Eduard canopy masks?

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

I have the Revell A400 Grizzly in 1/72 scale coming up.

Have any of you used the pre-cut Eduard canopy masks, and do they work well?

I’ve never used them before in all the years.

Thanks for opinions

2

They work perfect. Buy as many sets as you can and don’t look back.

3

Yes they work well with patience and practice,not automatic for sure.

4

Its going to cost me around $16 bucks delivered for this set, which is not cheap, so I’m hoping it would be more automatic than the tedium of cutting custom masks at this scale, and provide a better result.

Also I’m presuming you can burnish the masks with a toothpick without destroying them? Then get them off without scratching the canopy.

Thanks for the input.

5

Yes, they do work quite well, a bit of exceptional care is needed when placing to ensure accurate positioning, but the practice becomes intuitive very quickly. I liku’m.

But, I also am used to just using thinly sliced bits of tape, trimmed to size, good way to pass the time in the evening, (beats TV,) and is a lot less expensive with same results, even more satisfaction. Montex works well for me too.

Patrick

6

They are well worth any price if you ask me. Burnish down with a toothpick. They come off very easy and leave no residue.

7

Another tip- after you burnish them in place, lightly brush a line of future / pledge / clear acrylic along all the edges, to prevent any paint seepage under the masks. Works very well.

8

Thanks Guys,

I usually will future a canopy before masking either because the mold line has been sanded out or in the case of the A400 just to get a more realistic glass-like look.

So once I set the Eduard masks after doing this…If I hand paint a small line of future to seal the masks (sounds like good idea)…won’t that make removing them very difficult if not near impossible?

9

You know, to each his own, but if you ask me, don’t seal the mask with future. It does nothing for you, except make a mess. No need to seal the mask edges down. Just burnish them down well, then lightly airbrush the color on.

10

I second Nathan’s post, the masks make for a very tight and well sealed edge if burnished down. I tried the Pledge bead, it MOSTLY worked as intended, but in places the pledge stayed on the paint and pulled away from the tape. I had to carefully slice along where the edge was, to cut away the remaining Pledge overlay. It turned out OK, but not great, looked a bit rough up close.

Maybe I didn’t do it as well as others, they seem to have good results with the pledge bead, but I have yet to have a mask leak anything under the edge.

Patrick