aggressive air brushing for yours truly, but I think it more or less worked. Then I used ProModeller dark and light washes. They’re a kind of water based pigment wash. Wish I’d had black. I’ve used them before, but only in “secondary theaters.” Found that they worked very well at giving a nice “well used” look to a fighter was I’m mentally sending to a dirt strip near Kursk. I supplemented it with Prisomacolor Verithin pencils for enhanced panel lines and a little chipping. Also used a little Doc Martins pigments to further tone down the differences between greens. But basically the Wash was it. It worked nicely and saved me at least a day of my life. I chickened out at giving the model a quick final blast of thin, dark colors for exhaust etc: settled for a little Tamiya weathering kit soot.
Here you go:





