Good day to all. heres another one for you.a small servey. What do you preffer. Rattel can or air brush for spraying dull coat or gloss coat. And what would be the differance. This is my first build using an air brush and in the baby steps stage. Its a huge model (F-105 1/32) so I need to cover a lot of plastic. Years ago, all I used was rattle cans, and the work often turned out pritty good. But I`ve been away quite a while. So what do you guys(and gals) think??
I’d say airbrush. Much more controled, and the solevents in dullcote and eat through and plastic. The spray can will allow a coat that is too heavy, whih cause it to pool and mar the finish. If you’re careful however, ethier will work.
edit: By dullcote I am refering to Testor’s Dullcote, which is a lacquer. That’s what I believe he is talking about.
Well, the answer is, “yes”, for me.
I’ve used both rattle cans and air brush with pretty good success. I typically build 1/35 armor, and I use a spray can to flatten the paint on the entire kit. But here comes the fun part. For airbrush use, I spray the rattle can into a small plastic container, then pour the contents into my color cup and spray. Same results but more control.
For small add-on parts such as bed rolls, mirrors, pioneer tools, etc., I’ll do the same with the rattle can into the plastic container, then use a 1/0 or smaller paint brush dipped into the liquid to flatten those last glue joints so they aren’t so shiny.
Make sure you have plenty of good ventilation if you’re spraying lacquers (or any organic solvent-based product).
Bottom line: There are as many ways to do this as there are forum members.
You’re mileage may vary.
Gip Winecoff
Airbrush for me. Dull coat: I’m using “Vallejo matt coat for airbrush”. Pre-thinned, very easy to spray, easier than any color, just keep an eye on the tip of the needle. Rather hard to make a mess of. Relatively strong.
For gloss coat: Future floor polish through airbrush. 
Very cheap, very clear, quite gloss, very strong, compared to others, no need to thin, ample opportunity for testing, since it’s so cheap, the only way to make a mess of is is to put so much of it in one place that it will run - don’t do it… But even that can be fixed relatively easy. Some people have troubles with thinkness of a layer, though - you need a bit of practice here.
For gloss its either Future or Polyscale.
For dead flat either Dullcote or Polyscale.
For something in between and I chose to use enamel, I use SnJ Spray Metal Clear Metal. It leave a Satin/Matt finish. It has the same sheen as the other Spray Metal colors.
Good day Gerald. Would the metal clear metal be authentic for war tonn Vie Nam era fighters, or still a little too shiny? Its for my F105, a work hourse.
Gerald, are you going to answer? How about anyone else?
I would use Polly Scale flat finish as that is all I use.
Thanks mike.Is that acrylic? I found I have better luck with acrylics, but have used enamels
Wow! I figured that you would use Badger’s flat clear in their Modelflex series[swg]
Yes, Polly Scale flat clear is an acrylic.
Wise guy eh? 
I am not a big fan of Badger’s paints. They are pretty good but I think others are better.